Warrior193

Hi Nag, welcome to the forum , nice car - I probably couldn't resist driving that. rather unfortunate timing, filling up the tank on the old one just before replacing it.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration, where the fuel system injects fuel into the exhaust system to raise the temperature and clean out the filter.

There wouldn't necessarily be excess play or end float in a damaged wheel bearing early on, you will probably need to rotate it at speed and listen to the hub - preferably with a 'sounding stick' to an ear. What may have happened is one of the ball-race faces got 'dimpled' when you hit the curb - or the same with the CV coupling on that side.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I'd suspect damaged wheel bearing.

Having spent the first half of my life in a country that went fully metric while I was still at school in the 60's - and now living in the UK where speedo, road signs and distances are measured in miles, while fuel is measured in litres - what fuel consumption comparison do other members find convenient to use? I know that you shouldn't mix standards - but I have never liked the 'official' Litres per 100 Km that is often used and I have evolved to using miles per litre.

Hi Knocker, your engine has the cambelt. I believe the switch from chain to belt was when the EA211 engine started production.

Hi Vimal, much of the difference in the pressure plate diaphragm fingers is probably explained if most of the old lining material had worn away. The vibration was probably a bad release bearing. Was there any sign of a break in the old clutch diaphragm?

Hi Dave, in the UK the recommended change is at 120,000 miles - or 5 years, whichever comes first. I believe there are different periods quoted in other countries. I have seen references where VAG say the cambelt is an 'engine life' item, IE. lasts the life of the engine - but the consequences of a failure will usually be catastrophic!

Hi Vimal, welcome to the forum. The fingers on the clutch diaphragm for the new assembly project more - is that what you mean? It is a very long time since I replaced one, but that should result in a heavier clutch release - but adding more positive 'bite' Possibly the old diaphragm has lost a lot of its original tension - was the old clutch slipping?

How about putting an unobtrusive mark on the cambelt cover to show if it's been removed? also on the belt itself - although if you need to do that perhaps consider taking it somewhere else. PS. Whereabouts in Surrey are you Hozz? I'm also in the market for a belt change.

Mustang?

Eeeeeeek!

And??? - did you get near the end-stop?

Hi Cybrshot, welcome to the forum. The correct charging voltage for a AGM battery is approx. 14.7 VDC - but the battery monitoring module (BCM) will normally only allow the battery to charge to approx. 75-80% of full charge to allow sufficient capacity in the battery for regenerative charging under certain circumstances (this is where the 'micro-hybrid' part comes into play) - 14.2 VDC is around what I see on my Octavia with the hood up. This does mean that you will usually find the battery below full charge. If the 02252 regulator fault does not clear, it may be that the regulator is faulty - or it may be that the fault wasn't reset previously although my understanding is that this would normally reset itself once the battery had been replaced. Have you attempted to reset this fault? Is your engine idle-stop working correctly now? Does the screen clear before switching off?

Just a thought - is it possible that this nut is 'handed'? I.E. left-hand thread on left side axle?

Hi, welcome to the forum, with your normal mileage runs I'd seriously consider the TSI - predominant short runs aren't great for DPF regens, although your longer runs should take care of that. Definitely hold out for the ACC, it will be much more useful in normal UK traffic. Consider the Octavia too, size should be fine for your normal loads, especially the Combi. I can't comment on the 1.5 TSI engine, but I'm a real fan of my 1.4 - although I'd take someone's arm off if they offered me a long-term loan of a VRS!

Hi, welcome to the forum. Not especially surprising, I suspect Thick***t just are not particularly sure of what they are doing! - I think any competent alignment centre should be able to do, I have seen previous references to preference being for a 4-wheel rig such as Hunter. If only 'marginally out' was there significant wear difference between left and right tyres? If not, I'd be tempted to leave. If they don't know how to align, how competent are they on assessing the geometry?

Difficult to see how the garage can state the battery is OK with an output of 10ish volts! The only reliable battery test is to fully charge it, then put a high-rate discharge tester on it - unless it's one of the older types with removeable tops in the cells, those can be checked with a wet hydrometer, but will still need charging before testing. One of those types would probably be getting pretty old by now anyway. A quick alternator check can be done using a multimeter - battery voltage should be at least 13.0 -13.5 VDC with the engine running at more than 1500-1800 RPM.

How is the Frans.J Glacier looking?

Hi, glad you finally got to the cause of the problem. Expensive process!

There is a fairly long list of what will disable the engine idle-stop - to quote a few - Drivers seat belt unfastened; Engine hood open; low internal temperature (risk of wind-screen fogging); Air-con not down to requested temperature; High electrical load/low battery voltage.

Hi Danny, I suppose you do know that engine idle-stop is disabled if the seat belts aren't fastened.

Hail fellow Kiwi, was that West or East coast? I'm guessing West.

Hi Amar, I'd suggest avoid using ACC for that period except for short periods - you do want to check that it's working correctly.

Keep max. revs to 2000-2500 in any gear, preferably change up at 1500-2000 RPM