TheClient

Your selling garage is - I believe, deliberately dragging feet and not responding properly to the complaint. My suggestion a while ago was return within 30days if you can but certainly you want the complaint registered within 6 months as that is the statutory protections where the fault is to have assumed to existed at purchase... That plug doesn't look great. I think it's burning a fair bit of oil. Not all use oil. Mine's done 92k miles now and still using about 1litre in 3000 miles. But I had a gen 2 that used virtually none in 6k miles. And the gen 3 is supposed to be better. Mine is also leaking some oil especially on the valve cover internal wells and back of engine and possibly weeping on head gasket in some places as well although it is hard to distinguish if the source is the valve cover on back of engine due to access and turbo. Not much visible with an IS38 in an golf r. There should be photos of my plugs on here in various threads. If you want me to repost, let me know but you don't need to see mine to know that one doesn't look great at all. It is so black everywhere = carbon burning....

@CornishSkodaman it is bad going and bad luck. I haven't read through all the detail and replies but I follow uk forums on the EA888 Gen 3 pretty closely and there are a few crank bearing failures. The most recent ones I remember seem to occur with manual cars and can be related to thrust washer failure. I haven't looked back to see if yours is DSG or manual. Anyhow, there are other failures for DSG cars as well. I have one as well in a golf R edit. Badly worded have a ea888g3 not a crank failure. Howerver, there are duccumenred golf r crank and spun bearings.. ...... I don't think it is a huge failure rate from what I see but it is there. I can get you the name of a respected VW engine rebuilder who does motorsport engines. They could maybe tell you what they see regularly and offer you perhaps some options / alternatives. They won't be cheap though one is based in somerset from memory... If you can find a good low mileage donor engine and a good garage to fit that may be the best way but you are rarely fully guaranteed first time success. And even if they refund the motor you could well get stuck with removal and refit costs and delay. It's always a tough one when you face these issues... from a few of the posts the dealer does not seem to have approached this in a very helpful / economic manner but I maybe misinterpreting and I have not seen the car! Good luck...

My experience for what' it's worth. If pulling out the pump to clean, the oil will drain out of the pump. There is no explicit prime routine that I remember but if you fill to level of fill hole, then cycle ignition a couple of times you will find it takes another 300ml or so to properly top up. You don't have to rerun the adaption but it does optimise the voltages learned. Without running it, it stays static (as previously set at first install) and they aren't updated. There's a good explanation on one of the haldex service sites. This probably doesn't solve the OPs issue and I agree with the comments made to check. Although an unplugged haldex pump would normally report a code on full scan. But should be checked. Another possibility is the pump has failed.

The belt is a pita to change. You'll struggle without a rattle gun. I left it. If buying genuine you do need. 1. Thermostat housing 06L121111P 2. Water pump 06L121012L 3. Union to oil cooler can't remember 4. Belt and bolt if you want it If you buy the Ina part equivalent, they are the oem supplier, all of it except the plastic union comes with it. That's what I did.

If it was the amp it almost certainly would show up in a full scan. There were some variants of the sharksfin which combined aerials if I am remembering correctly. But you would need to research visible identification.

Could be. A few of my horizontal runs are also out. So there is some commonality. I've never noticed the rear demist affecting my fm though. I'll have to double check. My car has no nav and no sharkfin or stubby aerial. Only one visible in the window, similar to demister lines above the rear guard. I've never investigated further.. Per @Stonekeeper you could experiment with an after market dan aerial.

Yep. Mine reports nothing, but a solid place to start.

It's a fairly common complaint on mqb cars. My mk7 my16 golf R does it. It has no sharkfin as the mib2 is only dab / Aa and car play. But with demister on, reception is worse. No faults on aerials. There is an aerial in rear side panel cargo area window. Not sure which one that is. The screen heater may also be utilised as I have no protruding aerials with no GPS spec'd.

Ok. I think the primary temp is the block. The rad is a second temp parameter. Torque will only pickup temp 1.

I'm not an expert when it comes to diesels with dpf but there are a lot of parameters that can be checked even without a fault code to check the dpf management is as expected. It could be fan controller has gone and stuck on. Normally a code would be stored. Need to get a garage who will properly diagnose for a fee. Or get your hands dirty and a full scan tool for parameters. Also on diesels there maybe a secondary app required for dpf control. Someone else will buzz in I'm sure as I don't really do diesel stuff myself

Should be 2. One at bottom rad outlet. One on block below vacuum pump. If you are ordering off skoda you won't need part number. I would guess the block One. Try disconnecting and see if the guage shows 0. Have you got a scan tool? They're both slightly tricky to get to. You may need to move / remove other parts.

