Warrior193

The fuel computer reads the amount of fuel put in tank and adjusts the range currently available by comparing previous use data, you say 'nothing wrong with MPG figures' - have you noticed specific occasions when this range figure has significantly dropped from the last time you drove?

I'm pretty sure that there's an anti-syphon trap fitted to the filler to these vehicles - should not be possible to extract fuel that route.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Can you describe better what the tacho is actually doing - are the revs just dipping before the engine shuts down, or are they increasing and decreasing (I.e. very unstable idle) ?

Welcome to the forum. Best suggestion surely would be to have the fuel pump pressure tested?

Assuming the deductibles are for any claim under it, I wouldn't factor-in much allowance for the extended warranty - just an extra plus point for buying the vehicle.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Your profile doesn't give your location, are you in Germany?

Johngerard made reference to 'DVM costing less than a fiver' so I wouldn't necessarily assume it to be as accurate as a Fluke DMM. Having said that, there are plenty of relatively inexpensive and accurate DMMs available without going to the expense of a Fluke.

No, I mean OP @Portocala84

I asked in another of your posts on a similar subject if you are in the habit of listening to music/radio while the engine is not running - are you?

While the engine should not cut out while the vehicle is still moving (above about 2MPH, I think), this does occasionally appear to be an issue with DSG gearboxes. Not aware if there is a fix.

Was the coolant actually low? If so, how much appeared to have been lost?

If the TPMS false alarms persist, especially if together with traction control indications and on the same wheel, have the ABS sensors checked.

The most reliable test is to fully charge battery, allow sufficient time for any surface charge to dissipate, check that all canbus modules have entered sleep mode, then apply test. Important to note that the battery will virtually never be at fully charged state if solely charged by vehicles alternator. (for Micro-Hybrid)

Unless the exact same conditions apply at each time of testing, you can reasonably expect some variation - SOC, ambient temperature, surface charge, status of Canbus modules, etc. will all have some effect.

That is normal - the battery is being discharged while the engine isn't running.

The 'problem' is that the engine is stone cold for at least the first 2 to 3 miles of your trip - plus you are probably pulling heat away from the system for heating. The engine will be running fairly inefficiently until it has fully warmed-up.

I believe that the current change interval is either 120K or 140K miles for TSI, think TDI is the same.

Probably more likely to find the information you require on a VAG website - the engines are identical.

Hello, I'm certain that you will find confirmation of recommended change interval if you Google any official VAG website.

Sorry, I can't recommend a suitable free app, I use a OBD2 scanner (Autophix OM126P) purchased last year to diagnose a turbo actuator problem with SWMBOs Fabia. It's only a fairly basic tool (no adaptation ability) but can read live data. Your problem does look like an issue with your TB control.

It is what the Mk3 is classed as - starting from around 2015.

Are you able to read live data? check turbo boost figures.

There have been reports of after market infotainment systems (especially from China) being responsible for parasitic drain - but hopefully, this is not the issue here.

I would not assume that 'Owner mounted leds' would not be a possible issue either.

Ideally, the alternator should be charging at a little more than 14 volts with the battery on load.