TheClient

Ebay, Autodoc, euro carparts. Get a good quality after market brand not a no brand unknown, Chinese pattern part.

Well a lot is pretty general and applies accrooss other brands models as well. . Corrosion damage after accident. Maintenance required like brakes, yes well that is not new news. Early Dsg 7sp dry clutch did have some problems. As for the other specific comments electrical gremlins, door window reg failures etc. They do occur but I don't think particularly more severely than many other European marks. Some people find them quite noisy.... road noise wise. Depends on wheel tyre combo as well...

No worries. I'm sure they'll come in handy for someone else as well. Maybe racingline should print out the ecs instructions for purchasers!!😉

I got defined clunk when moving off or reversing on mine. Changed to meyle HD items. Gone. So much so the previous owner clearly thought it was the rack as had cut the retainers for the boots of the rack...

That's pretty bizarre. What has the manufacturer 3 year warranty got to do with it. And if it wasn't causing a functionality issue then, clearly they wouldn't fix it. It is still inside the 12 month warranty. Consumer rights act gives some avenues as well but require you to prove it and that will probably cost time and money you will also need to try to recover. First instance I agree escalation within skoda and the dealer you bought from best first ports of call. Rember the selling dealer assumes responsibility for consumer law. Falling that, probably ombudsmon...

You need to probably pry bar it all when in the air. But drop links are a common first go to at that sort of mileage.

Could be just compatibility with the card, difficulty recognising, maybe test a different card.

I have had the sounds of water sloshing inside door cavities even when they have not been blocked. Usually after it has rained or washed car and you first set off. There are baffles in the plastic fuel tank I believe but you can occasionally, hear some slosh from that as well at least I have in petrol models. In a quiet environment, when the car shows the trait, try to rock the car back and forth and listen from inside. maybe even back seat, that is closer to the fuel tank, above it...

ECS filter instructions in pdf attached, dealing with adaptor or retainer, or vw call it a connector piece!! Three names for the same thing.... PDF_8981_VW-Audi_2014+1.8T,_2.0T_Billet_Oil_Filter_Housing_Installation_r1.pdf

I'm assuming they are bi Xenon gas discharge? Is your light assembly 5E2941017B? That price is about right for a complete assembly. A discount code or special offer may get you a little cheaper. But to save a lot of money you will need to either i) source assembly at a wreckers (now called recycling parts centre) or ii) buy the motor separately. When purchasing from a wreckers there is always a risk the parts are damaged or not working. Make sure they will honour a dead on arrival product. Also, often retaining plastic lugs etc are damaged. You maybe able to swap over your casing or donate parts from it..... At my first glance, it seems the motor is available separately under euro100 at LLLParts https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/halogen-twin-headlights-br-for-gas-discharge-bulb/mpn/5E2941017B If the light assembly is as specified, the motor is listed as: 5E0941295 See diagram at LLLParts no. 12

Yes. You need to swap it over. You can get the connector separately yes. But the ecs guide shows you quite well. Yes, agree there is always a risk of breakage so worth thinking what you would do if the worst happens. But you will be OK I reckon. Look at the ecs installation guide. I'll try to post it later. Can't seem to do on my phone. Youre right, you can't run the car without that connector piece as I don't think there will be sufficient oil pressure without it.

