Warrior193

Hi Will, I suspect that if you were stopped for a weight check (probably unlikely - but possible) the number on the trailer plate will be the one used. Regarding the 85% recommendation, I think this is a suggested towing weight de-rating of the maximum to give better balance and stability.

Give the old battery an occasional charge with the smart charger. All lead acid battery will self-discharge, and the rate varies according to ambient storage temperature - S-D rate is smaller at lower temperatures, but can be as high as 1% of SOC per day at 30deg.C - even on a new battery!

I'm hoping that my recollection isn't faulty - I think the SOS issue only applies to the MkIV.

The 'smart charging' system will usually only allow the alternator to keep the battery charged to approx. 70% max - so as to allow available capacity in the battery under energy recuperation conditions.

Hi Duncan, just be aware that the message 'High Power Consumption' can mean a number of things - often it simply means that battery SOC is too low at the time. One reason can be due to short runtime since start.

You will need a reasonably accurate DMM and will have to fool the vehicles various systems into going to sleep - this may require overriding the bonnet open switch, then, with one battery lead disconnected, measure the current draw between lead and battery terminal. IIRC, quiescent current draw should be only 10-15 milliamps. A search on the forum will probably explain test procedure better.

For micro-hybrids like these, it is normal for the alternator to ramp-up charge voltage during overrun or braking (energy recuperation). Considering it appears that you are not doing particularly short trips, it is odd that your battery is not staying at least 60-70% charged. Have you checked for parasitic battery drain while car is shut down?

Hi, good quality Duct Tape should be ok - especially if it's not left in place for months. There are some tapes available that are relatively 'low-tack'. Gorilla tape might be a little too aggressive. Bad luck with the damage 😭 - did something hit the door while it was open?

@rmills Have you tested the terminal voltage of the hotel battery while the HV battery is being charged since the update?

Request a written statement that the hotel battery was fully tested and is undamaged. I'm really interested if they will do that.

For brake fluid tester calibration purposes, a small bottle of fluid is inexpensive - discard after expiry period if not used for occasional top ups.

I think that is called the 'Ski hatch' - for fitting long items into trunk without folding rear seats. I will check latch mechanism on mine if it stops raining 🤞.

In the case of electronic brake fluid tester, it is fairly easy to check calibration - take several small samples of new, freshly-opened fluid in separate, clean pots and add a small percentage (by volume) of water to one sample - then see if tester agrees with samples. One possible limitation of brake fluid testing is you would normally only test the contents of the master cylinder - although a sample could be drawn from a bleed nipple. I tend to believe that, as brake fluid is so hygroscopic, moisture in the system is likely to migrate through the whole system.

Very simple job to replace expansion header tank for one without Silikat - provided the original 'teabag' has not already split. As @Stook says, check the colour of the present coolant for discolouration. There was an issue with DSG and the early 1.5 ACT combination (Kangaroo) but that should have been resolved with a software update. I am very happy with my EA211 1.4 TSI.

Hello Gratax, welcome to the forum. That looks as if you had a very lucky escape! Looking at the images you posted, that timing belt was due for replacement anyway. I assume that your original belt was also soaked with engine oil?

Just me it seems 😆 - I would have preferred it to have been configured like a sequential box - pulling stick back under acceleration and pushing forward under braking.

Hi Simon, probably just the weather 😒 especially if the vehicle has relatively light usage.

Not the way I work - 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 5 to 6 are all pull stick back. If the configuration could have been changed, I would have reconsidered. I had intended to mostly use DSG in manual mode, and only use auto in traffic.

You push the shift lever to one side for manual operation - then push lever forward to change up, or pull lever back to change down (yes I know, a little counter-intuitive, and one reason I decided against DSG)

Take a longer run out somewhere nice for the day and check it then. A little treat for the wagon too.

IIRC, the horn is mounted behind the front bumper, requiring its removal to access, I suggest checking a wiring diagram to see if there is a more accessible connector in the loom where voltage to the horn can be tested. Failing that, it may be an idea to locate and try replacing the relay.

Hi Lee, with your low annual mileage, your car should really be on fixed annual servicing - they usually leave the factory set for variable servicing - but you should have been asked if you wanted it changed to fixed at the handover. SFAIK the system will not change servicing regime according to actual mileage travelled.

That clicking sound will most likely be the relay, so that appears to be working ok, although the relay contacts could still be the problem.

Could very well be condensation then - surface water spraying up from roadway and cooling the exhaust system could make it act like a condenser. Is your engine petrol or diesel?

Bon soir, Monsieur, welcome to the forum. This is most likely just heavy condensation in the back-box, although it could also be a loose baffle - although that usually sounds like a rattle. Does the sound disappear after a longer run?