AGFalco

If the car is on fixed oil changes then this is 372 days / 15000 KM. in the UK. If you reset the oil change from variable to fixed you cannot change it back. A dealer might be able to do this. An oil change service is different from an inspection service but can be done at the same time, check mileage / time for what is checked. The Inspection service will stay at 2 years but if an inspection is done at the same time the oil service is done it can be reset then. This is for mine:- SKODA Fabia III (NJ) 1.2 TSi (CJZD) 01.2015 - 01.2017 Maintenance / Repair manual / Service indicator reset (2014 - ) Service indicator reset Vehicles with keyless entry system: Close all the doors Close the boot/tailgate Close the bonnet Oil service reset: Press and hold button (1) Button 1 is the trip reset button marked ' 000/SET' Turn the ignition on 'DELETE OIL CHANGE' appears on the display Release the button Select 'Reset oil change interval' Press and hold button (1) The system is reset. Inspection service reset: 'DELETE INSPECTION' appears on the display Press and hold button (1) If necessary: Turn the ignition off Repeat the procedure After turning the ignition off and on again Press and hold button (1) for 2 seconds 'DELETE OIL CHANGE' appears on the display Release the button Page 1 of 2 Press button (1) again The system is reset. Hope this helps. Thanks, AG Falco

Sometimes you can push the bumper back in to shape with the help of a heat gun / hair drier to soften it up first. It won't be perfect but you can make it look better. Heat from inside and not to much. Practice on an unimportant part of the bumper first. Thanks, AG Falco

I'm talking about oil temperature as displayed on the MFD. Thanks, AG Falco

Sounds a little low to me. To help mine warm up I have now blanked off the top radiator grill. There is a post about this. I now see low 90's C after 12 miles, I was getting low 80's C. Thanks AG Falco MFD Multi-Function Display

The Temperature gauge is not accurate by design in the car. If you look at the engine oil temperature reading in the MFD you will get a better idea. Mine after 12 miles can still be in the low 80's C during the winter. It can be above 100 C in the hot weather when being used. After reading your other posts I don't think you have a problem except that it is cold outside. Thanks, AG Falco

This was in relation to the 1.2 TSI 4 cylinder engine not to the 1.0 TSI 3 cylinder one. This means the thermostat's are fitted in the water pump but note there are two thermostats in the water pump. Quote from, VW The New EA211 Petrol Engine Family:- ''A dual-circuit cooling system is used for engine cooling in all EA211 engines. With this system, the coolant is channelled separately through the cylinder block and cylinder head at different temperatures. The temperature regulation is controlled by two thermostats in the thermostat housing. The respective coolant temperatures differ according to the engine.'' I don't know where the coolant temperature sensor is but I have found this image:- ''Coolant temperature sender G62'' appears to be attached to the back of the engine in between the turbo and the water pump. The water pump is fitted to the cylinder head on the gearbox end of the engine. This image is looking at the engine from behind, as if you were in the left hand seat, passenger seat for UK. Have you asked a TPS depot? Thanks, AG Falco

In the UK the manual door lock is on the drivers side of the car / right hand side if you are sitting in the car. If you have deadlocks then opening the drivers door manually will NOT unlock the passenger / left hand side door. Thanks, AG Falco

Been there, Not seen it, done it. Glad it is sorted. Thanks, AG Falco

Have you removed all of the light bulbs to look at them. You are looking of one which might have a dark stain on the inside of the glass. Thanks, AG Falco

You have more than one tail light bulb, make sure they are ALL working. Look carefully and compare side to side. Mine has four tail light bulbs per side. Thanks, AG Falco