There has only been two filter retainer connectors in use in ea888 gen3s. They are both pictured in the vortex thread. Despite what is written in the racing line description. It is my belief the larger unit with the springs is the latter design. Your car will have one of those two in it. You will need to swap that retainer connector over to the racing line filter. Or remove and buy a new one if damaged Ecs billet filter housing has a half decent instruction sheet and photos spelling this out. I'll try to post. Unfortunately, you can never solely rely on descriptions esp when dealing with revisions or mods. Quite often you need to eye up the parts and design and dimensions in dealing with revisions. The racing line part ref you are saying is wrong is fir their oil cooler kit. But is still requires the connector piece. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/06l115678q-connecton-pipe-32151.html Connecting piece between oil filter holder(bracket) and oil filter element. Suitable for vehicles with 1.8TSI 132kW, 2.0TSI 132kW/140kW/162kW/169kW/180kW/200kW/206kW engines. Part suitable for Škoda Octavia 3 , engines: Capacity Power Code Year 1.8 TSI 132kW/180PS L&K, 7A, 6S CJSA 11/2012 → 01/2017 1.8 TSI 132kW/180PS L&K, 7A, 6S CJSA 02/2017 → 07/2018 1.8 TSI 132kW/180PS 4x4, SC, L&K, 6A CJSB 05/2013 → 01/2017 1.8 TSI 132kW/180PS 4x4, SC, L&K, 6A CJSB 02/2017 → 07/2018 2.0 TSI 162kW/220PS RS, 6S, 6A CHHB 05/2013 → 01/2017 2.0 TSI 169kW/230PS RS 230, 6S, 6A CHHA 05/2015 → 01/2017 2.0 TSI 169kW/230PS RS, 6S, 6A CHHA 02/2017 → 07/2018 2.0 TSI 180kW/245PS RS 245, 6S, 7A DHGA 02/2017 → 09/2020 2.0 TSI 180kW/245PS RS 245, 6S, 7A DLBA 02/2017 → 09/2020

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/oil-pressure-light-after-switching-to-revised-oil-filter-housing-adapter.9253937/

probably this, there are two types of return valve plug set ups I believe. https://clptuning.co.uk/product/oil-filter-housing-adapter-06l-115-678-q/

Thanks for replying back. Guess your car is petrol? A small tip, always post your vehicle spec and particularly engine / transmission if a mechanical fault. You can put in your signature. You are more likely to get replies and replies that are close to the mark!

Doesn't sound very good!!! But who knows what the current fault code is, it maybe a co-incidence with their service work, maybe something minor, possibly something they've done but can not come to an educated view without the code read. .... I hope it is minor. You are Miles and Miles away from me but I am hopeful if you click on the link @nige8021 sent and send someone close to you a PM, you can see what is reported.

Annoying!

Very good result. Shame about the likely unnecessary replacements! But move on I guess..... Maybe worth a few words with the garage that carried out the work asking are they aware of the 2 different filters for different engine mfr dates!! A rebate of some / part / all costs???

Cinch have some good stock. Direct access to all the BCA PCP / lease stock. And convenient. Bl00dy terrible to deal with though. A year or so back they had a Seat cupra estate 290. Fair price. Looked good in the photos. Noticed it was mis described in photos, it said it had 19" diamond cut alloys. It didn't have, the photo showed 18" and a tyre size never sold on any leon model full stop. Then I ask about service history and the 200 point check.... Turns out, when they say doesn't need servicing within 3 months or whatever their strap line is. They don't mean service schedule items - only an oil change and filter! So after they gave me the stamp history for the last few services that just said oil change I rang the seat dealer for what was supposed be done at 5 years 37,000 miles. Front Haldex Brake fluid Air filter Plugs Cabin Filter DSG service Probably about £650 worth of cost to a consumer!! Eventually I worked out the replacement alloys in the wrong tyre size, were from a seat ateca. So, i escalate through the "front line". Eventually after several tries, I got called back by some "manager" in service delivery. I wouldn't say any service was delivered!! He just wanted to position it, that their checks are condition orientated, they don't check their descriptions, or what is fitted and they wouldn't pick up mis fitted items. He tried to defend the missing service items on basis of they only do oil changes when talking about servicing! After about 2 or 3 follow ups, I still wanted to buy the car but rather than take delivery and then complain about the items to be resolved, potentially wasting time and delivery costs etc to Cinch, I wanted the missing service items attended to, or an allowance in price to resolve the items. I wanted some original spec wheels and tyres fitted or an allowance. I was willing to use an ebay price for replacing with second hand wheels and tyres and estimate a resale on the already fitted alloys. I spent several days following up this with the "service deliver manager". You could never get to him directly only when he decides to call back at the most inconvenient times. Said he wanted to check the wheel tyre issue, I took a download on the vehicle pr codes and supplied to him showing it was dispatched with 19" diamond cut alloys. He took another 5 days to come back! Eventually conceding the wrong wheels and tyres were fitted. Yes, I did give you the seat PR code listing for the mfr manifest of the vehicle! After about 1 week and a half of trying to deal with the joker further, he just said Cinch "don't do negotiaiton". I said fine, I'll pay asking price with the faults and mis fitted items that were not as described resolved..... He said no, he'll take off sale and do some due dilligence......... I said this is a terrible way to deal with a customer who wants to hand over money and resolve a few things before taking delivery. A customer who has spent hours looking into what needs resolving and endless phone calls to Cinch to try and get resolved before delivery.... He ignored me, took off sale, went back on a few weeks later for £400 or so more with the proper wheels fitted...... Probably without carrying out the outstanding service work - chancing that as well. Wrote to customer service director complaining of their approach, mis description un willingness to put things right on a vehicle I waned to buy and underhanded tactics.. No response ever received. So, based on that I've vowed never to consider Cinch for buying a car!! PS. OP - Long rant but I'm sure the garage will be able to fix your squeaky brake issue without too much cost or hassle. Who knows, Cinch might even feel benevolent and live up to their promises!!

