TheClient

Never had this before but a bit of Google searching suggests you're not totally alone. Even if a lot of threads don't always present a resolution. If its not false activation in a pocket it may be a faulty transmitter or poor contacts inside the transmitter, especially check tge battery contacts and if there is any pressed contact on the board, clean with isoprpyl alcohol. Do you have the old batteries? Or an old battery that stops working. I suspect they may not actually be flat but just slightly reduced voltage from new. Test voltage with a multi meter. If you haven't got one, get one they're useful and can be picked up pretty cheaply.

Yes, that more or less what I was saying if you go straight from foot on brake to pressing accelerator that will emphasise any delay in taking up drive by clutches. A pause, even half a second to a second BEFORE pressing accelerator helps prevent this. If you're on a hill and don't have hill hold. The handbrake being applied whilst you take foot off brake helps.

I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising. I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way. Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up. Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability. Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused. Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption. Is that what you mean by reset? On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try.

Yeah ok. It was the reference to timing chain that made me ask, but you're talking about the chain linking the two camshafts at the other end of the engine. The BWA mk2 set up is quite different to the mk2 fl (Ea888 gen 2), which is all chains and the vvt is controlled by an electro magentic actuator and a valve inside the camshaft that controls oil into the variator assembly vanes. What do the 3 plastic rings seal? Do they provide sealing for hydraulic pressure used in the vvt mechanism or just to prevent oil leakage to outside the cover? IF the latter then they are probably aren't going to cause timing or rough running. If the former, then they could cause performance issues. Have you monitored camshaft timing measuring blocks and revved engine. Actual and specified should follow quite nicely..

I see them mentioned in a few posts. They presumably know what they're doing. And they've repaired your cluster so that's great.. But, although I don't have any detail knowledge of the cluster mileage validation, and I am totally speculating as the issue has arisen for the first time on re-installation, it sounds like what ever they did to repair the cluster has upset the mileage validation routine. I'd be pretty hopeful they will have come across it before and know how to resolve it. Otherwise you will be searching the internet for cluster mileage fixes, on the dark side, with the type of car dealer that sells a 160k mile car, as a 60k mile car! Even though, you are just trying to fix an error rather than clocking the car!

Is this mk2 or mk2 facelift? If main timing is by chain it will be facelift ccza engine code. Plastic rings on timing cover? Not sure what you mean but if it is not totally sealed it will introduce a vacuum leak. The fine oil separators /pcv assembly can also cause bad running and should be replaced with a genuine item, aftermarkets often introduce problems. What error codes and description, remain or are shown now?

Surely must be something related to repair of the cluster. Ask them first?

I was going to say the bottles discolour quite a bit after 3 or 4 years on. So the dark colour could of been just the tank. But if your level increased and you've removed coolant and its black once out of bottle, that is a concern yes. Further to @bigjohn point - Have you looked at the dip stick to get an idea if coolant is also in oil?. Also the level on dip stick. I also would not drive until you can identify the cause as it could get worse quickly and could cause other damage.

Maybe open another thread for the 1.4 tsi. I think it was OK but get some replies with more experience in that engine series.

24mm maybe... cant totally remember. But usually a good tight grip or - an adjustable spanner will do, as long as you've removed battery.

Oh sh33t. Have you a saved full scan with vcds for the ecu scan. That said it's dsg to dsg. But my first yhjng would be to match long coding if you could. I haven't done it b4, so await further replies but perhaps update response if you do have a scan.

Yeah they're real alright. Have advised on heaps of threads on here and by PM, even outside those failure threads. There are countless threads on here where people have purchased a used car with the gen 2 ea888 and after a month of driving realise it is drinking so so much oil. If they're lucky, and they bought it from a dealer who's still contactable, they get most or nearly all of their money back. Apart from the lost sleep, worrying and wasted time which they live with. But first the dealer will tell them about the warranty and inspect car, and fill up oil delaying things. You can easily find yourself out of the statutory refund window, causing more uncertainty. Do not buy one of these privately unless your grandmother is selling it to you. Even then, look her in the eyes!!

Is there some key interlock if your foot is not taken off the brake? On my mk7 golf with dq250, in the driveway, when parking, after reversing, I don't use the electric handbrake (it's flat) and usually have my foot on brake, but still manage to get key out!

