Warrior193

So now you potentially have exhaust gasses leaking from the exhaust system into your car! Sorry, did you say this was a dealership?

Hi, was this the type of key that has a special pattern moulded into the bottom of the recess? You can get a replacement IF you know what the letter, that was embossed in the middle of the recess, was - I got a spare from Ebay in case I lost or broke the original key. Without the code letter, it is possible to identify the correct key from certain Ebay vendors - some of them post pictures on their site. Otherwise, you will either need a main dealer who has a full set of coded nut adaptors (to identify and supply the correct one) or you will have resort to 'butchering' the wheel bolts off.

Isn't the standard boost something around 1.5 bar? those max. boost pressures look pretty close to that.

It's certainly not a Pontiac Firebird!

I'll buy the LHD, but how on earth did you get the auto? - oh wait, now I see the ATF heat exchanger!

Hi, I would suggest updating your GPS - unless the speed limits on those roads has changed recently, it sounds like something is incorrect in the stored data. When was your GPS last updated? Does your vehicle have traffic sign recognition?

Question, what steps should you take if your car catches fire? Answer, Bl**dy long ones!

I know quite a few members dislike the engine auto-stop, although M6 owners do have rather more control over when the engine stops. Depending on the length of stops I think that you will increase your economy by an indicated 2 - 4 mpg if you leave it enabled - at least that is what I find. Not a real lot, but even a couple of miles is pretty tiresome lugging a jerrycan! It should be noted that the fuel computer may be a little optimistic compared to actually working out miles to litres used, also remember that your odo is probably reading a little high (along with the speedo) when compared with GPS.

Hi John, it depends on where the fraying is - but I rather suspect that the nice man at your dealers is going to say 'that's wear and tear Sir - not covered'.

I would have thought that the DSG consumption should be pretty similar to the manual - possibly a little better. My 1.4 TSI SE L M6 combi regularly gets more than 400 miles to a tank - the most I have ever managed to put is 48 litres (with remaining range showing as less than 10 miles) Most of my mileage is done on an 18 mile round trip commute to work, averaging 22MPH over the past 1500 miles. I tend to shift up at around 2000 RPM - and don't exactly trickle away from the lights!

Hi again, it happened to me too the first time I removed the lid to replace the cabin (pollen) filter. The lever unhooks from a pivot near where the left hand side of the compartment hinges - lift the lever up to unhook, you should be able to fit it back together if the lever isn't broken. The small cog wheel arm runs in the groove with the rack teeth. Rather a fiddly job to get it hooked back on to the pivot - I made up a hook from a strip of alloy to hook/unhook the arm back on as my hands are too big to fit in the gap, it took a few tries! - and quite a few muttered curses - mainly directed at the parentage of the person responsible for the RHD conversion design!

Is that the one with the 357CUi V8?

Hi, that's part of the soft-close strut for the glove compartment. A bit of a fiddly job to put back together. The strut fits on the left-hand side of the compartment lid.

Hi Chaz, take a look on the forum for the gas strut conversion - I think it's listed under bonnet struts. I did mine a few years ago, well worth doing - I used Febi Bilstein gas struts (350 nm)

Hi Nick, I'm assuming the 1.0 has the same air filter box as the 1.4 - if so, you will need to remove the airbox from the car to change the filter, pretty stupid idea, but there are two screws hidden on the under-side of the box - which secure the top cover! to remove box, remove both air hoses and breather pipe - much easier to remove the hose clips for the air hoses if you have the proper hose-clamp tool (amazon or Ebay) The box pulls up off ball type spigots once the hoses are off. Once off, remove the two screws from underneath, release the 4 clips securing the top cover with a flat-blade screwdriver. Take a look on youtube for 'how to video'

I recall an old joke from back in the days when it was usual to check the oil at least once a week - 'if, when pulling out the stick, you find no oil on it, it means that you should have pulled it last month'.

Seems to be such a common thing nowadays for drivers not to check the oil - or anything else for that matter! Includes SWMBO of course - until something starts making a noise - or falls off! I'm guessing it's because vehicles have got so reliable (normally) now. Most people would be at a loss if told to do 'first parade' on their vehicle nowadays.

Are you attempting to replace particular screws or bolts on your vehicle - or are you looking for them just for general use?

Hi Chaz, plenty of suppliers of A2 and A4 SS on Amazon or the 'bay'

The JB cold weld is probably worth a try - pretty good stuff if I recall correctly.

Hi Shy, do you know if ACT shuts down the same pair of cylinders - or do they alternate? Idle interest as my 1.4 doesn't have it, nor does my Canadian friends' 2019 Jetta.

Hi Mat, try googling plastic ball stud, or take a look at 'Snaploc' vibration and noise-decoupling mounts. If you were to drill and tap the manifold webbing you really want a coarser thread to screw into the plastic - although I have seen one type that looks as if the threaded section is self-tapping, which would be ideal if you could get some with the correct size ball head.

Hi Mat, unfortunately I assume that the mechanic is not going to put his / her hand up to breaking this - was the air filter changed as part of the service? While it takes a bit of force to remove the airbox, it seems very unlikely that this broke all by itself! - When I did my first air filter change recently I was really pulling on the top of the box (I didn't know about the two screws underneath) - and I didn't manage to break any of the mounts! To fix, from memory, the webbing on the manifold is fairly deep - it might be possible to drill and tap the mount to fix replacement airbox studs (if such a thing exists) - or use the ball-type mounts similar to those used on gas struts, these are available in various sizes. The ball engages with a rubber bung fitted into the bottom shell of the filter airbox. NB. if this works, make sure you smear a little silicon (or similar) lube grease on the rubber bungs before refitting.

Hi Sam, welcome to the forum - if your car is a 66 plate shouldn't that be a 150 in your profile - or is it just a missing decimal point? A tip for newbies driving an auto - remove your left shoe for the first couple of times to remind yourself not to stamp on the 'clutch pedal' with your left foot when going for a gear-change. I think you will really like the 1.4, pulls like a train, even from pretty low revs - although I wouldn't say no to a 245 either.

Hi Jehu, start by telling us what car you have (model and year) - and what the problem is. If it needs to be shifted somewhere else the moderators aren't going to bite you. Oh, and welcome to the forum.