ChoonDoode

As said above, it must be sun degradation. My driver's side ones needed to be compounded and polished a few weeks ago to try and improve their appearance. They've been waxed as well just to try and keep them in good nick. Despite not driving as often, I'm still washing the car quite often. Foamed and hand washed on each occasion.

Out of interest, just because I've googled Ecomax and wasn't really sure which one it was, how much is said product and what's the quantity needed for a tank?

I know. The online Karen's appear to be up for an E10 bashing sesh. I'd be interested to see what the difference (if any) was to my bike, but it's mapped for 98+ RON

'It's quite a drop': Drivers complain over E10 fuel changes as efficiency 'plummets That's just come up as a news article on my phone's suggested topics.

oh aye, the gendarme will be waiting just as you're coming out the chunnel Calais exit with their ticket book in one hand and their gun in the other

@Kenai yeah sound. I assumed it would was a thing for the 71 plate cars

BS AU 145e .........and from what I can gather, it's to ensure ANPR cameras (fixed and mobile) are able to read the plates. However, I would hope we're not all expected to have to go and buy a new plate. Can't see anywhere saying that.

As far as I'm aware it does have a slightly higher cetane rating, about 2-3 more. But, this depends on who you listen to. All I am able to gather is it's able to do a more complete combustion due to said snake oil additives, thus meaning a potential for the DPF to have to do less work. That's the theory Yes I pay for my own fuels. I'm more than happy to put V Power diesel in my car because of those snake oil properties. I'd sooner do that than try to mess about mixing in quantities of additives. When I had my tranny van and I was up and down the country working away, I was forced to use BP ultimate diesel (much to fleet's dismay) as the normal diesel wasn't working. Anyroad, after probably around 50 miles, you could see the odd puff of visible fumes on take off if you did a little traffic light GP. I would say it did drive better, albeit is a t280 swb mid roof tranny. I am convinced it did clean out some of the 'crap' and make it drive better. This was before I took ownership of my VRS TDI. So when I started driving it, I was more than happy to pay the, call it, £7 a tank premium. But we're digressing from the OP's original point

🥱 yeah alright. You've not understood what I was saying. But we'll leave it there eh? do you really notice the different with standard fuel when you add things like EcoMax? I assume it's a bit more of an improvement than adding something like Redex power booster.

I was meaning in the price per litre, not price per tank

How much!!!! God, I know things are a bit more expensive down Saff, but I filled up with V Power diesel last week and it was only £1.48. That's always a few pence dearer than the equivalent petrol V Power. This is a bit of a toss up of things now. Do people wish to pay for the 'standard' e10 fuel, get slightly less power and slightly less MPG. Or, pay for the 'Ultra' E5 and get better power and more MPG, plus with the added benefits of snake oil has to offer. We would struggle to do it in real world conditions, but I'd be interested to see what the mileage from a tank was and the performance on a dyno if we compared E5 95 RON vs E10 95 RON and E5 98 RON.

Yeah apologies, getting my values mixed up. But as you say, the average motorist won't notice. The petrol companies have only told people to cover themselves for when someone fills up their old 2 stroke bike or old car and it causes fuel system trouble

You will get less MPG from E10. It's not as energy dense as E5, so more fuel will be used for the same power. Can't remember the figures of the top of my head, E10 is about 7.5% less energy rich than E5. All the more reason to fill up with V Power

I unzip the folder and copy all what was in there on my SD card. Mine's an MIB2, but I just copy over the MIB1 stuff as well. The headunit knows what it needs with whatever's on there

Just glad mines a normal fob and not a Kessy one. They can sometimes seem to be a bit more problematic.

Quick update on this. So I was able to 'borrow' a 2032 battery from an old motherboard I had laying around and the fob was still not working. That battery was pushing out 3.05v, so I was confident that was working. Back to the fob. I'd already tried 'bending' the contacts, but I've used a Dremel polishing bit just to remove a bit of surface on both the positive and negative contacts and hey presto, jobs a good un. I'd assume because the battery had been out for a couple of weeks was the reason I needed to resync it with the car. Just a bit baffling having to go through that rigmarole.

I've got the vario floor in mine, and I use it to keep emergency stuff in the car without getting in the way of other things I'd need to throw in the boot. I've comfortably got an umbrella, first aid kit, compressor, tow rope, a big waterproof coat and matching trousers, a few travel johns and a few non perishable food items (the last two come in handy once when I got stuck on the not so smart section of the M6) All of the bits are held in place with the boot cargo nets. If I didn't have the vario floor, I probably would just have a curver box of some descript.

I've got Duracell batteries. The other fob has one in and it likes that. Don't honestly know what the score is. I've ensured the contacts are touching it. So I'm at a loss at the mo

No it's just a normal key. I don't trust keyless entry. Tried 3, which includes the original dying one. The battery which is currently in the working fob was the first one I tried in the duff fob. This is working fine and no error messages come up on the dash

I had my cambelt changed May this year. It was five years old but nowhere near the expected mileage. The thing to bear in mind is whilst the belt may not have done the mileage, it will still have been subject to drying out, hot and cold weather and other things which will affect it's strength. I will admit, I was somewhat peeved getting it done, but I'd be on the ceiling if the cambelt had snapped and bent all the valves!!!

Hmmm, I've checked the contacts. They do seem to be fitting around the battery ok. Just a bit annoying as it was a case of it worked with the old battery and then stops with the new one in.

Morning all, Searching around on previous threads hasn't enlightened me as to what the fault may be.... Long story short, I got in the car the other Thursday and a message popped up on the dash saying change key battery. Not a worry as I've already done it before because the key which I'm using is the 2nd key because I changed the battery on the 1st key about a year ago. I was using the 2nd key because I didn't want to get stuck somewhere if the key stopped working. Even though the 1st key was back working, I'd just carried on using the 2nd key. I had ordered a few 2025 batteries this time just so I've one or two pair and with the bank holiday, they've not long come. New battery prepped, cover off, old battery out, new one in and cover back on. SORTED. Or maybe not.......... The light isn't lighting up on the fob (it was previously) and it's not doing anything to the central locking. I've checked this new battery in the working fob and all is fine, so it's not the battery. The handbook says about having to sync the battery by pressing a button on the fob and unlocking the car with the door lock, but I'd be expecting the fob to still have a light on when I press a button sync'd or not. Can someone think of what's gone wrong in this instance? thanks

I'm generally getting around an average 45mpg with an average 450 miles between fills up. That's coming from the majority of town driving with the odd motorway commute. Best recent journey average mpg (54mpg) was a trip to the Lakes, but I think that may have had something to do with the M6 being mainly at 50 speeds. I've got my mpg gauge calibrated as best I can through VCDS, so the readings are usually +/- 1mpg.

IIRC the ECU is programmed in Europe to expect either 95 or 98 RON fuel. The 98 RON fuel will ultimately perform that bit better. Whether you'd notice it in day to day driving.......... I doubt very much. My motorbike, however, is set for 98 RON all the time. Put 95 RON into it and you are able to notice a change in the engine. My VRS is a diesel and the only reason I put V Power in over standard diesel is for all the special, deep cleaning snake oil characteristics Shell has been able to brainwash into me

what mileage is your car and whats the DPF ash level at?