Warrior193

Be careful, a lot of fixings VAG uses are so-called 'stretch bolts' and are supposed to be used once only - this is commonly for things like cylinder head bolts, but it would be a good idea to check.

Difficult to get oriented to what that bolt is attached to - is it on the alternator side engine mount? Clearly not right, and very likely to be the cause of your problem. It looks as if it's backed right out.

Plus you also need to confirm that all cylinder pressures are within acceptable percentage to each other.

It depends on how far the valve timing has 'slipped' - I have seen posts where the engine was reported as still running - but not very well - others where it was a non-runner. In some engines, if the valve timing is far enough out of sync. it can result in serious damage by allowing the pistons to make contact with the valves (so-called interference engines)

Hello, welcome to the forum. More likely to be a fault with the GPS antenna. Unsure where this is located on Mk4.

To check that valve timing has not slipped out of correct synchronisation - this can occur if the tensioner is faulty, allowing cam sprockets to 'jump' a tooth or two.

A compression test requires a pressure gauge to be held or screwed into the cylinder and the engine turned at cranking speed. The test results for each cylinder are compared against the remaining ones and against an expected minimum. But a first check should be to confirm that the valve timing is correct.

For SWMBOs Fabia (DTC P334B00) it was only the wastegate actuator arm that was required - part number 04C198701D - reminder, this was for a 1.0 110 TSI. No recurrence of fault since arm replacement. Price of arm kit from TPS was £32.35

Hello, welcome to the forum. 16s on my TSI, same experience as Gammy. I certainly wouldn't call them 'balloons'! What pressures are you running?

Far more likely to use them seeking reasons to penalise. I guess fair enough if used to punish persistently hazardous road behaviour - but suspect will often just be used inappropriately.

Hello, welcome to the forum. SWMBOs Fabia (1.0TSI 110 - CHZC) had a similar issue at less than 30K miles - it was fixed with an actuator repair kit. A somewhat different case from yours in relation to miles covered, but the labour charge for just trying the actuator repair first, should not be too significant if it later required a turbo rebuild.

Extremely unlikely that the timing belt would have suffered deterioration in just 10k KM to warrant repeat replacement.

A number of sites I've checked state coolant PH should be in the range of 8.5 to 9.5 and should be changed if lower than 8.0. Some other sites say 9.0 to 10.5, the high end of which might seem a little too alkaline for me.

I don't know about PH test, but I'd take a guess that it must be in neutral range (not acid or alkaline) - but actual anti-freeze component is important too - which would normally be tested for specific gravity to confirm correct level. I have no experience of using VCDS, so cannot advise on measuring blocks.

That indicated temperature (125) on the Maxi dot display is for the OIL temperature, isn't it?

Hello, according to a post on the VW Audi forum, the G83 sensor is located on the side of the engine above the gearbox in a plastic junction - remove the air filter box to access.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. Please can you say what engine you have? - with engine code if possible.

OP location is Milton Keynes, presumably vehicle is RHD - so should be offside front door.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The notch is on the underside of the plastic cover trim (to rear of handle) The alarm will trigger as you open door this way while the alarm is armed - so get ready to switch on ignition quickly!

500 metres might just be enough to get the primary coolant circuit hot enough for SS to be activated

This is the reason for attaching the charger negative lead to the tag on the firewall bulkhead - rather than the negative terminal of the battery.

I can confirm that G13 and G12 evo are fully compatible for top-up or refill. There may be a colour change depending on different pigment of each coolant. Capacity is 7.5 to 8 litres if coolant system is completely empty. There is a possibility of introducing airlocks in cooling system if a special bleeding procedure is not followed - I'd advise a check on this.

Your engine will be fine with G13 coolant for the moment. Do you know if the coolant has ever been changed at the recommended interval? The silicate bag was intended to increase the service life of the coolant between changes, so change intervals will probably be shorter without the silicate additive. I believe that G13 and G12 evo are compatible with each other, but will check.

If the engine is now actually running cool, it is possible that the new thermostat is faulty (or jammed open) What happens to the engine temperature after a longish, hard run? One point to note, the indicated temperature on the instrument panel gauge does not necessarily indicate actual true temperature - OBD11 or VCDS plugged into the diagnostic port will show actual temps. Cold running is not great for the engine.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It is likely that you have an airlock in the cooling system - this might have been caused when the thermostat was replaced. I believe that there is a special bleeding procedure using VCDS - although it may be possible without using the tool.