ChoonDoode

Afternoon all, Searching around only pops up threads on the headlight spray delay, hence this thread. Is there a way of putting a delay on the rear wiper starting, to allow more wash to come out. I'm finding of late the wash doesn't get anywhere near down the rear of the screen before the wiper kicks in. I've double checked the jet / gap / hole in the brake light isn't bunged up with crud. Anyone know if this can be done? thanks

The seat raiser / lowerer handle on the passenger side was the cause of an annoying rattle. I thought it was something within the door, but after dismantling that and driving with the door card off, I was satisfied it wasn't in there. It was only from pulling, tugging and knocking all around the front left side of the car I discovered it was that. I've put a square of 3m padding on the gap between the seat base and handle. That solved it.

Day to day driving, you don't really need even a stage 1 tune done. The power from standard is decent enough, but I do agree that more is better. When I had my DTUK box on, the car was noticeably peppier. I've seen the aforementioned Golf on DSD's video and it does certainly pack a punch, but the amount of work needed to get those figures............ I'd be spending that kind of money in other areas, such as suspension and brakes.

When some helmet scratched my driver's side door, the whole door needed doing and I did it through Skoda themselves. I can't find the invoice, but that was around £500 for the whole door. I got a quote off chipsaway, but they didn't seem happy doing such a large and deep scratch. The only problem with getting a 2nd hand bumper is it may be a different shade of blue (even though it's the same colour). Be it from the mix when the panels were sprayed to the sun damage on both your car and the replacement part. Only other option would be to look at your insurance and see if they are able to offer anything. Just need to see what the T's and C's on your policy is, plus all the excess charges.

When I use it in my car for parallel parking I; See the space I'm going to go Press the button and select the parallel park option Put my left indicator on Drive slowly past both what will be the rear, then the front car When the MF screen shows a car symbol with an arrow going into the space, I stop and go into reverse I use only the clutch for speed and allow the car to steer itself I switch between reverse and 1st when the car says to I use it when I go the beach by one of my mates house because the roads around there have quite high kerbs. I always find it to park the car very well. That isn't to say I couldn't do it myself (6 months practice parking a tranny van in and around London) but the car's got sensors and can calculate it's aim into the space quicker than I can

VAG stuff is their bread and butter. They're starting to move into BMW / Mini stuff, but all things VAG diesel, they're **** hot on. The reason I'm looking at going to them is because they're using a bespoke map, rather than a generic one. I understand they'll use a base map to start off, but fit it around you and your car. They race diesel VAGs, so know the limits of the engines / gearboxes / associated parts. Ryan puts a smile on my face. An honest, rough and ready bloke.

from what I've read (bear in mind this is just from browsing sites on the internet) fuels with ethanol have a lower 'storage' life of around 3 months (depending on the ratio). Full fat petrol is around 6 months. Basically, 2 things which affects fuels in general; oxidisation and water intake. The problem is ethanol is affected quicker. From my own experience with the limited running in the first lockdown, diesel starts going bad after 3 months. I had a fair tank full of winter diesel still in the car and even in the much warmer months of July, it wasn't sounding the best. I put a stabiliser in the tank just to keep things ok at the very start of the pandemic because I knew I was WFH til otherwise told. With regards to fuel mixing in the tank whilst driving, I understand it will slosh about. Though I know there will be some kind of baffle, albeit it not as advanced as a racing tank, to stop fuel starvation.

when I've the money, I'm looking at getting a remap done by Darkside development. Don't know if Barnsley would be too far for you to travel. Check on their youtube channel, it shows you loads of cars which they've had dealings with

https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-skoda-octavia-iii-2013-octavia-iii-2014-electrical-system-workshop-manual-edition-12-2014/ Go to page 54 on that PDF and it explains how to get to it. You'd be able to find a part number on it hopefully

it should be able to be. You'd just need to find said part number (the site I use is working at the mo) IIRC it's something which plugs in the back of the screen, so swapping it would require having it removed temporarily

The F20 M140i are increasing in value because it's the only RWD hot hatch. Everything else nowadays is AWD. There's a few things to consider comparing an Octavia to your beamer; Pros Cheaper to run, tax and insurance Increased cabin space More discreet Cons The DSG 'box isn't as slick as a ZF8HP You'll really notice the handling difference with it being FWD The 6 banger in the beamer is a strong engine. Comparing a VRS petrol is chalk and cheese. 335 compared to a stock max 245hp. And again, FWD. Cut and thrust of it, one's a performance hot hatch and the other is a practical family run around with a bit more get up and go

That's one of the reasons I don't like wireless AA. My dad has it in his beamer and especially when you're using the maps or BBC sound streaming, it does take a noticeable chunk out the battery life. I was on a 3 ish hour drive the other day. Phone plugged in, used google maps as the sat nav and my phone's in a 'use for the rest of the day' state when I unplugged it. @varaderoguy Yeah, I can see it's advantage because it's a case of jump in the car and you don't have to faff about with wires. Only thing I would say may be a good investment would either be the charging pad, or at a push (and wouldn't look as great) is a phone cradle with a charging pad in the back of it.

