TheClient

If its petrol I'd definitely go for a mk3 vrs. Unless you meant the mk7 gti which you mention a few times but I think based on you initially referring to mk6. As well as budget. I have a mk7 Golf R and had a facelift mk2 VRs. So opposite was round to what your asking, the mk2 fl used the mk6 gti engine and most running gear. The golf will be more nimble, smaller, possibly better build, seats are much better in my mk7 compared to the mk2 facelift. But as mentioned at inception. The gen 3 engine on a mk3 is a much better bet than a gen 2 in a mk6 gti. Even though I ran my gen 2 for 45k miles (35k to 80k) without any major problem. A lot are not so lucky.

Not sure, but even a fairly straight forward obd tool like torque will allow you to view boost reported by engine sensor and demanded by ecu. Or log the two. Vcds will be better and better for logging but pricey if you dont use it much. Ideally, they are very closely correlated (actual vs denanded boost pressure) . It'll be a small turbo, wouldn't be expecting huge pressure! Could be around 10psi, just a guess.

On the serial plate there maybe a manufacture date. But it is probably not that relelevant. Of course, it should last longer than 1 year. I wonder if the cause of the original was identified? As you could be repeating the prior fault. If there is a oil supply fault or oil contamination issue or restricted oil feed pipe. It will keep failing. Who replaced it. Have you been back. What do they say as to cause? What is your oil and filter change regime?

This the the part that @varooomhas identified. Different for left a d right side.

Slave is inside bell housing. Painful not an easy DIY for most. Edit. That is what that photo appears to indicate.

Very very unlikely to be a software glitch.

A couple of things. If it is the sicate issue. 1. You will probably see some evidence of it inside the coolant expansion tank. 2. If your car has the silicate bag in it will be stamped with mitt silicate. 3. I have read quite a few instances accroos a couple forums of late with matrixes being replaced without resolving the problem indicating the issue was elsewhere. I do not know the 1.6tdi but on ea888 gen 3 for example, as used in the vRS tsi, there is at least one solenoid valve that cab fail and block flow to the heater matrix. Not saying they're definitely wrong but the other possibilities need exploring and discounting first. There are some cases recorded of the matrix clogging without the silicate bag being the cause as well...

Low oil pressure a little worry. Hope pickup or pump not clogged. But hasn't come back. Turbo. Is there a diverter valve. If so it may have failed. Does the wastgate move or reach the two extremities? Vcds may allow an ouput test to simulate Underboost issue - you'd be looking for the wastegate to be stuck open or at least not fully closed

Does it feel the same as when it won't release if you say, turn engine off in "R". Then,moving lever to "p" does it then trigger the release of key every time? One would normally expect that fault log and message from the shift lever position if it is not registering the "P" microswitch. Note, turning off the car in R and trying to remove key may invoke the fault code even without that fault occurring in normal use. I've never tried it.

Look good. I couldn't deal with 19s round here. Let alone 20s like a good friend has on an audi. Broke a spring on a pothole a few months ago. Still trying to argue with council highways who say if they check it once a year they're immune from being liable!!

Well that is all in all, good news. The fault read needs to include all the subsidiary modules. You won't get a full scan of all systems with a basic ODB scanner. Worth asking the garage can / have they scanned ALL modules. VCDS or OBD eleven are used on these forums, I'm sure there are trade specific tools that also allow ALL module interrogation. Although a fair share of independent VW specialists use VCDS as their main diagnosis platform. Was common for the on/off switch on the stalk to get dirty and fail to switch on properly as well. Disassembly and a clean can resolve if that be the case.

Try throttle body basic settings. Does it complete successfully. can you hear the butterfly valve move through required range?

Amundsen MY17 by the looks. Some good info in here. I haven't read through it all to remind myself but AFAIK the android auto / car play activation is a dealer activated service. I don't think you can DIY it. Waits to be reminded differently...... Edit: @varooom responded as I was typing.

