TheClient

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The 7sp dry clutch is supposedly a sealed for life unit. Unless of course, they put the wrong oil in to start with. The 6sp dsg 250, wet clutch uses a vw specifies fill oil and has no reservoirs. Outcome, my interpretation, there is no link to brake fluid.

Thanks for the post. Useful for others for out of pockets. So just an afternoon work at 0£ per hour and a few hours work and later you're done, 😆 Good work. Btw.

Yeah. Not interlinked on dsg surely.

Brilliant. It's a very significant achievement.

Looking good. I have some photos of my 2.0 ea888 when I took the Intake manifold off. I don't know how much they will help but I can send them to you if you pm me you email.

Sounds promising, finger crossed. I guarantee you'll be cleaning intake ports and valves in the near future if you hold onto the car!😬

I never did any logging with HPFP. From what I've heard 40-50 bar at idle. And up to 120bar in operation is good. Yours maybe a touch high, maybe. Would it cause a problem though. No check engine light, so it is not flagging it as out of range. The DV operating is because the ECM thinks you are backing off I suppose and yes that will lower boost for sure.

On the injectors there is also the spray pattern and flow rate which you can't check without pulling them and getting checked on ansu machine or similar. If you do carbon cleaning I'd send your 4 injectors off for cleaning at testing at same time. They cone off with the intake manifold.

If carbon clean has never been done. I'd do that as a start. It disturbs the air flow, can cause misfires and lack of response. I'll link to my thread that shows you mine at 60 something miles.

How many miles. Have you cleaned inlet ports and valves? Checked In jectors?

The camshaft cover or girdle contains the integral bearings? If so tension the head properly. And then the cam cover or girdle or whatever they call it. The cams should still turn else you've got a problem?

Valve stem seals can pass some oil but I don't think the qty you have discussed. Cylinder head looks brand new. Some work there for sure!!

Its something ridiculous like 200NM plus 180 degree for the axle bolt. Is that what you mean? I didn't use that much force. I couldn't when doing mine. Use new axle bolts if looking for that kind of torqye. Good luck. 👍

Overboost often the result of sticky vnt turbo vanes. No idea if your car is suffering from that or if your remap and other mods could be affecting the fault or the way it presents. Clear the faults logged and drive and see how you get on in terms of what repeats.

There's no mag clutch on octavia 2 ac compressors. They are variable displacement compressors. There's no clutch at all. The compressor runs all the time even with no demand but the duty cycle is very low due to the design that limits displacement to near to nothing in low / no demand.

Yeah. Measuring block 93. That would be it. Mine was about -2.0 on a 2010, after getting a new tensioner chain and guides. -0.79 is very low, which is good on face of it! . But I wouldn't totally trust alone. Confirming the tensioner is a latest design and not over extended would provide further reassurance via inspection plug and mirror or borscope inspection camera . You can also take the upper timing cover off and set up timing marks and measure accross timing marks and to centre of upper plastic guide against the specified measurement range. At 120k miles that phase adjustment is remarkably low. So you could well be right. But personally I wouldn't put 100% faith in it until I could see the tensioner though! But my luck often doesn't run well on those sorts of things! Hence the reservation.

I’d definitely take a look and photograph with the plug out. You should be able to tell if it is the old design, which would mean it definitely hasn’t been changed. are you looking at the correct live data, there are several parameters closely worded. It is something like camshaft adjustment phase deviation. It’s not gospel only relying on that indicative data parameter. Are you reading it when the car is warmed up?

You can but if any damage or wear to guides its a very suboptimal repair. Their are specs for the valve deviation. But if you can feel significant play or differences between valves that would be a red flag.

Good going. Quite a bit of work by sounds of it. How are you checking valve guides? 16 new valves. That isn't going to be cheap. Are you using genuine valves, I've not heard of a spray for head gasket install. The mating surfaces need to be clean. Deck confirmed flat and true. Install and follow bolt install sequence and torque down specs.

Yeah, The retail store offering will probably get your battery fitted ok, but I would not rely on then doing any vehicle specific coding etc. They just don't have the expertise or tools or experience or knowledge. It is possibly unfair to think they would. If you need a battery fitted and a near a retail store - sure. But plan to visit a technician / auto centre etc after to code or adapt to vehicle. Or visit the auto centre or independent garage in the first place. But Halford retail stores can be handy especially at weekends and evening hours are decent.....

PS. have you considered trying to source a genuine exchange head?

How good is the car in all other respects? Did the engine use any oil? Would you keep it if sinking money into it? That is the only justification for spending substantial money otherwise, as you say, spending money just to immediately offload will probably net you negative returns. You could ask the garage to price you up a repair, if they are capable, based on presumed damage to overhead gear. I.e. replace all timing chain and tensioner gubbins, remove head, preferably source a complete VW exchange head, replace, retime, etc (preferred rather than rebuilding head at a machine shop). My guesstimate is it would exceed £3k. A new engine from Skoda is £7k plus plus. I suppose a wrecked car engine is possible solution but a complete unknown as to condition and risks...A reconditioned engine? I don't know but it must be a quality experienced and guaranteed rebuilder. What usually happens is the ratchet on the tensioner fails and holds no tension when the engine stops. Next time you start....... Crunch. There are other modes of failure of course. Hopefully, assuming the engine hasn't had severe collision it will just be the oveherhead gear. A post in circulation at the same time as yours with the 1.8 version.

Yes. I had a 2010 vrs. Replaced the timing chain and tensioner when I bought it at 4 years 35k miles. The originals were not the latest revision and prone to failure. Even just now someone is posting on a zero compression from failed tensioner under cdaa refuses to fire up. This is the 1.8 version of the ea888 gen 2. Essentially the same engine as ccza.

Yep. All common stuff. Lucky the gauze hasn't been taken into the camshaft variator. You can run the original bridge with gauze removed. The tensioner was a terrible design on old versions. Which is why I tell anyone who asks it is just a question of when. The early chains were also prone to stretch or wear.