ChoonDoode

yeah, once you were moving it was fine and the vibrations blended into the normal driving ones. Come to a stop or drive slowly and it was unbearable. It was 'fine' to a point when I first installed it because of lockdown and I was only using the car every so often. Once it was lifted and I was back using the car more regularly, it was time to get rid. One of the worst things I've ever done to any of my cars

I'd be questioning why they're so cheap. £300 seems worryingly inexpensive for coilovers, even entry level ones.

considering you've gone to the trouble of pulling the engine out, I'd be replacing quite a few parts. As long as it doesn't cost stupid money. If there is an issue with the rings, are the bores damaged in any way?

hmmm looks good that dongle. I may consider getting something like that as my S22 with it's case it sticking out of the gap by the socket and I keep knocking the USB cable whenever I change gear. I may look to get a cradle with a QI charger, just so on longer journeys my phone doesn't run out of juice.

the coding for the reverse drop mirror is on the VCDS coding page on this forum. See the pinned thread

I've coded in the mirror dip on my car without the memory seats and 9 times out of 10, it returns back to where I was. Then if it doesn't, it's only a nudge on the adjuster to put it back. Minor issue to overcome compared to having to pay for leccy seats just to have got the function.

do you feel the ride is that bad on the 18's? If you were on the 19's I'd understand, because the rubber band tyres on those are a bit too severe for our roads. I did notice the difference in bumps when I changed to pilot sport 4 tyres. They just feel a bit forgiving over the slight imperfections. I'm waiting for delivery of KW V3 coilovers, just so I'm able to dial in the suspension to how I want it. The main thing I'm wanting to sort out is the lurch backwards on acceleration, certainly from a standing start.

with your car being a 2020 model, wouldn't it have been a warranty job?

that was why I went to Darkside. Before they started on the car, they went out on a test drive with VCDS plugged in to give my car a check over. Albeit the horsepower wasn't as high as what I was expecting, the car drives better now. Awesome is close to me, but I was wanting a bespoke map, rather than a 'flash and forget' type of map. They do appear to do such a remap type, but I was put off by them not appearing to do before and after dyno, unless there's an issue with your car.

so an update. My car went into Darkside on Wednesday morning and returned yesterday afternoon all sorted. Remap has all been sorted. Slightly less hp than I was expecting with a peak of 205.8, but the torque is still a vast improvement at 350ftlb's. It just feels so much more responsive no matter what gear you're in. And unlike when I had the DTUK box on, it just feels nice and progressive, rather than a lump of power all of a sudden. I went round the block just to make sure I was happy with everything and did a quick 0-60 and it came back 7.59 seconds. It was a bit slippy due to the conditions (TC kicked in in 1st and 2nd), but that it still a noticeable improvement over stock. I know it's not a record breaker, but I'm happy with that. The clutch line does make the pedal feel better. I did feel the pedal was a bit spongy beforehand, but that could be a combination of a rubber line and older fluid. I certainly can notice the difference with the brake lines. Only need to touch the pedal for the brakes to start coming on. In additional to the pre planned work, because of a bit of Christmas overtime, I had a clubsport rear anti roll bar fitted with powerflex bushers and I was going to be having a set of KW V3 coilovers, but KW couldn't have them sorted in time for this appointment (no biggie, was chancing my luck). Due to the cold weather, I've not been able to 'rag' the car around bends too fast, but even at moderate speeds you can tell the back end is tighter. I'll be reporting back once I've got the coilovers fitted.

don't think it would, because after so long, the canbus disables the power to it after so long. Also, you're limited to the rate of charge which can be provided into the circuit without causing a problem. Using a proper battery conditioner is more recommended for the upkeep of batteries (it can charge and monitor the loss to work out the battery's health), if you think your battery is iffy, you'd be better off getting a replacement battery, rather than trying to fiddle out to get it back going again

if you're planning on working on your car (servicing, upgrading parts or general 'fiddling about') then getting a ross tech lead for VCDS or the equivalent OBD eleven type tool, it may be worth it. If you're just wanting to give the car a once over, make sure it's OK and that's about it, you may be better checking the VCDS Owners page and ask someone on there to assist you.

spend a bit of money on cleaning products and keep your car well protected over the winter period. Bilt Hamber products are my favourite. Bit costly, but worth the money I feel

a good shout would be to get a set of 18 inch alloys (which I assume would still fit the challenge), get a set of colder weather orientated tyres and use those over the cooler periods. 225/40/R18 tyres are going to be noticeably cheaper than 225/35/R19 tyres, especially the cold weather variants.