Hi. Yes. But that was before.... and this is now. Since the injector replacement you had a car properly operating for a bit but now don't. So a fault code read at release may not be the same now.. You have to start with a fault read everytime you undertake to do repairs and resolve an issue, even if you checked say last week and the fault messages the dash seems to show similar behaviour. The cruise control does sound more like a connection or switch or clutch switch fault as @pikpilotsuggests. A fault code in a full code read would often be expected for that.. it was very unlikely to magically start working by itself. I understand your reluctance to spend more cash. There is a vcds owner listing on here. I'll try to link later. If you contact someone one they may help you out for a small compensatory token or two. If I was close, I could run something for you as a start. But I doubt you are, what county are you in?

Sorry to hear about the troubles. A fault code read on obd eleven or vcds is a very good place to start. It could point to the issue with a logged fault or series of faults. If it doesn't, then the investigation starts. Is the cruise control acc with the radar or just fixed speed?

Sorry not a lot of experience on the diesels. It certainly won’t harm anything by running the priming routine once reconnected. Don’t know if it is mandated though, in workshop manual. if it’s the common rail connections to the injectors, it should only be the last leg of fuel your going to lose. Free bump for others to jump in.

I don't have them but from what I read they're not necessarily harder or too firm compared to stock with the eibach springs. So you wouldn't have to go to 17"s. That said, I reckon the 17" were the best ride comfort proposition based on my experience on a mk5 golf.. I love the look of 19s but on the roads here and the level of harshness and bone rattling I'd find then very difficult to live with despite positive appearance and say advantages on a track.

Ouch. Hope it stops there.

Oh good work. Looking at the parts diagram there is a servo motor and a flap actuator motor. You were looking at the servo motor? You try and glue the pinion gear or otherwise new replacement required.

Mmm. Bit mysterious. Throttle body? I had a 2011 vrs for 5 years and can only think of maybe 1 or 2 times it spluttered and stalled. So definitely not normal..

**Edit: For what it is worth, I would try VCDS basic settings / reset first but probably the motor is dead.*** Yeah. Spot on. That is it. On fully automatic air con, there are two actuator flap motors. One on each side of the main air dist box, Which sits in the dash behind the air con control buttons. When I first looked on the parts diagram I could only see one flap motor - on the left hand side. But that is for manual aircon, not automatic. Also note, in trying to replace parts there appears to be two manufacturer variants in use, valeo and denso and I'm pretty sure that some of the parts are not interchangeable. The parts diagrams list both separately. I think on things like the actuator motor, some versions may have a different number of teeth so beware when sourcing. Apparently they can be a bit of a pain to align too but your service notes should help! Attached is a diagram to show you lay out this one is for valeo (other is denso). Right hand flap motor item 25.

Did you try vcds to do basic settings on aircon rather than the button press sequence? Edit. Most of the hvac items are accessed on RHD by removing glovebox and passenger seat for improved access on bigger jobs. On LHD that's going to be drivers side trim off and possibly pedals. However, the right side temp flap description has me a bit unsure..

Yes, turbo assemblies = very very hot. Don't touch - obviously, just look carefully, even after switch off!!

Following the hard lines back on the car, to me it looks like the top hard line, which connects to the front of the turbo core through 2, 90 degree turns is coolant (traces back to expansion tank) and the bottom rigid line, which connects on top of turbo, looks like it connects onto the oil filter housing is likely oil feed. There will be returns for each of these further down and underneath. Have you checked oil level and how it looks on the dipstick? Smoke could be a slight leak at the banjo connection, it will be very hot, on the turbo housing so will instantly vaporise, but there doesn't seem to any visual evidence. Probably need to open bonnet after a long drive, leave running and see if you can see a drop of oil being vaporised..

Almost certain to be the 3 bolt type. For example skf vkba 6556. But do check on reg on something like autodoc. Their lookup is pretty solid 98% of time. It is still a bit of work getting off and the recessed retaining bolts in the back of hub can be a bit tricky sometimes.