TheClient

This.

What I have heard of before on other forums and platforms using the gen 3. Especially with upgraded stronger pressure plates, is the extra force can cause crank walk and destroys the thrust washer. It's a pretty simple design and not that robust. Then the crank moves and destroys itself and castings and bearings. Usually there are bad noises with this as the sign and in one case I've seen the trust washer broken found in the sump.

The filter itself is just a cartridge type. Has no integral valve. The housing and screw on cap uses a drain stick that releases the oil as you remove. That's the bit I'm interested in. @vRSRutty did you notice that? As others have pointed out, draining the oil would allow inspection for sparkly contaminants. The old cartridge oil filter would of allowed inspection as well. Did you look in the folds?

Oh boy. Sigh. Slightly bad news there then..... I can only assume they are *very* confident there is a big issue that can't be fixed but I'd want to / need to - understand their diagnosis process and what's ruled out before opening my wallet for £9k+.!!!!!! Can you ask to speak to the diagnosing tech or even better ask for a report on the diagnosis and tests carried out and conclusion so far. You may well have to pay for their work so far irrespective, but that's probably fair in most instances. Unless they said something else at the outset.. I know you changed the filter earlier but the drain rod that sits in the centre and connecting to the inside plastic filter housing cover. It usually comes out when you pull out the cap. Does this look intact and orings ok and fit positively into drain recess beneath oil filter when you remove / refit? Definitely? There is an updated spring tensioned version rather than the stick version my my16 came with but if it is sealing either version should work. I put the newer version in mine. If it does not seal the drain below the filter it will cause oil pressure problems 100pc. It allows the oil to drain out as you remove the cap. If they have dismissed replacing the oil pump they must believe there are massive bearing journal clearances creating lack of pressure.. that's my current hypothesis of what they're thinking. But how have they reached it or what ever their actual diagnosis is.. . Is important to you clearly. Is the car manual? Does it have upgraded clutch items? I hope they're wrong but if their experience and reputation is good and there is good evidence of diagnosis of why they've said this. At this point, I can't make an opinion on it. But clearly the response is massively concerning. You'd think they would be aware you gonna want a little bit more discussion than a phonecall for auth of £9k!! Or have your car back, it can't be fixed. Maybe they will fill the missing pieces on collection...

Q1 and Q2 are to a large extent out of an individual's hand, so far as assement is concerned, as they are already defined on the vehicle fitment plate for tyres, which factors the vehicles load and other inputs already for you. I don't think you can argue with what is already plated on the vehicle explicitly. And if you go outside manufacturer fitted specification you are running an argument with an insurer for sure and one which is quite obvious. Amongst other enforcement organisations, depending on the jurisdiction being referenced in countries where it may be illegal, if you were to travel cross border for example But if you want to... put some s rate retread tyres on your vrs. They still have a rating to 180 kph well in excess of legal road speeds in uk.

Likely faulty driver unit. Could be loose connection / damaged wiring - but the plugs are normally firm fit onto speaker terminal. They're cheap to pick up second hand (new mid bass driver) but test it before you put all the door card back together and probably clean off old gasket sealant and apply sone sealant mastic as water tends to drip from the speaker seal to the inner door seal unless they are very well sealed..

Well for starters, fitting a lower speed rated tyre is an adverse undeclared mod. Which may render your car uninsured. Its a fairly objective test - tyre is mfr speed rating or it is not. All that needs checking is the tyre plate. Driving uninsured is.... against the law. I'll let you paw over the uk statute books and see what you find as far as tyre load index and speed ratings and going below mfr specifications. In many other jurisdictions such a departure, is also explicitly illegal. More to the point, load index and speed index are both indications of the tyre structural integrity and strength. Would it be a good idea to fit lower index or speed on the basis you know better? You run lighter loads, you don't drive at 160mph etc. For me, I'd stick with the mfr spec and avoid the hassle, risks, legal aspects.....just my opinion of course.

Pretty sure it will list the tyre spec along side pressures as the pressures vary by tyre size. Also, haven't looked it up - but almost certain the factory spec is a Y rated tyre. Academic really in practical terms but it is the law not to replace a lower speed rated tyre unless it is a winter tyre or a temporary space saver spare...

Briefly, I did this on my mk2 fl vrs when I had it. Yes, you can buy them second hand. There are a range of model part nos that fit. I can look up what I bought but you should find a thread with those compatible somewhere. Maybe outside briskoda as well. If it was in an identical car then it probably won't need much coding, if it's from say another vag group car likelihood is some more coding. But either way to get it to activate will require some coding atleast. You need the Bluetooth module and probably a piggy back quadlock connector loom. If you want to use it with your phone you will need the microphone and cable as well to use it properly.

