TheClient

That connector issue is strange. Is your is 165 version definitely the vw version? Why does the woofer have 4 pins? Only 2 would be connected to the woofer voicecoil. 2 must be redundant. Not used? The tweeter install is acknowledged in the install manual. You'll need to modify the tweeter cover and glue in the new tweeter. In the Focal IS 165 VW install manual there are b&w photos of the connectors and they look the same as @FergalK photos. Admittedly they are not full close ups in the OP post but from what I could say look same / similar.

***Just noticed the op post was 7 months ago. I'll leave reply for others..**** The black thing is just a bung to allow you to see inside the door but then replace to seal off moisture and noise. Is your car standard speakers? Ie not canton with external amp? I really really doubt there is any crossover employed before the drivers them selves. The tweeter probably has a cap on it? I'd say the wires are just in parallel. If that's the case you could use either as the input to the jbl crossover. I'd suggest trying it at low volumes b4 install. If there is a crossover employed to either the woofer plug or tweeter plug it will be obvious when you test with the jbls. It won't damage anything. You'll need to either cut the connector or source an adaptor.

Not a special tool. Usually a spanner or pliers to unbolt from exhaust and release connector. They are not very cheap though. Originals will be £150 plus. You should probably remove and test. Also a better VW specific scan like VCDS will tell you which o2 sensor it is referring to. I can't tell from that fault code. There is probably at least 2, one upstream and one downstream of the cat.

Most obvious is a faulty 02 sensor.. have you cleared and does it return? Is the car standard?

I'd let it settle for a week or 2. Other than that you'd have to get shorter springs on the rear.

I'm sure it will be doing another 85,000 using 1 litre per 500 miles. It is only another 170 litres of oil after all to burn through the combustion chamber. Deposits? Nah I'm pretty sure you and your mechanic wont notice. You're obviously on a gold ticket so stick with it.

Is that the part you've removed that is faulty? Is there no part codes on it anywhere? It looks like it visually. Although you may want to pay close attention to connector form. (By the looks of the diagram the three are all different. One on the turbo, one b4 catalyst, one post catalyst The part number your refer is the one on b4 the catalyst. ) £157 plus delivery on skoda-parts.com. Retail price probably about right. Some non genuine options on autodoc. Around 60 or 70 plus delivery. A genuine item on bay for £100. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VW-BEETLE-GOLF-EXHAUST-GAS-TEMERATURE-SENDER-03L906088J-/144151473917?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Are u sure it is not an electrical connector or wiring issue first before throwing a replacement at it.

Hi Welcome.

You can get injectors cleaned and tested including spray pattern on an ansu machine. That's what I did when I removed and cleaned the intake manifold. It's not cheap cheap, around £100 for four but that usually incl new seals and gives piece of mind you are not putting anything back faulty. I don't know for sure what your issue is. Obviously there is a suspicion it is related to the remedial work but could be just co-incidence. Thinking about your explanation maybe the sounds is the pressure regulator in the hpfp if noticeable when fuel is not being supplied. Did it do this ticking immediately or has it taken some time? It seems most likely you are going to have to reprove the installation and test the other injectors and replace. After that I suppose the hpfp maybe a go to for focus.

Once had a Ford focus hatch 2006 that did that. In the end they had to spray foam inside some of the rear panels. Could be boot rubbers, tried some silicon spray on seals? Could remove rear bumper and assess if it still does it if you can do that safely...

Unfortunately and disappointingly it will just give up due to that usage. And it will foul plugs and kill coil packs. But replacing those is just a temporary fix which is unlikely to last a lot longer now you're on 85k. It is very surprising you've survived this long but I doubt it was using the same amount at 4k miles or even 14k miles, as it is now. The problem gets worse over time. No pleasure for any of us in saying this.

Yeah. Another victim. As per @paulskiI would try a cheaper option first. Either remove the matrix or disconnect pipework in engine bay and flush there. Engine block and rad will need draining and flushing as well. For now turn heating to cold and do not move to warm. If you are handy you need to remove the bag and probably empty the reservoir of contamination to peevent it getting any worse. Or take it somewhere asap.

probably replacing the whole control arm with new console bushes? Still £1100 over that timeframe not really an issue. Bites hard into the wallet at present though with other pressures.

