TheClient

I think you are going to have to pull timing covers off and inspect. If your going to all that trouble and cost you'd want to replace the main chain, rails and tensioner even if it is not the broken one. I wonder how much plastic has got ingested. Hopefully it just broke up and dropped into the pan.

You mean it a guide or rail for the chain? They have been known the fail or get ripped off sometimes. They're mostly white plastic from memory often with cross hatching reinforcement I think. I can't really tell from the photo as its all covered in oil. Edit. This is for a gen 2, but will be similar. There are white brown and black rails and guides!!

Have you ran a full scan, to see if it shows anything? Unlikely though it probably is. Do all the speakers make that sound, or just front rhs? I'm inclined to agree with @PetrolDave. The unlocking will awaken canbus and infotainment and that noise is occurring as a consequence of it booting up. Obviously, it would not be normal or expected. So seems to be fault. Something you could perhaps try is a firmware update in case there's a bug with the current version or it's corrupted somehow.

The aircon flaps often are noticeable sometimes as a click or flutter noise over that side. But as you say it would not be related to a bump. Best try would be to get someone else to drive and you sit in passenger seat try to listen, hold things press on trim in hope of isolating. Could be the A pillar trim. or something underneath it. Lots of possibilities until you can narrow down a bit further!

There are some add on boxes which can be stacked but I'd say you're right, most times they'll fight one another. There are flags, records showing ecu flashes but not sure what software you need to view on. Some will probably enlighten us in a while... Other way I suppose is on dyno or use a GPS log for 0-60 or 400m the latter if you have a suitable private road.

I use a fine paint brush and vacuum whilst brushing without touching the trim with the vacuum. Microfibre cloth to finish the glossy trim and screen. Usually just a damp cloth or chamoix for the door cards and dirtier trim in doors.

On the mk2 fl from memory the console had to come out so the estimate may not be so ridiculous. How does the handbrake feel, is it at full extension before holding car?

1. through 3. sound like a gear linkage cable or adjuster needs attention or replacement. If you search on here for gear linkage adjustment you may find some posts. Although, the exact format will depend on matching to the 5 spd transmission that is used in your car. 4. Could be transmission bearings at 100k km a gearbox oil change would not be a bad idea. Be careful to use the correct specified oil for your transmission. Genuine vw/ skoda will probably be easiest to be sure. 5. It's common to hear a change in noise as when you actuate the clutch you are moving the throw out bearing and disengaging the clutch from the flywheel via the pressure plate. I would say shift problems are most likely linkeages although a worn clutch can cause problems. I'd confirm the cables, linkeages and adjustment first...

Do you mean the intake and exhaust camshaft timing, actual vs specified start to deviate? Is it one or both - intake or exhaust. If it is that and you've replaced the valves and solenoid actuators then it's only the camshaft variator itself which is sold with the camshaft and a pretty big job to pull camshaft or shafts out.. I'd try to Rule out cam timing being out.

That's what I'd say. They are deep well plug recesses and the cam girdle cover joins the head quite a way down. Unless it's bad you don't really want to be doing that job!

On the petrols the oil pressure switch are on the oil filter housing. I'll have to try and check online for the 1.6 diesel unless someone with this car can comment. Again, on petrol there are 2x there is a high and low pressure switch.

Apologies they also add the words long life to the vw508.00 version. What a mouthfull: Total Quartz Ineo Xtra Long Life 0w-20 Advanced Fully Synthetic Engine Oil https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-228279-total-quartz-ineo-xtra-long-life-0w-20-advanced-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx?variantid=364700

What engine is it? Yes, it's quite noticeable. I'd describe as a rattle rather than knock. It sounds like overhead gear like tappets noise, cam shaft followers perhaps. Maybe also possible timing chain rattle. Its quite obvious and repeatable. Shouldn't be too hard to isolate.

Yeah. OK. 508.00 got introduced after the WLTP changes maybe when the ppf got introduced. A lot is to do with better economy, hence the thinner formulation.. Before that it was 502.00 fixed interval (often 5w40 but some other sae ratings were offered) or 504.00 variable long life, which were 5w30. So you're on the right page and you are making sense if you know your 2019 mandates vw508.00. The advanced version of the Total quartz ineo xtra 0w20 seems to be 508.00 compliant. Is it possible they used that? If not, I would get the the selling dealer to rectify the oil change with 508.00 compliant oil. If there are any issues with the car during a reasonable period it is the selling dealer who is responsible. And raising the matter with them and getting then to fix it gives you an audit trail of their mistake. As to your concerns over the use of the oil for few hundred miles, its really unlikely it will cause you issues but should be rectified if its not vw508.00. Also it is useful for you to have the correspondence proof of their mistake and rectification. For peace of mind more than reality. As for the residue oil, again unlikely to be a problem. They could do a double change with the correct oil to flush and dilute the other oil buy its very very likely overkill. Edit. Ps try to relax and enjoy the car!