Yes. There is a voltage range on the electric wastegate actuators that you need to set to first, before the adaption will be allowed to complete allowing upper and lower ranges to be learnt. The voltage is a representation of the position of extension the actuator rod.

This is a 1.8tsi with the gen 2 ea888. 90k is good going compared to quite a few… I’d be willing to bet the bores are all messed up and the scraper rings are clogged. Although, I have to admit, looking at the head and valves; there doesn’t seem to be a huge amount of carbon build up or oil contamination visible. The intake ports will look worse of course.. looking again, that rusty ring in cylinder 3 could be a cracked block….. @Trapolinagsdo you want to enlighten us.?

Check for codes. Log boost actual against boost specified. Ask garage if they can think of anything. Wastegate actuator maybe not set up properly but would show in the two suggestions in opening of this response.

Just guess work without a full scan. It would generally be recommended to start with a full scan of all modules. Not that you are guaranteed a fault code. Suggest try and find a VCDS or OBDeleven user, there is a listing on this site for user and locations. Or go to a garage and pay for a full scan. It is possible the electronic pedal itself faulty. But just an educated guess based on your symptoms.

True. In reality, thinking about a likely current draw, a dash cam is probably 1amp or possibly less when fully active. I did say it would be overstated!

The other thing is you may be able to use 2 core and only earth at the site of the control box to a good body earth point.

It is the better way. But the downside is it makes hiding it and cable flexibility worse.

What is acceptable comes from v=ir. And you need the length (double for return cct), cable resistance (varies with cross section) and current draw. So, say 4amps, (probably over kill) 8 metres, acceptable voltage drop 2 or 3%. Tables I see with cross sections, suggest 1.3mm2 to 1.5mm2 at least. But then again, the current draw of that camera won't be 4 Amps so in all likelihood you may well get away with 0.75mm2. If you Google for some Automotive cable specs and voltage drop calculator you'll see what I mean.. as long as the cable is fused appropriately for cable capacity, too small a cable doesn't create any risk but the item may not function at too low voltage.

Yes. You can extend as far as you want as long as you use required cable size for voltage drop. Surely there would be someway to stow that control box along the way to rear of car? It looks quite small? I reckon if you got all cill trim off you would find somewhere. .. Per @HappySamsee if anyone comes up with anything else in response - in rear of car - to use for the SL. As that would save a lot of pulling trim apart as well.

I think your easiest solution by far is to extend the power cables for the control box (which you have to do anyway, to some degree, as garmin don't provide fuse connections or piggy backs). Then run the cable along the door sills area. At some position going up to rooflining if required significantly further back in car. You'll have to hide that annoying control box say under the rear seat along the way, maybe cut out some underlay, and continue the factory cable from there untouched. Looking at this helpful tear down video you could resolder the USB side on the board end and leave the mini USB with the embedded resistor untouched i.e. just extend it from board. But you'll have to open the control box loosing warranty, you'll have to solder direct on the board and you'll have to do something with the seal bung, see if it could be removed from the original cable and repositioned onto extended wire entry. Seems much more of a faff.

Could be worthwhile to rule out chain rattle. Reckon it is probably likely the hydraulic tappets (followers) given timing bits replaced. Next time it's left overnight, let someone else start it, listen before they start near the plastic timing cover. If the rattle is from in there, as it starts, - chain. If its more from top of cam cover its tappets. Take plastic enginer cover off before starting. Keep clothes, jewellery, fingers and anything else you want to keep away from aux belt and pulleys.

It does sound a bit like chain rattle while the engine builds hydraulic pressure for a moment or two. The ratchet on the tensioner is supposed to hold tension to prevent this. But if it has been replaced, with the timing chain it may not be. What it also could be are the hydraulic tappets, that also require oil pressure to build for a second before they are working properly. I had one of your cars for 5 years from 34k to 80k miles.

I looked in the workshop manual for the golf r, didn't look too bad but oil will need draining or lowering level at least. V belt removed. Access from under likely required - so undertray removed. If the oil filter drain valve is fitting and sealing ok when the filter cover is screwed back on........ I can only think of that valve or the oil pump.. £100 sounds a lot, but is not much time once the car is in the shop!!

Well the reason the tensioner became over extended sometimes was related to chain stretch, so there was some interaction as early revision chains were stretttchhy. But early edition tensioners in the gen 2 also had big big problems on their own. Like the spring clip that held the rathchet teeth in place. The ratchet teeth. There were so many weak points that would let go with disaster often ensuing.

And when I did a quick google with your fault - there were other people in Mk7 golfs and the like, who managed to right the fault without knowing exactly what they did but after further attempts at disassembly and re-assembly!

Yeah, the mk6 gti was the gen 2. big tensioner and timing chain problems - same engine in mk2 fl vRS. He had the dreaded crank / camshaft correlation fault if I remember correctly back to the OP original post...