In a seat workshop manual for cdaa engine (gen 2 ea888) it says 35Nm.

Ok. Seen plenty of videos with those valves removed from gen 3 engines without any timing chain / crank lock out. It's just screwed in to the end of camshaft - not incredibly tight. I'll see if I can see a spec anywhere.

If you can't press in the button on the valve then it must be frozen stuck and faulty. You should be able to remove the valve with a variant of the t10352 vw tool. I don't guarantee that is the right variant but this article says so. There'd a t10352/1 /1a /2 etc. You ger the idea. Note: reverse thread on valve thread!!! This is assuming the engine is a Ea888 gen 2. The tool should fit in the magnet aperture and the valve should be removable through the same aperture without taking off the upper timing cover. Nb. Unless I'm rembering incorrectly, always possible, the upper cover camtiming cover be removed though without engine mounts being taken off. Bottom on definitely requires engine mount off.

That one is slightly different to what the ones over the years I've dealt with look like. Its a powered strut? A couple of things. The ball is pretty dirty and dry. That could of caused it to bind up somehow. Or there was too much resistance on the gate and it forced its was off damaging the retaining bits. The inner metal clip on one side inside the recess for ball does look damaged now where you circle it. You could try to bend back it but may not work. Usually with the non powered struts at the ball end there is a spring band to flick off or some sort of release button arrangement to remove. What are those bits sticking out circled? Looks like you press on them? Your best bet is to compare to the other side? But don't damage it as well. Genuine parts are silly money for these. There are after market replacements and also used parts on ebay. No experience of whether the aftermarket are worth trying.

If you mean when manually shifting with say paddles, in short time it will take over again. If that is the issue you need to move the gear levee across to manual plane to left. If it is that say, in manual gear control with lever left, it still kicks down when accel pedal switch reached. You can only fix that behaviour with a tcu map.

Unlikely to find after market cover if nothing comes up on the likes of autodoc. If you can get genuine at 188 that's probably as good as it gets. Lllparts list vw audi at 215, Skoda at 266 both plus postage if applicable. Same part number. Guess you would end up with some incorrect badging or printing on cover for saving of £50!

Mmm. Maybe looking at a used rear hatch - edit off car, completely stripped of trim, maybe without glass, may help. Either in person or Internet photos. Sounds tricky. I've not got anything else really.

That is quite a lot of difference assuming it is parked on a perfectly flat surface. edit: 28k miles only as well!! The dimensions are in the suspension setting workshop manual available in Erwin. Published as height from centre of wheel hub to top of arch. I have these for the Mk7 Golf but not Mk3 Oct. Are you sure a spring is not missing a coil. A heavy driver and passenger behind. Or a replacement spring that is a different spec is installed. If they are genuine they have up to 3 colour bands. There are lots and lots of variants when manufactured based on suspension PR code (spec) car built with. You can look up on etka a full listing of available parts, but I suspect you will need to know the suspension PR code car built with to narrow the part - there will be a choice of many parts for the mk3 platform.

Yes. Had this on a mk5 golf when they smashed the rear tailgate glass and front door glass. Glass repair people were not very interested other than removing large pieces and maybe one vacuum over. On the tailgate hatch like @Cap44 says you may need to open close hatch and even vacuum with half open. It may have been a little easier with glass out but not to worry. You could also ping off the gas struts connection at ball joint end and you could be a lot more violent with opening and closing but you will need two people and a length of solid timber to hold tailgate open. Nb. You probably won't get it all out. Sometimes they stick some double sided tape inside just to catch it just to stop the rattles. I'm sure they will be able to improve it though. Best of luck..

Yes in vcds and should also be one in OBD eleven. I haven't used either but the guide attached shows you how to start with the unconditioned voltage reference and adjust waste gate length from there. Then run adaption. The adaption will not complete if it is too far out.

Have a look at this. Should help. It is focused on is38 upgrade but setup of voltage and adaption should be same for is20. Thus is assuming this is a petrol car. https://mygolfmk7.com/2019/08/wastegate-first-adaptation-charge-pressure-actuator-p2563/

It's normly set up on the bench. You'll need to post the error descriptor. Edit. Actually I say that for petrol. Is this petrol or diesel.