TheClient

Good work. You'll be putting a sign out for vw work soon! The intake ports will need cleaning out even with with new valves. Are you getting a machine shop to do the valves or doing yourself? I'd leave the exhaust valves if they seem OK. You should replace the fine oil separator. I really can't imagine it would cause that much oil but it has been known to cause a noticeable amount of oil. You need to use a genuine part and there are two current part sequences. I.e. 2 current versions. Even tps / vw don't often notice this. I'm still concerned you've got clogging is the oil scraper rings. Which is the oil usage underlying issue. But the tpi fix fir the 1.8 was new pistons, controds, rings. Its very expensive.

A screen, especially if you buy used, will be a lot cheaper than replacing the whole MIB2.5 unit. I wonder why skoda dealer is suggesting that? Is yours the 9.2" glass screen or 8"? The screen comes out pretty easy with the help of a set of vw radio keys. They just release the tabs at each corner. Yes, you should get a full scan done using something like VCDS or OBDeleven. It will report on all the control systems including media. It may display a fault. It will also give the serial number, sw / fw versions. The other thing you could try is a fw (firmware update) if not the latest. There are people on here more clued up on that than me in that regard, I'm surprised someone hasn't posted. You could get the fw / sw info from the information screen on your unit. If you can get that far. Otherwise the scan will give you the info then post another thread asking about firmware upgrade and if that could cause any kind of operational issue. I know it was working fine before, which does suggest it is actually a hardware fault but I have seen posts where things can be resolved by an updated flash.

If everything still works but it is unresponsive isn't it just likely to be the screen? They can be replaced separately to the brains of the unit I'm the glovebox. Does a full scan show anything?

If you've been carrying loads I'd measure the static height. I find the rear springs need replacing from about 5 years on.

The conventional advice is always use a locking hold tool. I doubt you will get it off with a impact wrench. The engine has no compression. I suppose it is not normally advised because 1) you'll be rotating the engine and potentially causing more damage and 2) the rotation is in the reverse direction which can cause the chain to slacken and jump further as the opposite sides unloads. In your case, I suppose the damage has been done so if desperate you could try. Maybe with the aux belt rigged somehow to try and stop rotation.

Can you move the engine up or down to make it any better clearance wise?

From what i can see, the workshop manual just says use tool vw t10099. Is there really no room for a low profile bit?

All the ngk plugs I have replaced on vw and skoda over last 10 years are a flat washer gasket design. You can use the torque spec but equally on the plug packaging you will find the rule of thumb regards tightening after bottoming. Look at the instructions on the plug packet. If you have the mfr service guide and a torque wrench by all means use that. And when working on cars or any other me mechanical device you have to pay attention to the type of fastener you're dealing with. A torque wrench for example doesn't stop you cross threading. If I am following a rule of thumb I'd also be judicious if it felt too tight. For example: NGK 1675 PFR7S8EG Laser Platinum Spark Plug Thread Diameter14mm Thread Pitch1.25mm Seat TypeGasket Reach19mm (3/4") Hex Size5/8" (16mm) Terminal TypeSolid Overall HeightISO Gap.031" (0.8mm)

Usually bottom out and then 1/2: to 2/3 turn. Usually written on spark plug box.

Best of luck. Fingers 🤞. Do post if we can help further. Don't get riled or angry. It is not your fault. This is the most recent thread I could think of. It's the 2.0tsi version but the issues are the same. Ea888 gen 2 engine. Just capacity is different.

I wouldn't give up so easily. It is the selling dealers problem regardless if they realised or not. I'll try to link a thread or two where others have had to fight for the return of vehicle. Truth is they won't be able to repair economically so they have no choice but to refund. At what point did you first raise with them oil level low I.e oil use?

I've seen this scenario on here many many times and the same response from a used dealer who will either fob you off until you give up or explain your only option is the warranty they gave you. If they did. It is not though. You need to be clued up with the consumer rights. Exactly how long ago did you purchase, is it less than 28 days?

