Warrior193

I vote cry.

Hi, there was probably some issue with that car - pretty sure the engine shouldn't have cut out at that speed. I have seen reports of some DSGs cutting out at roundabouts, etc. but not at that sort of speed - can end up being a little tricky if you lose vacuum for the power-assisted brakes! When the engine cut out, had you just lifted your foot right off the accelerator pedal?

Hello Richard, welcome to the forum. Oil required is VW 502 / 505, you can use either 5w-30 or 5W-40 grade, I suggest 5W-30.

Hi Hetty, is this a TDI? If so, it may be trying to do a DPF regen.

Well done, what did it turn out to be?

Any luck in getting spark back?

How difficult is it to remove the fuel tank? with the amount of crud collecting in that new filter, perhaps a thorough wash out and treatment (A la Rob's Quatro in NZ) would be beneficial.

Perhaps set a little too low - even for fogs? Yellow is supposed to be better for reduced back-reflection, so probably ideal for use. By low, I mean the beam angle.

I think you should make a complaint to the MD - and look for a better provider.

All pins and sockets - the item has individual tools for them - sort of like the little 4-way tool for tyre valve servicing.

From my recollection, back in the days I towed, there is actually a special hand tool available to clean both male and female trailer connector contacts. Perhaps a useful addition to toolbox?

For a 12-volt system, using a voltmeter, battery voltage should be around 10 volts DC when engine is cranking - voltage should not drop below 9 volts. This is for a fully charged battery. Voltage should recover to more than 12 volts immediately engine stops cranking. Depending on type, a battery test meter will often give pass, charge battery or replace rating, with possibly a percentage reading. For a healthy battery, voltage should be not less than12 volts (12.2 VDC or greater) after battery has been sitting for a day.

Especially the start-drop test if your tester has that function.

^^^ this, plus, if you have someone to assist, keep the meter leads on the battery terminals while assistant cranks the engine. This will give a good indication of battery condition.

^^^^ Especially any earth connections.

Apropos to nothing in particular, an old LD/DOP gag that used to do the rounds when I was working in television - What's the difference between a flare and a highlight?

Dropping oil (or other fluids) on the track will pretty quickly get you a black flag from a marshal. Normal, road-going people have to take their chances.

Taranaki?

I see you like to travel light😆 - same as me.

As a comparison for making a decision - I once had a misfuelling with a Volvo D40 engine, the pump operator had changed shift between me requesting fuel and my arrival at the fuel pontoon - resulting in me being handed what I believed was a diesel hose (out of sight of the actual pump) and putting approx. 120 litres of petrol into a 200 litre tank. Refuelled at Isle of Wight after discovering mistake. Saving grace may have been approx. 50 litres of pretty old diesel that had probably been in the tank for a year. Engine ran fine from Poole, and fuel pump suffered no apparent damage - was still running fine three years later when I lost her.

Hi, are you able to estimate probable proportion of petrol to diesel? If reasonably low, I'm sure that there will be no issues.

Doesn't excessive toe cause 'feathering' of the tread pattern?

Plus a little too much negative camber on the fronts?

Hi Bob, any significant heat on compressor shaft would almost certainly destroy the shaft seal.

Hello Niccolo, welcome to the forum. Be aware that any unexpected current draw while vehicle is locked can cause other onboard systems to not fully shut down (go to sleep mode) This can cause a significantly larger current draw than the dashcam alone and will cause issues with the battery charge state.