Traction control quite often in the snow can be a pain in the neck. It's fine when you're on mainly level ground to keep you from wheelspinning when you're moving / moving away. However, at the slightest of gradients, it cuts the power too much and you're left to slow down / at a standstill. When I was in my tranny van, I used to turn the traction control off, but I've always found it best to have the ESC in sport if ever I've encountered snow in my car. It gives you that bit of wheelspin to get you moving, but doesn't cut in too quick. It also means you've still got the stability control in the background to assist with slides. The last time it snowed bad in my neck o' the woods, I did go out onto the ungritted back roads, with all the electronics turned off and had tons of fun with handbrake turns, Scandinavian flicks and getting lift off oversteer. That was when I had the god awful Bridgestone Potenzas (they really are a dry summer tyre)

Don't know whether a full size one would fit under the boot floor. It may do if you have a variable floor. I've used my space saver twice and for less than 10 miles each time. Only ever been used to limp to the garage to get a puncture repaired.

yeah, that's the one

my VRS has the 312mm brakes and an 18" spare. Must just be the default spare choice for any of the VRS models

yeah MY16 have 312mm front discs and the ones before did come with the 340mm. the standard cars have 272mm fronts, and that's what the 16 inch spare is for

the 18 inch space saver is the one for the VRS's. Have a scout on ebay, you can normally find what you need on there along with the factory insert with the tooling. Think the only thing you may need to source would be locking in screw for the wheel in the boot

Quick update on how I'm finding the new intake. Again, yesterday and today I've been using the car quite a bit on my final coupe of days on leave for shopping. I've driven around 75 miles and I'm not finding the additional whooshing to be an issue. I drive with the radio on anyway, so that does remove a lot of background noise. For the local shopping, 30mph roads around town, you wouldn't know I've done anything to the car. Accelerating away from lights on a 40mph, there's a bit of an intake sound, but only whilst you're just getting up to speed in 2nd and 3rd. Today (for my sins) I went to Cheshire Oaks. With it being a longer journey, I had my laptop with VCDS on just to double check how things were. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, because I'd have been better doing a 'before and after' for figures, but never mind. I went about 1200 and the outside temperature was reading about 8c and the air intake sensor was saying between 15 and 30c, depending on the road speed. Air temperature after the turbo was reading between 75 and 100c. On the way back I took a windy route, just to give the car a workout and I can't honestly say the intake has done anything for performance. I did a couple of 0-60 times, but I was struggling a bit for traction on the slightly damp road, and the best I got was an 8.4.

And let the tweaking begin 😊 So the parts came mid last week, but the weather was grim and it was only yesterday I had a chance. The intake side on the left and the charge cooler on the other After about an hour of swearing, catching my fingers and knuckles on everything remotely sharp and requiring double jointed wrists, I got all the standard stuff removed. Charge pipe side of things in. And finally the intake section in!! I'm made up with the results. From around 1750rpm, you get a nice loud 'whoosh' when you're accelerating. It is a bit louder when you bury the throttle as well. I've been on the motorway both yesterday when I was testing and today twice on a few errands and it's not a hinderance whilst cruising at 70. I've got the remap, along with the lines, booked in on the 19th and 20th January, so the benefits of a freer flowing intake will be gained. I've not put the standard intake air router on the front grill yet, but I will be doing. Need to sort out the official blanking plate for the exit on the driver's side, as the tape which I've used for a while is starting to 'peel' off.

breathing a bit of life back into this old thread of mine. So after a bit of umming and arring as per usually I've finally decided to start doing some mods to my car. Just because I'm really impressed with their knowledge of all things VAG, I'm going to be getting a remap done at darkside. I've considered the likes of the racingline remap, but it's a generic map, whereas at least at darkside they see what the score is with the car before they start the tune and adjust accordingly. Whilst it's there, I am also getting braided brake line and a braid clutch one as well. The car is overdue for a fluid change, so I thought get the whole kit and caboodle done at the same time. I have also ordered the charge pipe and induction kit (on this post 2.0 TDI intake mods) and I'm going to install those before it goes in for the remap. With me ordering coloured silicone pipes, it's on back order and will take a few weeks to come. I was considering getting the exhaust side done, but it's a little costly and it's only going to be for cosmetics with it just being cat back, as I don't want to fiddle around with the EGR or DPF side of things. So that's booked it for the major work the end ish of January. Watch this space for more updates

That's nothing to worry about. I've driven trips of hundreds of miles and the same, I've driven short trips and the car has kept it's fan running after I've stopped. It's just cooling itself off, usually whilst the car has been turned off when am active regen is taking place (can usually tell that because of the funny smell when you get out the car)

When my discs and pads are in need of changing, I'll be getting EBC. I'd swapped my old i20 with plain discs and green stuff pads, and it did make a noticeable difference. That did go on track days. Thinking yellow stuff pads and slotted discs on my VRS.