TheClient

Two people will be able to remove and refit the head. I've bought some borsehung components before, mainly suspension. Not timing chain or valves. Almost everyone recommends using oem chains and tensioner because even the genuine ones have had so many revisions you don't necessarily know what you'll be getting with equivalent parts in aftermarket. Same with valves aren't they some sodium composite things. Maybe that's the exhaust valves. But then again at the moment your engine is toast so if you can get it back running using whatever parts you can maybe you don't need to worry. FYI the camshaft timing chain parts using genuine parts is circa £350 and that includes a new lower cover as they're often damaged. That doesn't include second or tertiary plane chains or tensioner for oil pump or balance shafts. Valves no idea, I'll see if I can see them listed separately but it maybe vw recommend exchange heads. I did read somewhere there were machine shops in the US of A having difficulties getting the right composition valve guides to match the oem valves and in the end they stopped head rework in these engines as they couldn't guarantee longevity.

Useful but you can't remove the lower cover without removing the driver side engine mount.

I have a detailed thread on here entitled something like CCZA oil leak, intake leak or such like, with details of a similar looking oil leak and the cause was the intake PCV system at the turbo elbow higher up. I'll see if I can find the links and post. If you look at your photos I believe the oil is coming from higher up or at least there is a source higher up as well. But if there is no significant consumption, I wouldn't worry too much. Have you ever replaced the fine oil separator on top of engine? I prefer vw502.00 5w40 but each to their own. IN some markets VW / skoda actually mandated specific oils in the EA888 gen 2 which did not include LL5W30. I'm too scared to run engine flushes these days, mostly because I buy used cars, not new, like 5 years old, I don't know their exact history or exactly what was done. And I don't trust one oil flush every 6 or 7 years to not create more problems than what is resolves. Especially in terms of where the flushed particles end up being embedded or clogged elsewhere, these engines are very fussy with regards to cleanliness, but I am sure others will swear by them. I'd be more comfortable if I owned the car from new and did one every oil change... A

Yes. The timing chains and head can be done from above. An engine support bar would be useful. That piston skirt damage is where you're going to come unstuck though?

Yeah. The trouble with a used engine is a) has it had a updated and revised chain and tensioner and b) how severe oil usage does it have, has it had the upgraded pistons, rings, conrods? the realistic likelihood of being able to confirm all that on a used engine is very very unlikely. So what you really need is a rebuilt engine for even more £s. Unfortunately, you are very much not alone in this. And problems with stretched chains and failed tensioners go back before the ea888 and has affected other makes as well.. but none of that helps you.

I have heard ceretec potentially causes issues with rubber, as it is still minetal based, but I have used it rebuilding brakes on a mk5 golf and mk2 vrs and got 5 years or more out of rebuilt brakes. If the pin had a tight interference fit with a rubber bush, rather than just a bellows or protective cover, I think I'd worry a bit more and consider other options. I'll note that trw grease for a next purchase! I use ceratec sparyingly on metal pins and slides but not on rubber parts directly.

It does seem a large variation. I suppose it is the aftermarket catalogue where they try to consolidate offerings so you end up with a one fits all say for example combi tailgate or hatch even though they require different forces specified by original parts. Similar things can happen with suspension springs.

Bummer.! That third photo is a worry. It does look like a chip but is right on the edge of the piston pre-made relief isn't it? I fear the whole job is becoming uneconomic unless you're very attached to the car and would like to spend a substantial sume to keep ot for another say 5 years plus? That head repair with 8 valves and possible valve guides reseating etc. How much would an engineering shop charge. I know is the us garages usually go for a vw exchange head for piece of mind and speed. And the retail on the whole job incl timing chain is around 4k USD. Imagine it would be similar in euros. And you've still got this potential piston replacement. And even if not, increasing oil usage. I guess if you did all the disassembly and reassembly it could just about justify itself. But it's a big job even without pistons rings, and the upgraded parts required new conrods from memory as well. So sad and disappointed for you.

Phew.

Yeah. I've used ceratec and didn't have problems. To check part numbers you will need to confirm brake size / type or better the pr code for the brakes fitted.

They're usually in the alternator aren't now they?. I think you need a new or exchange alternator.