That fault sounds like the pump is dead. Unless wiring is suspect.

The tsi 230 uses a IHIS20. I don't think it uses VNT. So what you are asking about is the wastegate actuator. The ECU controls this, it is an electronic servo on the turbo I think on the mk3. (previously was a solenoid and vacuum actuator). The actuator pushes a rod connected to the wastegate arm. Vw / skoda / audi will not replace the actuator alone, only the whole turbo assembly. You may need to take to a turbo specialist. See two images attached.

I just go with bottoming out the sealing gasket and 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn. No more.

More than likely NGK PLFER7A8EG (94833) for aftermarket (check catalogue). OEM will be equivalent with maybe minor changes like vag label. Don't know what genuine cost but aftermarket NGK as listed about £50 for 4. Probably 30 min to fit. You need a plug socket, long reach extension. Some way of moving the coil packs up as they can stick and be quite tight.

Was the other post, a solenoid fault so the car is actually overheating in some location in the cooling system or just an electrical gremlin? I guess a place to start is find where all the coolant temp sensors are and test them electrically if you can.

Even on long life the maximum is 24 months, 20k miles. If your car was most recently serviced in 2019, it must be overdue? Regardless, I'm not a fan of service intervals longer than 12 months / 10k miles. Some engines especially do not appreciate very extended oil change intervals. 10k miles is still a lot IMO. I feel more comfortable with 6-8k mile interval. I remember when I was first driving and my mum had a newish Honda prelude their interval was 3 months, 3k miles for oil changes!! 10K miles is a lot in itself from 1 oil change. Time also plays some part as well..

Yes. but proving the fault was there at purchase, does not mean you have to prove it was leaking at purchase! My interpretation is it is more proving that there is a durability / production / design issue meaning it fails prematurely, and that was present from purchase.... Nothing to lose. You don't have to be unreasonable or harsh, just state facts as you see them and ask for their help under the act......

Well it would be worthwhile sending a well worded letter and follow up phone call to the director or dealer principal of the selling dealer. I would assert your rights under the consumer rights act that the fault present now, is not as a result of fair wear and tear and is a durability / fitness for purpose issue. If you've got anything in writing or you can quote as to cause from the repairing / servicing dealer that would be useful. Or a views as to whether it is wear and tear. The onus is on you to prove it is not wear and tear, and you may need a report, but a lot depends on the attitude of the selling dealer to your complaint as to what you do or if it is worthwhile. Forget contacting the selling dealer service department and talking goodwill from VWUK. The consumer rights act means you have to deal with the selling dealer direct and it is up to them what they do in the background in seeking their own support from VWUK. It does not directly affect the outcome to you. This is assuming there is no extended or current warranty in play. The slight distraction is the 3 year oil change that may not have been done by the service dealer. If the other dealer was to point the finger you would have to think carefully about whether this has contributed.... Given the age and mileage I severely doubt it but it maybe an out they are looking for. I'd not mention it unless it comes up.

Is the dealer where you have had servicing the same dealership that sold you the car?

I had the mirror out today. The casing is very tight. My pry tools wouldn't get under it. Need something thinner. Maybe a pry tool for mobile phone.... the casing did seem to flex away so guessing its not plastic welded shut.

If it is R12 does anyone know the form factor required. Voltage spec etc. Would this be suitable? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/surface-mount-resistors/8123353?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Passive_Components_Whoop-_-Surface+Mount+Resistors_Whoop-_-8123353&matchtype=&pla-303459575198&gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-Ouw0fW1_ipXyXPWW3YygVurXRXjeCgo7Fp1bzjJim8sSRqSX-J12IaAsD1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yes, thanks. I'd seen that thread heaps of time. Never got to the end with the pcb fix! May pull mine apart. on the mk7 in the infotainment under lighting there is no option for main beam assist delection. Only if car fitted with DLA. Octavia must be set up slightly differently. So if I leave my lights on auto, the first time you push the lights for full beam, you get light assist faulty on the dash and a ping.....