Hey. I wouldn't feel demoralised. You got a full refund? Result. That's what you were entitled to. Some sleepless nights and hassle but behind you now. A few ££ in purchases (I would of taken them out) and a few more grey hairs. You will cope with that. I usually cancel tax online. You need to do that or call, rather than just cancel direct debit. They only give you back full months tax too, so you will lose 2 months if in second month. not sure what reference you need, probably the tax doc when you taxed it. But otherwise I'm sure you could call and look up somehow. I don't know what to suggest car wise. I had a 2011 vrs estate for 5 years. No real problems other than what I'd call maintenance and intake valve clean. It never let me down and it used minimal oils. But there is an inherent design weakness with the tensioner and the piston rings. And I sold at 70k miles . Edit. I also paid to have the tensioner changed on the day I bought it. Other brands have had design and failure issues as well. Just steering clear of a mk 2 fl vrs doesn't guarantee success. I guess the advice I could give is buy from a reputable dealer who has been trading for some time. Monitor things carefully in first 30 days. Maybe even drive a long trip deliberately. And know your rights, I.e don't fall for the warranty is what we do for repairs!! You could try a common rail diesel fl vrs I think they are pretty reliable generally. Or even a petrol if you're feeling brave. But on balance, given age and mileage you may want to steer clear unless for example you can talk to owner or buy from a very reliable honest person. There are classifieds on here for example. Second hand cars. Always a risk!!

Mk2 fl. Ccza? If you search on autodoc they are a pretty reliable search and cross reference to oem quality parts. Only occasionally does the search turn up a few non suitable parts like for another variant. Put your reg in, search injectors or even try the injector part number and it will probably return seals as well. My seals were changed as a part of the ansu cleaning and testing when I did the intake port carbon clean. From memory, vw sell a whole repair kit, which is all the seals and the spring clip and stand off bracket something like £16 per pack. They may just do the o ring fuel rail separately as well. But definitely elring or someone else does if you lookup on autodoc. Incidently, I have 1 x brand new seal spring clip set as a surplus item when I did work.

Hi. Oh. It's not good when you can't sleep. Try not to worry. I would say to be fair, none of this is really your fault. It can catch experienced motor traders out. Oh and vw aren't the only ones to have some longer term faults that are difficult to diagnose. All you can do is research the car model and the engine type / code on forums and buy from a reputable dealer. Question. Did you pay by credit or debit card? Yes, you should but something in writing as soon as possible confirming when the fault was raised and previous discussion. That; 1. The car has a significant oil consumption fault of x litres per 1000 miles. 2. The car is not of satisfactory quality. 3. Had it been totally clear during the first 30 days you would of rejected vehicle. But limited mileage in first 30 days prevented this. 4. The fault is presumed to be there from purchase. 5. The warranty does not extinguish consumer rights. 6. You don't wish to proceed with a warranty claim, repair. As you, the dealer have said on xx you do not repair vehicles, only warranty claims, I would like to return the vehicle. I will be dropping the vehicle and keys to you on xx x and hand back the log book. I expect a refund of purchase price on the same day. Failure to do so, will invoke legal proceedings and is likely to add to my claimed costs.

