TheClient

What part numbers are version 20 vs A5. Are the latter HBA installable in a car that had an older version? I have a golf mk7 with HBA. The module is faulty and reports module check sum error from when I bought the car used at 5yrs. But because of the mixed feedback i have never bothered trying to sort it.... My part no. is: Address 20: High Beam Assist. (J844) Labels:| 8X0-857-511.clb Part No SW: 5G0 857 511 D HW: 5G0 857 511 D Component: FLA H05 0002 Revision: AA001001 Coding: 02028864727264565625393E01 Shop #: WSC 00028 028 00066 ASAM Dataset: EV_HighBeamAssisAU37X 001009 ROD: EV_HighBeamAssisAU37X.rod VCID: 2B030D21E385F0630A1-807E

Sorry about that. They're complicated engines with quite a lot to keep in mind whilst assembling. I've no direct experience only what I've read on timing chain failures. I doubt the controls and pistons are unserviceable. You'll be able to see how much of a whack the piston has got with the head off again!

What oil spec are they using and what is the specified oil capacity of the engine?

As above probably the secondary circ pump. Do a full autoscan. They do fail and usually report a dtc.

I think you might be overthinking things; light throttle, no labouring, it will depend on the terrain and your desired acceleration.

Sounds OK. But noises are a late sign of stretched chains and failing tensioner. I'm not that familiar with your engine, you need to research and satisfy yourself how much of a problem it is. Ie frequency. Skoda dealers won't always know or play cards close to chest, even give bad advice in some cases on here.

It's the clock spring or also referred to as a slip ring.

Ok. That is good. I fear you maybe taking off the manifold again though. Obviously try the easier things first and even the £80 for a new genuine pcv would be worthwhile maintenance, especially if it has never been replaced.

If it is still reporting p2015 after clearing he new one has a problem and the ecu won't be moving the flaps in operation. But not the cause of the over rich code.

Would usually give a camshaft correlation DTC though? 02 sensor too maybe suspect.

Seems like there is a fault with the new intake manifold then. If replacing a carbon clean will be required. I've seen how mine looked at 69k miles and it was making mine misfire under light throttle and at idle. Beyond that normal maintenance items should be checked / replaced. Plugs, airfilter, clean Maf sensor maybe coil packs but usually coil backs would fault under load. PCV fine oils separator can cause too rich / lean codes and is a known failure item anytime after about 5 years. If all the easier items don't solve it then perhaps injectors but again you will have access to those with the IM off and I would suggest sending them off for cleaning and bench testing.

Yes thanks. not concentrating I was assuming wrong way round (original ET46, replacement ET51). Either way that combination wouldn't have been a problem. ET35 likely a different story. Tks

I haven't used the app one click options but my understanding is that is the issue, they may be a solution for one car but not all cars and you can't really see all the changes to revert.

What codes is it pulling? Injector?

P2015 is the intake runner flaps in the intake manifold and wouldn't be connected to the too rich bank 1 code which must be different? How many miles have you ever done decarbon contamination to the intake ports. 2 jobs in one on the table there...

5mm is not a lot. . The superb wheel is going to be 5mm furthet back from the arches. As a spare wheel I wouldn't expect a problem. Check clearances to strut on existing wheels.

More than likely very similar fit. Check wheel offset et stamped on inside of rim.

Different engine injection system. Regarded as a better diesel engine especially with extra pollution gear and dpf management.

Yes OK. Well and good but have you seen how many 1.8tsi gen 2s have had oil consumption issues without external leaks. If this is time critical so far as your consumer rights I'd exercise them now.

No they weren't clunking all the time but only when taking up drive from standstill even then, not every time. There were no obvious signs of play in mine either. Top mount and bearing is another go to for noisey suspension.

If there's an evap problem in addition to timing chain issues 2 x problems but should of diagnosed both in one go and fixing both whilst in repair quote. Edit reading diagnosis the kns they've listed is p2015 which will require a new intake manifold. Not cheap. Anyway ask them not to charge you for diagnosis a second time did they see p2015 when doing the original diagnosis? If so it's a bit of a con to come back for a second hit!

Ok. I couldn't feel any play in the drop links either but they must have been clunking as it has stopped!

Driveshafts been checked? could also be stabiliser drop links. On my mqb golf r, I was getting a noticeable clunk sound often when taking up drive or going from fwd to reverse and changing both drop links cured it.

Erwin will give you the vehicle option pr code list and any service guides you care to download. You have to pay for 1hr access around 8 euro. I've never had success with any free vin sites. . That said you probably don't require this for most regular run of the mill servicing

It is usually towards the bottom of A that the oil light should go on. As @roottoot says measuring the exact level can be a science in itself. Even a slight movement f the car being checked off level will show an altered reading. It doesn't sound good though. 300 miles and you've had oil light on twice. If you bought from a business seller I'd be thinking about hand back rights as it is a very expensive fix to sort out. You should review options. Exactly how long and from whom did you purchase?