Warrior193

Better to wait for compression test/diagnosis of fault, it could simply be one of the new plugs is duff - or a coil pack is failing. Faulty piston rings would require a full engine rebuild, which could well be uneconomic. Even a straightforward head rebuild could be more than £1500.

I was over there in July visiting eldest sister, great for winter!

The online forms often have a 'checkbox' for imported vehicles - this might get you past the rego issue.

Try Compare the Market or quotesearcher.co.uk for insurance alternatives.

Ah, I see from your profile you were in WA. Welcome back, you're going to find the temperature a bit of a shock.

Good morning Jim, welcome to the forum. Have you tried registering it first? Is this an Antipodean or North American import?

But even if the speed threshold is not attained, the HBA can still be manually overridden, can't it? - it is on my mk3.

Not sure if the F/L is different, but my MY16 Octavia high beam assist uses ambient lighting (not speed) to switch to HB, dipping for oncoming vehicles and street lighting. The sensor is on the front windscreen, in front of the rear view mirror.

Anti-hijack door locking can be a selectable (tick-box) option in the infotainment menu - if available, it may be in the same section as 'convenience opening' for the windows.

A major problem would be the logistics - isn't there a minimum 6-months waiting list for driving tests already in some parts of the UK?

12.52 volts is a little over 80% SOC for EFB/AGM (slightly over 90% for standard wet type) Load test while engine is cranked is useful.

Natural environment reference was for non-laboratory conditions.

Good morning, take a look at a post @peter3197 put up in March 2021 'Idiots guide to coding for new battery' - The post was for VCDS but should point you in right direction. Important data to change is the new battery capacity, type (if changed) - and new serial number (which can simply be a change to the last digit of the original number)

Good morning Gary, Skoda dropped the mandated 5-year belt change about two years ago to align their servicing with the rest of the VAG brands. I'm not certain what the change mileage is now - but I'm pretty sure it's more than 100K. There is a whole thread on the current belt change recommendation.

H2O in any form has a very high affinity to minerals and I believe it would be practically impossible for water to remain sufficiently ion free for long in a natural environment.

I'd have thought everything would be pretty much up to temperature after 15 minutes, even with fairly gentle driving.

Oil on the plug is not OK - it means either that plug isn't firing, or there is a significant problem with the cylinder.

The fluid is tested for moisture content using a conductivity tester. It can be argued that this test may not be complete unless test fluid is taken from the wheel cylinders, rather than at the master cylinder.

In which case, you need to have a compression test done, then find the reason for no spark on number one cylinder.

Can you post a picture of the present plugs?

If the original plugs were all approximately the same colour when they were changed 3 months ago, something has definitely changed since then. Does it definitely look like burnt oil on number one plug? Not completely impossible for a new plug to be faulty.

Doesn't look right. I think the yellow strainer is removeable, have you tried lifting it out to see what is in it? Otherwise, can you syringe out some of the discoloured fluid into a clear container?

What did the old plugs look like when you 'recently' changed them? (as you wrote last month)

That would definitely be an indication of something wrong with number 1 cylinder - if the 'oiling' on the plug is simply due to the plug not firing correctly, your engine will effectively be single cylinder in COD mode and would run very badly.

The issue is likely to be the voltage drop on the whole system when the starter motor draws several hundred Amps to crank the engine.