A couple of things. 1. I can't see you will get much from Halfords. And I wouldn't be participating in the warranty claim process. You are not obliged to and it is in addition to the statutory consumer rights. Usually lots of hoops, push back, excesses, max claims etc. It just very rarely works out. But if you are just going with a preliminary assessment ok. But whose paying the excess... And what if they say all is fine, no evidence of a problem. It has happended before. Ultimately, I can't see you are going to get a lot from it. You don't need an expert opinion to prove the oil usage. You have experienced and reported it. It is up to the dealer to disprove it and they won't be able to. If you really wanted to you could pay skoda or rated independent for an "oil consumption test" before returning vehicle as faulty. 2. There are many posts covering the oil consumption issues on the 1.8 and 2.0tsi. The 1.8 seems to be more widely criticised but it could be just the in service volumes of the motor. But it might add some context for the dealer, for info only, but it doesn't explain your vehicle fault until it can be established. Just because say 10% or 20% for example, of the engines between 2009 and 2011 have had oil ring clogging and excessive oil consumption doesn't automatically mean yours does. But I think it likely it does. The only fault context you need to provide is the excessive oil consumption witnessed over the first 30 days. 3. It is not the selling dealers choice to decide that they do not do repairs. In that case, reject and refund. You have no obligation to pursue a warranty claim. It does not extinguish statutory rights. 4. Regarding fairness. It is a difficult situation but one which is clearly laid out in law. Yes, you may be correct, the dealer may have test driven, visually inspected and put up for sale. But that is his risk, as the law makes him liable for fitness, satisfactory quality and (major) fault free in 6 months anyway. They have the motor industry experience, they could research, inspect, test vehicle, they sold you a faulty car, it is unfortunate but it is there responsibility solely. You do not get the same rights when buying privately. The AA has a decent summary of rights. You probably know all this by now though. https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

I thought it was the consumer rights act 2015 that took over from the sale of goods act. But in any case the provisions may be aligned. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/15/section/23/enacted Yes, I would say the oil usage has been present from day 1. So the fault is there from day 1. The trouble is you haven't realised until right at the 30 day period as you've driven relatively few miles. Not enough to confirm the oil usage until very close to expiry. I'd also raise that as a talking point with the selling dealer when you ask to reject. 6 months is assumed to be sold with fault unless selling dealer can prove otherwise. With so few miles driven and a likely significant engine problem the law is likely in our favour there. Technically they have one attempt to repair. But unless you trust what they are going to do and who they are going to use and the parts they will replace with new I would push for rejecting being the easier option for the dealer to honour and better from your side. The issue is, will they try to cover up with a minor repair or some magic oil sealer and hope it gets the car to 7 months. Then you've got to prove the linkage to the existing repaired fault, which may not be impossible but it turns the responsibility back to you in establishing everything. I'm also doubtful Halfords will give you much to run with and they haven't seen / measured the oil usage themselves, which you would want to establish independently if needing to rely on any reports. But the facts are you know it is using excessive oil and you know it is more than likely going to be a significant fault and the fault is assumed to have been there from the start. Conversation with the selling dealer required to establish if they will accept rejection. If not, then what repair are they offering. Make it clear you want detail of what is done. Make it easier for them to accept rejection. Whatever, they say don't get into the warranty discussion, excesses, max cover it is a distraction and completely separate to the statutory rights.

Its a cr@p situation. See what halfords say but the underlying cause and fix is likely to be way over their expertise. They are really complicated engines to work on. The early edition tensioner were a very real problem. Who knows what the failure rate was except maybe vw themselves but it was enough to make press as a widespread issue across vag marques . It's not guaranteed to happen by a certain mileage,but on an early edition tensioner it was simply a matter of when not if... The rathchet teeth would break or spring clip pop off That, combined with chains that stretched was a recipe for carnage. It if came your way. As to your problem. You need to be firm. And well versed in your rights. And as you have done keep records in writing and even note phonecalls... If you raised issue before 30 days that may welk give you rights to reject. If not, then under the law they can repair. But if you make it clear you want a full assessment, report and strip down and repair by a dealer or certified vw garage, it will start to scare the selling dealer. Your hope here is if you are going to be thorough and demanding it will be easier for them to accept a return..