Mmm. That can be mechatronic, or clutch or speed sensor. When I've seen users report it. It's been the mechatronic which is not what you want to hear...

It's worth a try. How long since a fluid and filter change. But it doesn't sound great with the 6th gear problem and other symptoms. New clutch 35k ago? Assume new fluid then? How many miles in total?

The other possibilities beyond cam sensors are wiring loom to sensors, ecu (remote possibility), engine timing not set properly. Another possibility could be the camshaft valves themselves, behind magnets although I'm not 100% the fault would show range / performance P0341 It is a possibility. To this point, has your garage, monitored camshaft adjustment timing, specified and actual on intake and exhaust camshafts? The measuring blocks should track relatively closely, specified = actual. They could log it and review. If one is not tracking properly it could indicate and issue with the camshaft adjustment mechanism (magnet, valve, variator part of camshaft).

Ok. I reckon there are 2. There are in the golf mk7 r gen 3. Have you got 2 camshaft magnets, If there are then to get actual timing advance on both intake and exhaust, will more than likely need 2. You can measure the link length accross the top of the timing set up between camshafts... behind upper cover... But this is mainly to check for stretch. If you measured and it checks OK, ghe whole timing could still be one tooth out.

Yeah. Fair enough. 125k. Probably a good idea to replace chain and tensioner regardless, if you are keeping it. Trouble is they probably need to remove the lower cover to recheck all timing marks properly. Probably near half the labour cost of the whole timing chain. Did they replace the intake camshaft sensor as well? Or is p0341 exhaust cam timing specific? For cost and hassle ot may be a worthwhile shot in the dark.. if it is not either camshaft sensor I can't think of anything other than timing set up!!!

Mmm. ok. That is a bit suspicious then. If it is not the actual sensor, as it has been replaced with a genuine known item, then.......... another possibility is the chain is not timed correctly - e.g. one tooth out... If it say slipped, and it was not checked properly when replaced.... On a gen 3 ea888 there is 2x camshaft sensors isn't there, intake and exhaust? Have both been replaced? I'd be focussing on the message you've got as that is a good indicator or why it is not happy and until you clear that there is little point on focussing on anything else. Yes, if battery is aged you could replace that if it is likely to need doing soon anyway or get it tested. As for other investigations, fuel / air filter etc.... not much point until you get a grasp of the fault code and keep it cleared. Its probably showing EML? Out of interest, did you replace chain yourself, or ask a garage to do it, or did the garage fault find and recommend it doing to fix it?...

Hi. Was the p0341 showing before you replaced the timing chain? Was the bad idling during warm up present before timing chain replacement or has both issues started since?

15188 is oil pressure switch malfunction. So that makes sense why they suspected and replaced that. the others are inactive and don’t seem related. is this a scan as of now or end of last year? Have you cleared and re ran? As if you are still getting limp mode still, I’m expecting there may be a new fault code that wasn’t present before? Or if the fault is coming back after clearing the other oil pressure switch maybe faulty as well. There are two I think, high and low pressure. Seems very coincidental for both to go faulty though. those scan fault codes on generic scan tools don’t give great descriptions as you’ve probably noticed.

What engine fault code was or is actually recorded now? Normally a wastegate or actuator would log a under or overboost DTC, possibly leading to limp mode. Oil pressure could also lead to limp mode but would normally log a completely different fault code related to......... oil pressure over or under limit. So it seems strange to me they replaced the oil pressure switch - it seems they must have identified an oil pressure fault. An oil pressure switch problem would often also be associated with an Oil pressure warning on the MFD. I would recommend a full scan now. Before embarking further. You could try and move the wastegate actuator rod, move back and forth. even lube the pivot of the wastegate arm end, see photo, but waste of time if the fault is not related to boost. If the fault is over boost / under boost related, it could be the actuator, the gears in the servo can fail or it could be the actual wastegate flapper arm pressed into the turbo housing itself that is much more difficult to deal with and will need a turbo rebuilder or part new casing. Turbo out for either of those. According to Mk7 GTI posts you can change the actuator with the turbo in place but I imagine they are tight to work with. This thread suggests a low profile T30 in the IHI20 actuator bolts. AFAIK VW/Audi do not sell the actuator separately, but you can obtain them. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-wastegate-actuator-with-turbo-on-car.395214/

Don't have any specific experience to share with your particular engine but most responders will suggest and/or ask for (as starting point): Tyre pressures all wheels Full diagnostic scan for any logged or pending codes Visual check / replace air filter When was fuel filter last done? Check all wheels for binding brakes. Possibly, dpf reported parameters

If things have been bent or moved out of alignment it makes it tricky sometimes. May need to try to realign, bend things back as far as you can. Some things that can help fasten. 1. Loosen off other positions and move around, 2. Use a temporary long screw to reach the speed nut or clip, pull the other part closer, align better, remove and try with the proper torx screw. 3. As long as it isn't at risk of puncturing anything, just use a slightly longer screw.