This is really sounding dodgy with the number of parts which appear to have been swapped within the car considering you say the write off was for rear quarter damage.

IIRC there's an auto on option in the climate control menu. Turns it on when it thinks the screen needs clearing

No tracks in this country have both the length to get to speed and then scrub it off before the next corner. Only European track I feel you'd have a chance would be the nordschleife (that's dodgy at the best of times) and Mugello (but you'd need to be carrying some speed out the last corner) I'd love to have a drive on the autobahn just to see how fast I could get my car. However I've seen oodles of videos of speed tests and what not on them and they look sketchy at the best of times. AutoTopNL does car reviews on them and he's forever getting caught in traffic.

I remember seeing a while ago (and try as I have to find the thread, but I can't) and it was talking about the 256 path length limit. Just throwing that one in there as a possible 'thing' causing things to go amiss. On my car, I use 2 SD cards and have dance esk songs on the 1st and rock / metally ones on the 2nd. I must have a few thousand songs on both, but I've never seen the above message. I'm on MIB2 with the latest update.

That's a one hell of a relief for you. Did they indicate whether it was a issue with those type of headlight clusters? Or is it just a failing on the ones fitted to your car?

IIRC things like that can't be done with a OBD tool. Anything along those lines is usually sorted by a remap of some descript.

damn and blast. The joys of motoring eh? Only other thing to consider may be a breakers yard one. But it's a big gamble on it working or not. Especially for a car so new to be in the scrapyard you'd expect some serious damage

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/headlight-insert-10533/skoda/octavia/octavia-5e3/126002-2-0-tsi-rs don't know if they're the right ones, but it's a start any road *edit* get the light's part number as you can search by that

as Friday afternoon cars go, this one is really testing your patience. Are any of the ones you can get on autodoc any good? And then get a local garage to swap it?

This is just from a bit of googling out of interest (so don't take this as gospel), but it sounds like the button modules are replacements and the car hasn't been told to expect replacements (if that makes sense). Have you the information on why the car was registered as a Cat N and then what repairs were carried out on it? I'm just wondering if that steering wheel isn't the original one.

My 16 plate VRS tdi has relatively low mileage due to a change in circumstances (illness and a job change, plus covid). I predominantly drive 10 miles a day, if that, currently. That's if I'm going the shops and/or gym. This is because I'm working from home, but I do have the odd 80ish mile around trip if I'm required to attend one of my offices. I've VCDS and I often check the ash level and with the current level, my car's DPF is good for another 120k miles. Would I have got the petrol VRS if I had a crystal ball back in 2016..........no, I don't think I would. I'm over the moon with how the diesel performs, both the pulling power when the car is either towing or with a full car load of people / luggage. I'm getting normally mid 40's with the majority town driving and easily into the mid 50's with longer motorway driving. Just doing a few calculations with the lowest expected MPG for both the cars, over 15k miles with petrol at £1.40 and diesel at £1.47 (just added a bit because of market volatility), you're looking at a yearly petrol cost of around £2500 and a diesel one of £2000. If you are going to be doing the constant mileage and keep up with the required servicing, I can't see why a diesel wouldn't be a solid choice. Just be a case of working out how long you anticipate keeping said vehicle for and working out what the additional charges are likely to be with most cars.

Yeah I'm someone who, more often than not, changes the OEM bulbs on my vehicles. However, just making the adjustment on the headlights, I found this to be more than appropriate. I had to do a few test drives in the dark just to get them aligned (first time I was spotting planes with them). Have a go at adjusting them, its an 10mm allen key IIRC and its only a case of turning it a quarter turn or so

before you change the bulb, have you attempted to adjust the beam height using the adjusters on the housings? I did that when I first got my car because I thought all the headlights were doing were picking out ants on the floor. Adjusting them with the allen key adjusters only a bit gave much better throw