The alternator does not produce a charge all the time by design. The car tries to keep the battery charged from about 50% SOC to 80% SOC. It wont want to charge the battery fully so that when you are braking the alternator will kick in and fast charge the battery at 15 volts. This is using the kinetic energy of the vehicle which would be wasted by using the brakes more. Micro hybrid charging system. Look here:- https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/ ''When the alternator is running it can typically consume up to 10% of the power produced by the engine.'' If the battery was already fully charged you would be over charging it. The idea is that on a long journey the alternator only works when required. This can help with both fuel economy and low brake wear. My own car I have had from new in 2016 and is now above 50000 miles. The brake pads and disks are all original and are only about 1/2 worn. After swapping the car from a diesel I was hoping to hit 50 MPG in the summer with the petrol Fabia. I am actually achieving more than 50 MPG during the winter and above 60 MPG during the other seasons. This is worked out using actual miles travelled divided by the gallons filled to the brim every time I fill up. My original Battery is showing no signs of low charge and the stop/start system still works fine. I don't charge the battery with any external charger at all. It works for me. Thanks, AG Falco

Don't assume that driving the car will charge the battery. The alternator will only cut in if the voltage is at its low point or there is a high demand. Smart charging is the way to go. Thanks, AG Falco

They do get easier the more you do them. I also find a mirror can help to line them up but... You then need to get in your head that you move your hand right to go left and so on. There are worse headlamp bulbs that I have fitted. Thanks, AG Falco

I would suggest doing the main beam inner ones first and only do them one at a time. You can then still compare side to side if you get lost. After removing the round rubber rear cover on the back of the headlamp unit take a photo of the bulb holder. Also note which way the wires go. The bulb holder is held in in two places by the two tabs on the bulb holder that slot in between the frame and the two small screws with the torx heads. You can see these screws in your photo, but this is with the bulbs already removed. To remove the bulb holder twist the bulb holder anticlockwise less than 1/8 of a turn. Note this anticlockwise if you are behind the headlamp unit not when standing in front of the car. This is very stiff the first time you try. You want to grip it on both sides as per your photo below. You then note which way the tab on the H7 bulb is fitted to in the bulb holder. You have a 50 % chance of refitting this wrong as there is only two ways to fit the bulb to the holder. The H7 bulbs have a tab around the metal outer ring. If you look at this photo it is at 9 o clock. Remove the bulb by pulling both apart. Push the new bulb in to the holder without touching the glass, you can use a new tissue / kitchen roll. Refit the bulb and holder the reverse of above. Look at the photo you first took to help you line it up. Push in and twist clockwise. Look at this topic for more help:- Thanks, AG Falco

I replaced all four H7 bulbs on my Fabia III with the Projector type headlight units back in 2016. These have all since been replaced by me as well. I didn't remove the battery, lower skirt, front bumper, inner wheel arch liners or the indicator bulbs. It is possible to do if you understand the process and use the correct technique. The photo in your third post is the one people need to look at and understand. Thanks, AG Falco

Tends to be fine when cold but gets worse after a drive when all the brake bits get warm / hot and expand. It might not be the calpier. I would check the brakes first including that the pads move freely in the carrier first. Thanks, AG Falco

Sounds like a seized brake caliper which can induce a brake pulsing when hot. This is where the brake is seized on tighter at some point every revolution. This can create a wobble where the suspension is pulled down further at the tight point. This might not be due to any pothole impacts. Thanks, AG Falco

Check the switch first. Thanks, AG Falco

Have you removed the boot switch / lock / catch and tested it? Does the MFD know when the boot lid is open / closed ? Broken wire from the body to the boot lid in the black rubber tube near on of the hinges? Thanks, AG Falco

Door panel off time then. Has the glass jumped out of the carrier at the bottom? Thanks, AG Falco

With the boot lid open but the boot catch in the locked position does it work using either the key fob or the outside boot push button? Thanks, AG Falco

Does it work using the switch on the passenger side if there is one? Is it stuck up or down? Thanks, AG Falco

Did the method suggested work? Have you checked that power is getting to the switch in the boot lid? Keep us updated. Thanks, AG Falco

If you have rear drums then it helps if you go forward first after leaving the car overnight. Thanks, AG Falco

Quite normal on most cars, especially the camber. To stop the sawtooth build up you can try this:- Don't fit directional tyres. Fit new tyres to the rear if you are buying two. If it is fronts you are replacing then move the rears to the front. Rotate your tyres from side to side twice a year. Thanks, AG Falco