TheClient

I don't think there is an option in infotainment under lighting. Not for main beam assist. Only dynamic light assist (If fitted). Not in the golf mk7 anyway. So would need to try to deactivate through coding. Mines broken in my mk7 R too. Checksum error....

The controller is in the mirror afaik. Not sure about coding out.

On the ea888 gen 2 I can tell you carbon build up is a real problem from 60k miles onwards. Sometimes less. But I agree with most comments and suggestions in the last few posts. The impact I had from carbon build up was more at light throttle / cold starts much less obvious on motorway and higher loads. But this was on a 2.0 ccza. A change of the fuel filter (if it is not a tank integrated item) wouldn't hurt. Beyond that I believe the OP needs a well respected vw / audi or independent to diagnose this properly. There's lots of possibilities and if it is not the obvious,coil packs, plugs, air fuel filters it makes a considered and structured approach important. And by diagnostics I don't just mean reading codes. They may need to do some data logging or rule in out certain things like valves leaking using good old mechanical techniques as well. Too much guessing without being able to start work methodically through a diagnostic test checklist with the car to hand.

Mk2 should be electric rack no? I'd check battery voltages first, when has battery been replaced?

The vibration may or may not be related. (i.e. could be a separate issue?) Vibration often from mis firing even if only minor and at low revs could cause it (say plugs or coil packs or fuel injectors). Or could be clutch / flywheel problems. If the missing is very minor it may not bring on the eml. What is the miles on the car>?

I cab hear it. Did the mechanic not have any ideas. It sounds like overhead running gear. Hydraulic tappets maybe. Question is it a characteristic or is it abnormal? May need another car the same to compare..

they don't look anything amazing. The tweeter alone looks to be 5E0035411H https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/speakers-sound-systems-installation-material-headphone/5e0035411h-canton-tweeter-for-vw-skoda/ The complete trim 5E0837973A (with tweeter I presume). still not sure of the cross over set up. You may need to run a capacitor on the tweeter, could email cars-equipment and ask....

Hi @Zedoner welcome to BS forums. The op posted 2 months ago and hasn't returned none the less future searchers may we come accross this thread. I don't disagree with most of your general points they are some of the vulnerabilities of the platform. A few others as well. That said some of those sorts of issues will be present accross other marques as well.. probably with others of their own.. Just a couple of specific points. Is yours a 2008 vRs. Possibly ea113 / bwa engine. If so it's quite different mechanically to the ea888 ccz engines in facelift vRSs. If the op was looking at a petrol facelift 12/13 it will be the later engine. If your fans are flattening your battery it is likely a fan control unit faulty. Many posts on here. If your car likes a bit of oil I'd try vw502.00 5w40 rather than 0-30 which will be quite thin and subject to higher consumption but better fuel economy. Which is why the oil grades get lower and lower. Unless your in a very cold climate. I've not been in a lexus for a long long while but as you mention, from what I remember, the build quality was very good.

This self study link seems to work. SSP401 for the 1.8 tsi. Otherwise there is a slightly different one for the 2.0 tsi CCZ. https://cardiagn.com/vag-self-study-program-ssp/ Also, if paying for erwin for the repair manual, make sure you subscribe on the skoda site otherwise your vin will not be recognised, there is also erwin for vw, seat, etc. Although most of the mechanical repair manuals will be the same, your vehicle won't be recognised, it may make searching more difficult.

I think I have the entire self study manual but it is big and there is not much else on the timing set up. The original image from @TygerTyger looks like it is from a vw repair manual from Erwin which you can download after paying about euro12 for 1 hours access. It will have all the vw repair manuals available for the car vin you enter. usually well worthwhile if you are doing maintenance and repairs yourself.

Get the part number for the canton or look at the part. It may have a different wiring plug, you could fix that. If it is designed to work with a crossover, which is probably likely you would need to run a cross over or solder a capacitor in line to filter low frequency. There are probably multiple decent options other than canton. Try google search as I don't have any specific experience of the mk3 tweeter. sometime you can adapt the original tweeter trim by removing the old tweeter but it depends on the design, size where they are mounted etc.... Someone else who has upgraded maybe able to offer more specific advice...

