Warrior193

That's not a problem, simply change one digit in the previous battery serial number - or even create your own number, one member has suggested using a number with the date in it I.e. dd.mm.yy or yy.mm.dd and add sufficient digits to match previous SN format.

Oh, what a cynical bunch we are 😆

Hello Blue, provided your local mechanic has the necessary equipment and knowledge, I'd personally go with him (or her?) does your mechanic have access to VAG online system?

Hi, most likely the fuse has gone open-circuit - I'm sure someone will be along soon with the correct fuse number, location and rating.

My understanding is that the Mit Silicat 'teabag' was fitted in the expansion tank to extend service life of the engine coolant and provide additional corrosion protection. I don't think it was actually judged to be obsolete, but advisable to remove to prevent issues if/when the bag fails, allowing the contents to block coolant passageways. IIRC, if the bag is removed, the coolant will require replacement at shorter intervals to provide sufficient corrosion protection.

I assume that it's not also dumping sump oil on the ground? A litre, even at 250 miles, sounds pretty bad.

My air filter was particularly dirty at only 17k miles / 4 years - loads of loose debris too. I don't drive in what I would consider unusually dusty conditions.

The only thing I can think of is that perhaps disconnecting the MAF is temporarily shutting-off the PCV - but to be honest, that's a pure guess. How much oil does it appear to be using - and have you done the smell test with the oil?

Good morning Gman, what did you 'grease' the starter pinion gear with? A good clean up, then apply a dry lubricant - or possibly Copper Ease to the starter motor shaft would be what I would recommend.

A thought just occurred to me, as you have a PD, have you checked the smell of the oil on the dipstick? Does it smell strongly of diesel? - if so, it might be a faulty fuel injector leaking fuel into one or more cylinders and down into the sump, which then raise the oil level to the point where it blows out of the sump from overpressure - but this would normally also be associated with difficult starting and a lot of black smoke on start.

100% agree, I wish it was an option for UK vehicles. Please can someone at VAG marketing take note?

^^^^^ agree with above. It sounds as if the starter pre-engage pinion is not being pulled away from the flywheel ring gear fast enough. Cure could be as simple as clean and lubricate pinion gear and shaft, but starter motor will need to be removed to do it.

And I don't think the Mk3.5 facelift had one either.

A compression check would help identify the cylinder at fault, but fixing the problem is likely to be uneconomic 😢

Good morning, no, it definitely shouldn't be spitting oil from the breather hose! I fear that damaged piston or worn/broken rings are the cause - at your mileage, depending on time scale this issue appeared, I suspect damage or failure rather than wear 😭 Unfortunately, the only way of verifying this would be an engine strip down.

Hello, S, not sure why the smoke stops when the MAF is unplugged - but from your description, it seems that your engine is burning lubricating oil. This could be due to worn piston rings or valve guides, but I would not expect that much wear at your mileage - are you sure of mileage history? Another thing could be PCV valve - which could fit with the symptoms - but high oil use from excessive crankcase pressure would still indicate worn or broken piston rings. How much oil is it using per 1000 miles?

I'm confused @toot, response was to OP with Mk3 Scout.

Air filter is pretty simple DIY job on Mk3, I don't know if it is the same for MkIV - for the Mk3, the trick is to completely remove the filter air box - there are screws in the base securing the lid - simply not clever!

Hi Will, I suspect that if you were stopped for a weight check (probably unlikely - but possible) the number on the trailer plate will be the one used. Regarding the 85% recommendation, I think this is a suggested towing weight de-rating of the maximum to give better balance and stability.

Give the old battery an occasional charge with the smart charger. All lead acid battery will self-discharge, and the rate varies according to ambient storage temperature - S-D rate is smaller at lower temperatures, but can be as high as 1% of SOC per day at 30deg.C - even on a new battery!

I'm hoping that my recollection isn't faulty - I think the SOS issue only applies to the MkIV.

The 'smart charging' system will usually only allow the alternator to keep the battery charged to approx. 70% max - so as to allow available capacity in the battery under energy recuperation conditions.

Hi Duncan, just be aware that the message 'High Power Consumption' can mean a number of things - often it simply means that battery SOC is too low at the time. One reason can be due to short runtime since start.

You will need a reasonably accurate DMM and will have to fool the vehicles various systems into going to sleep - this may require overriding the bonnet open switch, then, with one battery lead disconnected, measure the current draw between lead and battery terminal. IIRC, quiescent current draw should be only 10-15 milliamps. A search on the forum will probably explain test procedure better.

For micro-hybrids like these, it is normal for the alternator to ramp-up charge voltage during overrun or braking (energy recuperation). Considering it appears that you are not doing particularly short trips, it is odd that your battery is not staying at least 60-70% charged. Have you checked for parasitic battery drain while car is shut down?