The part sticker plate is a genuine part number. I believe the tow bar ball and neck maybe part number eea600001A. Need to give a skoda dealer a call and enquire. Or find one at a parts dismantler but they will probably want to sell you the whole hitch set up.

Looks like meteor grey to me as well. But if you have books, there will be a sticker usually inside the service manual. Or you can pay for Erwin for 1 hour access and download the entire option code build for the car. Or you can visit your dealer with the vin and try can look up the colour code.

Yes, cam chain problems in cars and motorcycles have been around a long time but I suppose over all the engines that use them overall are pretty reliable..... I too have had a stretched or worn timing chain to deal with in the past, a mk5 Golf Twin charger at only 45k miles. Time and distance serviced so less than 10k miles between oil changes. Luckily, it did not kill the engine, but was an expensive engine to work on!

If it is a mk3 vrs diesel it must be common rail injection surely. I don't have a diesel so no direct experience. That seems low though, regens and city / urban stop start driving will hurt consumption. What's the driving mix? Does it improve dramatically on A road / motorway journeys?

It sounds like it is that. But you should dismiss possible cam and crank sensor fault. But combined with the noise it seems likely. I don't know that engine at all well, whats the engine code, shared with golf's I assume. But expect you'd be looking £700 plus as a finger in the air estimate. It will inevitably be charged higher than the scheduled diesel timing belts... Best to call a garage and ask for a quote. Better still make sure they diagnose the fault as the tensioner and camchain. Otherwise you'll have no comeback if it turns out to be not that!!

The mdi connector for these to plug into, if factory, is inside the glove box at the right hand end. If they're old ipod tails, you really need a different one with say a usb to allow you to use a thumb drive. Unless of course you have an old ipod that works.

Need a recording. Another 100k miles could be the sort of duration where you are talking chain stretch/ wear again and therefore the tensioner becomes fully extended. Only things you can really check without pulling the timing cover is the measuring block for timing adaption and the inspection hole for the tensioner in the Lower cover. Access is tight though.

See some photos posted when I cleaned the intake ports. I would avoid removing the two front guards if at all possible. Is there not some bolts it can rest on. What have you decided to do about that piston crown damage? Did you look again. And at the others. A working theory i have is that may be caused by the oil burning causing local hotter spots as the oil burns seeping past the oil control rings..

TFSI = Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection TSI = turbocharged stratified injection FSI = Fuel Stratified Injection TFSI and TSI mean exactly the same thing. And FSI is injected, but no turbo charger. TFSI and TSI are marketing terms and have been mixed and matched by AUdi, VW, Skoda Seat over the years as they feel like creating something "new" to talk about!!

Its all marketing gobblugook. But Tfsi and tsi are turbo direct injection turbo. Everything else is fluff. So a true FSI non turbo charged..

You'll be fine with one difficult bolt then, there are three in total. If your saving ££ check pipes first and you could remove the diverter and inspect the diaphragm. It is likely to be torn if faulty. On the later ccza engine yes, intake valves and ports are a problem from 60k miles due to direct injection. No fuel through the intake valves to clean. The earlier bwa I think is still direct injecton yes? It probably does suffer then but I haven't seen as much complaining about it but if DI it will. The manifold is usually not too bad. It's the Intake ports, separators and intake valves all in the head that are usually the problem.

What is your first 3 or 4 alphabetic characters of your engine number? CCZA, BWA? No it can not be blanked it will damage the turbo. They're not that pricey though an aftermarket pierburg unit probably £40 ish, if you order online, depending on your exact engine. A genuine on from a skoda garage probably £70 ish. See this video gives a pretty good view of it in the engine bay and with an engine removed. One of the bolts is tricky though as it is pretty confined. Again, depends a bit on you confirming engine. It is no where near the airbox. It is on the turbo.

Is this a tfsi, a vrs? A full scan with codes would be useful. Preferably vcds or obdeleven. As a guess and as a starting position, check all boost piping from turbo to intercooler and intercooler to throttle body. Especially connectors and joins. A faulty diverter valve is another strong contender.