Does sound like a flap malfunction. Or a joint has popped off. Can you get a full vcds scan? That should report a flap problem. I'm not sure there is a button sequence for non climate reset. You could try googling. But if you get the full vcds scan done there should be a basic settings function within hvac settings.

You don't have the centre arm rest vents then. Only under seat? Did they ever work. They may only activate with one setting e.g. maybe when feet vents selected? Have you tried all options with fan at max to detect any air flow?

... .Because your car won't have coil packs. No diesel will. The dash light is probably glow plugs but that won't be the underlying problem whilst driving

Yes, sounds like front assist. There should be an option in the multifunction display of the entertainment unit to deactive it (front assist). That being the case then you need to do some googling for adding ACC to front assist. There may be retrofit places that do it or it might be DIY able. It will definitely require setting up and coding, I'd expect some parts or wiring even with front assist. I'll try to see what I can find later, otherwise someone on here may have more direct experience of the retrofit...

It's quite a complicated retrofit. If there is no front assist, I would guess £1000 in parts plus quite a bit of time.... I do find it very useful though. Luckily standard on a golf R.

I've seen injector faults flooding engine on here without codes. Especially if leak down problem. But not sure that is aligned with your problem. What a mare, I have the same year car for 5 years and I did all the maintenance apart from a timing chain and tensioner change when I bought it. But they are a bugg3r to work with when not looked after or being difficult. An engine builder who reuses gaskets and ancillary consumables is a worry. That makes me concerned. Maybe an oil pump problem? I'm guessing now. Have they checked pressure? What is the relationship to the place in Kent it was sent to?

I don't think there is a second line of defence. Maybe some antisiphoning flaps etc. But the design of the fuel flap and fuel cap collar may have minimised or even eliminated water entry. You need a new fuel cap. You can get aftermarket. Given the risk. a drain off of some of the fuel tank may not be a bad idea after leaving for a while to settle. Then again, it may be unnecessary, but how will you know and what are the consequences: Hint; Bad.

Our felt a bit like that. The rear springs were sagged the dampers were original but seemed OK. New springs and wheel alignment helped significantly. Edit. If the car is lowered or sagged it adds more negative camber so you can also adk the aligner to back that off as much as possible as well.

The washer bottle and wiper not working. Must be switch? Rear wiper motor does fail. Ours was unreliable after 6 or 7 years. Replaced with a magnetti morelli item.

Been there done that. Exactly same circumstance. I had to use a mini hacksaw to cut the aluminium collar that was fused to the shaft. The collar is grooved and with corrosion fuses to the shaft. Twisting is very difficult to remove it has to be pull off or cut. Just be careful and font cut full depth so you don't damage shaft. It will break off once mostly cut through..

Ummmmm. Maybe read the sticky at top of threads. But mid to late 2012 will have resolved a lot of the weaknesses.

It could be coils. They do fail. As @-mike- says swap positions around and see if misfire cylinders move. The cable tie trick works quite well or you can get a coil puller tool but then tend to vary with different designer coil packs. A little dialetric grease on the coil pack seals can help subsequent removal. Also, the other obvious go to is plugs. How old are they?

Shouldn't need it. I had a later vw head unit in a mk5 golf and it remembered it following initial installation when changing battery. If you are worried get a solar charger for cig lighter port or rig up clips and extension wire to keep 12v to one of the two batteries throughout change.

Thanks @PetrolDave and @langers2k. As I've come to expect lots of info there.... Mmm. ok. so mine is defo lowline!! And on Golf R bi-xenons and a replacement windscreen I suppose the value in use of the HBA could be .......... variable.... Probably back to putting up with the DTC, error and when using high beam the instrument cluster warning and when lights are on auto no high beam indicator on dash!