I don't know but the answer but normally there is not u huge range of options and the geometry settings come down to a few variants. The sticker would help it would probably have the PRcode for sports suspension. Most tracking places wouldn't need to ask the customer - it's a common car! There are one or two ways you can find out, pay for etka and ket the entire vehicle specification with PR codes. Ask a dealer for this print out - they will probably charge unless they know you and you do service there. Enquire about a replacement spring or damper and in the conversation ask what PRcode is listed for the car's vin. Use some online Skoda vin lookup.

Yeah I've used premium torque app with a cheapish obd dongle and as said, you can set up a dial display on your Android phone or tablet, I have used it to say monitor in progress boost pressure. Temp reading on one thermistor, the engine temp defn works, I can't remember if it allows you to pick up the second coolant temp sensor, I'd have to check!!

Im sure As a lot of members on here already know, the temp gauge is Bravo Sierra...... It will show 90C coolant temp for quite a wide range of temperatures. If you want real data the two temp sensor data items in engine data will show you what is actually happening with engine coolant temps at the two different locations there are thermistors.

I agree with this. My experience of gen 2s and gen 3s ea888s are they regulate coolant around 105C on rad intake temp. Output from rad is lower, obviously following cooling and will depend to some extent on the ambient temps, the ecu has some pre-determined expectations on the amount of temp differential and will for example report an inadequate cooling or circ issue if it goes outside it's believed programmed parameters.

The 6sp is only wet clutch plate pack design. . A generally reliable unit but that is not to say they never have a problem and clutch packs are consumable. Normally 140k miles maybe more if motorway driving orientated. But if paying for that work definitely get a garage who knows what they're doing to diagnose and quote. Otherwise if it doesn't fix it it will be on the ops head. Also should check other items that could show similar symptoms, engine mounts for one.

Yes I reckon be close to that even at at an independent. I doubt you'd even get a manual clutch and dmf fitted now for 1k... dsg clutch kit is pricier and a bit more setting up. Maybe 1,500 would do it, you'd need to call around...

@pab567 may be able to help. N9t sure.

Sounds way too much is my off cuff reaction. What bits of vvt are you replacing? What fault are you fixing or how many miles?

Yeah the rebuilding garages i know are either midlands or southwest coast. I don't know if it's possible, but it may be possible to change the big ends from below. After removing sump and upper sump assembly. But even if it is, you'd have to wonder if it is a good strategy with possible damage to journal and debris in engine. It would be a risk, even if technically it can be done!!

It is and one i have not had to play. Options are two broad options. 1. Recyclers used engine, which is an unknown but may come with a warranty but likely won't cover install and reinstall costs. 2. Rebuilders. I do have a couple of names from post history on here but no personal experience of using them. I do know with the complexity of these engines a rebuild just to oem spec is going to be north of £3k but if it is a good rebuilder is much more a known qty than a used replacement.. Where are you based?

My experience is with the Tsi. But the cooling system will have some commonality. It's difficult to drain all the coolant out or a flushing agent in one go. Due to the multi chamber aspects of the system. When you pull the radiator hoses you only get about 5litres out of 10 or more. If the cooling system had contamination it could be combustion gas, head gasket or oil, say oil to coolant cooler if it has one. A vacuum filler will make it much quicker and more effective to fill but you can fill manually by holding the expansion tank above the engine and filling whilst the car is running.

Possibly a faulty wire or the latch switch itself. Edit. A full all module scan may tell you more.

When you say it is that engine you mean the 2.0tsi? How long have you had the car? This is a new problem? So its definitely been warning low oil pressure but also the oil level was also very low, and it continues to use a lot of oil. For it to have come on like this, all of a sudden, rather than gradually, it sounds like a failure. But I'm surprised you haven't seen smoke or pools of leaking oil. If the pcv diaphragm is completely gone, I guess it could use a fair bit of oil but you should likely see smoke or smell burning oil.. You can do some relatively simple checks on the pcv or replace it, it's about £100 as part only.

I have used one. No problems. All it does is remember the setting at switch off. But there are probably multiple versions of these little things. Are you sure the connectors were properly clicked in both ends? Run a scan?