Warrior193

My 2015 Octavia (Amundsen, MIB2) has the USB.

Hi to all, may not be applicable but just be aware that there is a recent poster who has run into an issue - he has had a Skoda approved used warranty claim (engine oil leak) rejected due to having also taken out an 'all in' warranty when he bought car.

@VRS245GreyI'm more than a little concerned by your reference to 'past history' - but if it was sold as approved used, all terms included in that warranty should still apply.

I fail to see how a pre-paid service agreement can be held to override a warranty issue - or have I misunderstood the 'All-In policy' bit? The Skoda Approved Used warranty should surely cover what appears to be a known TPI issue.

Hello, welcome to the forum. This sounds to me as if it might be an intermittent problem with the immobiliser. Have you tried using the second key (if you have one) when this problem occurs?

At 1 litre per 100 miles, that exhaust should be smoking like an old Russian T55. Are there any sign of oil leaks on the underside of the engine bay? I once had a rental from Rent a wreak in California - that leaked oil like like the Torrey Canyon!

I use VAS Technical in Surbiton for servicing both our cars. Can recommend them.

Suggest asking your local road safety committee for the loan of a hand-held speed camera. 80+ is unacceptable. Local Police should be able to advise who to contact.

Hello John, welcome to the forum. Was it a short 'honeymoon' with the Tesla?

I recall reading somewhere that you have to raise some type of shroud on the suspension unit to see if the transport blocks have been removed.

Tyre pressure warning is a chime (bong) with the area highlighted and a short warning message stating which wheel. The indirect type TPMS operates on a difference between wheel rotational speeds, taken from the ABS sensors - so provided pressures all increase at a similar rate with heating (more likely) this type of system will not usually flag an issue from this. You may get spurious warnings if one side of vehicle is much warmer than the other - if, say, from very strong sunlight on one side after a cold night.

I think you will find that you will be able to see fluid level, even if fluid is clear, when it is nearer correct level - I would suggest removing some fluid from reservoir until level is correct (use something clean). Have you had a recent brake pad change?

I'm assuming that the OP has suffered terminal issues with their EA888 engine - hence the replacement in image?

Hello Mac, I think there is no relation - the pressure pulses you refer to will be from the crankcase - as the pistons descend towards BDC.

Hello, 1 - It seems that the service interval counter was not reset when the 'full service' was carried out - take it back and ask them to reset it correctly. 2 - That is normal, there is no oil pressure until the engine is running.

Sorry, I do not understand 'VANOS' I believe the item indicated in your image is the timing chain cover. It encloses the chain that drives the cams operating the exhaust and inlet valves.

Timing chain cover.

How long was the car driven after the coolant temperature warning came up?

Hi, that may be the case - OP was requesting information on converting halogens to LEDs. There are clearly very good reasons for laws made to maintain certain minimum standards and (hopefully) protect others. Personally, I find my standard Mk3 Octavia halogens to be excellent in all conditions - even when 'Pressing on' as they say.

Does this problem happen more often when the engine/gearbox/clutches are cold? Even if you cannot get the problem to occur when they look at it again, insist that they enter the issue, exactly as described, against your vehicles record. I believe that your concern is justified.

I have noticed a huge increase in unacceptable light-scatter from oncoming vehicles in the past year - even in supposed dipped mode, the vast majority from clearly LED type equipped cars - please spare a thought for the poor, now dazzled, driver coming towards you. Pray he or she swerves away from (instead of towards) you.

Hello Grant, were you able to demonstrate this shuddering to the Dealership? It sounds to me like you have a problem with the clutch pack.

If that is a true level for the oil, I'd suggest a trip to your local garage and ask them if they can suck about 1/2 a litre of oil out through the dipstick.

Also be aware that holding the dip stick in an upward angle as shown in your image can give a misleading, high reading as the oil flows up the stick.

And does the oil on the dip stick smell of fuel at all?