Looking on autodoc with the oem part number it produces a number of manufacturer struts, with varying force from 390N to 460N And stroke 235 to 245 mm. The Monroe ML5665 for example is listed as 405N. Sgs struts are usually OK as well I've used them once.

If the head units proven, amplifier proven, wiring proven, it must be speakers are faulty no?

0402N is 402 Newton metres isn't it. I would go with that if the 460N is feeling inappropriate. 18 years? In estates I'm lucky to get 6 or 7 years before needing replacement!!!

That tpi is helpful but not complete by any means. A fault code is not guaranteed and the op has the crank to cam correlation which is not menrioned in that TPI but is often an indicator.

Does your car have driving modes. Normal individual, sports. These will change steering weighting?

What year is your mk3? In the golf mk7, mine is a my16, it was a common fault for the airbag to rattle on the containment area inside the steering wheel. I removed it and packed with some rigid foam in a few places. But after a few months it's back. Apparently an updated airbag fixed the problem but replacing an airbag for a rattle seemed a bit ott even for me!

Yes, I tend to agree. An engine running, then roughly, then nothing. And now no compression, on any cylinders . I'd be thinking that bent valves are the result and timing chain slip the cause.

I'd probably start by removing the upper plastic timing cover. This would allow you to measure distances from the links. You could also try to feel for chain slack, although not sure how successful that would be as it is right at the top at the sprocket. I can dig you out some instructions if you want. DAP / Humble mechanic has a couple of good videos as they do a lot on the 2.0 tsi. The 1.8 is of the same ea888 family. The Erwin repair manual which will probably cost about 10 euro for access not a bad idea before embarking on the project. Another thought, if you take the pcv / fine oil separator off the top of the engine you can see in the cam cover particularly the intake valves lobes and actuators. This is a fairly quick job 30 mins. Be careful with the plastic tube connectors (fragile) and do not drop anything into the aperture where it is removed. But I am virtually certain you have a slipped timing chain. The questions is, is there valve damage?

Oh dear. zero psi in all cylinders is not good. It would be impossible to start an engine at all with 0 psi in all cylinder. So, yes, it seems to me that it has to be that starting the engine when running rough has caused further slippage and possible overhead cam gear or valve damage. If you're really lucky I guess it has slipped enough to cause zero compression but not hit the pistons given your inspection. A better or different field of view borsescope would be useful to see if the valves are still moving. Or you could take the intake manifold off, a few hours job, probably 3 hours to disassemble first time though. Does give you a chance to decarbon the intakes and get injectors tested and cleaned. Yes, if you want to remove the upper cover you will need a trolley jack and a wide piece of wood to support the engine on the sump. Jack until it has taken pressure. Remove engine mount. This should allow you to check the timing marks and distance per specs. But it seems impossible to explain sudden and immediate zero compression on all cylinders with any other cause especially with the pistons confirmed as intact and moving. Did you perform the compression test on the starter motor. Several times? Edit: By the way. that is an old style tensioner. Very susceptible to failing but doesn't look like it has failed totally in the normal way. However, it looks a long way extended but I can't count the teeth due to the angle of the shots. Access is better with engine mount off.

I haven't heard the rear cargo area side windows leaking. The seals are pretty good. But nothing is impossible! If it was a problem I think I'd get new seals and a bodywork place to fit. I also had a 2011 mk2 combi for 5 years 2016 to 2021 but didn't have any leaks whatsoever. I have seen those vents leak though in other vw cars. Re: google not sure if you're genuinely surprised at google search or being a bit sarcastic. But what I mean is if you search "Briskoda Octavia Mk2 rear wheel well water leak" you're far more likely to find what your looking for than the search function inside briskoda based in my experience over the last 5 or 6 years,

Is this your engine model? What a faff. Other option is removing intake manifold.

I think we are going to need a photo. What is actually in the way. Fuel line, breather line, wiring loom. Could you use an articulated socket joint to allow you to turn away from the obstruction and at a different angle?

whats the issue with the no 2 plug? Can't get the coil pack off?

Yes. There's a number of posts but search in Google rather than inside briskoda usually has more success. On the estate, most commonly: Rear tailgate aperture perimter seal filling with water and draining inside. Rear cabin pressure vents failed seals letting in water. Rear lights or light seals. Boot bungs or grommets missing or deteriorated.