Warrior193

As @Mike The Thinker and an online check on Octavia specs confirms.

Hello Nepo, check the wheel bolt PCD for the Mk1 - I seem to recall that the Mk1 is 5 x 100mm, while I think the Mk2 is 5 x 112mm.

provided the battery tests ok on a test, I'd suggest looking for parasitic drain while the car is fully shut down - correct procedure can be found by searching on the forum. Even with variable charging from the alternator, battery standing voltage should not be allowed to drop below 12 volts, as this can cause long-term damage.

^^^^^ This, especially given that the battery is 2023.

I note a recent report suggesting that the new requirement to 'quarantine' BEV and hybrids that may have suffered damage to the battery pack, may be partly responsible - but insurers do often seem to post high premiums initially, then are prepared to take a substantial drop when resistance is met.

By 'corded' I mean the type that plug in to one of the 12 volt sockets in the car.

Incorrect tyre pressures unfortunately pretty common from dealers.

Hello, buy one of the corded air compressors online (we have one in each of our cars) - I think ours are branded RAC - and get yourself a good, dial type, pressure gauge at the same time. Neither of these will set you back much.

Is this guy working from a recognised garage? Are you in UK? What is the car? Instruct him in writing that you expect him to properly rectify immediately the problem he has caused to your vehicle - if he fails to do so without any cost to you (and if you are in UK) open a case in County Court (small claims) - low cost and easy process.

Clearly your mechanic has made some error when replacing the tie rod joints (presumably from MOT advisory?) - then compounded it by getting something wrong when attempting to correct the alignment. Obviously his error for the alignment being 'completely off' after replacing the joints, assuming that the vehicle wasn't pulling to one side before the replacement. Take it back to him.

Hello Fitz, welcome to the forum. It would perhaps help others to give advice if you can give the reason for repair and wheel alignment that gave rise to this problem - was there some issue, I.e. after clipping a curb?

Definitely not worth the risk.

Putting the boot in while turning can tend to induce oversteer in all vehicles - even at the pinnacle of F1. Your quote 'gave it plenty of gas' perhaps suggests this was a little too much.

That EFB to AGM change will definitely need adaptation (coding) - also true if the Ah rating is different from the old battery. Changing the battery serial number serves to reset any settings that the charging system may have made in compensation for faults in the old battery. There is a register somewhere on this site for members who have the necessary equipment and may be able to assist. The clamping bolts are at the base of the battery and will require a long extension.

Hello, I'm sure there is no difference for SS - important to make sure the battery adaptation is done correctly (change battery serial number and update any change of battery capacity/ battery type)

As above ^^^^. IIRC, that used to be a mechanical interlock in the switch assembly itself - I assume that would have changed to an electrical interlock for keyless start models.

Hello Dipesh, welcome to the forum. Please can you post what the compression readings were - did you take both 'wet' and 'dry' readings? If there are significant differences between cylinders, this will most likely be the cause of misfiring - possibly from plug fouling - what did the plug electrodes look like when you removed them?

OFN is Oxygen-free Nitrogen, which is used to pressure-test the AC system - but the AC should never be run with this gas in the system , as the compressor will not have sufficient lubrication.

I wonder, is OP mistaking 'normal air' in his AC for OFN being put in the system for a pressure-drop test?

I find that rather surprising, considering Volvo's action in moving all production to EVs.

Saw an interesting short interview from Rowan Atkinson (Independent) on EVs, his opinion is the 'honeymoon period' is coming to its end and says he feels 'duped' over some of the green claims for them. He was quoting recent data from Volvo, regarding production emissions compared to petrol vehicles.

From the image you posted, I think that is normal - the area wiped by the pads would not normally extend all the way in to the hub.

Hello, pushing back the pistons to fit the new pads will have displaced fluid back into the reservoir - syringe out the excess.

Hello Pete, welcome to the forum. Members can offer help if you give more details on what you have - EG. Petrol/Diesel, engine size, engine code, gearbox, etc.

Auto stop-start can be inhibited by external and internal temperatures - but likely your problem is with SOC or condition of your battery. If cabin temperature is not up (or down) to commanded temperature for heating or A/C, the stop-start will be inhibited to prevent, for instance, windscreen fogging, etc. These particular inhibiting conditions will usually go after 3 or 4 miles. There are quite a few inhibit conditions - but failing battery is the most common one if the issue persists after the vehicle is fully warmed up. Be aware that the battery is very rarely charged more than 75-80% by the smart-alternator, particularly with relatively short trips.