Warrior193

If your cup holder is in the console between the seats, that may well not allow the GPS antenna a clear enough view of the sky.

Does your cellphone have a clear view of the sky when you are using it to navigate? Does your vehicle have a heated windscreen?

A problem with failing to adapt the replacement battery is that the alternator control unit will not know to reset any faults, recorded against the old battery, that may be limiting the charge rate. That's a pretty good price for the AGM and given the markedly improved performance over the EFB - and as the adaptation really should be done anyway - I'd certainly go for that. Have you checked the VCDS register to see if a member near you can help with the adaptation?

The actual brand of the oil is completely irrelevant - any oil compliant with the required standard, provided it comes from a reliable supplier, is suitable. High priced oil does not necessarily mean it is better than a lower-priced one.

It is important to note that the part of the fob containing the chip is placed in very close proximity to the immobiliser sensor.

Interesting, what is item 2 (stored gas inflator) used for - is for the airbags rather than using integrated pyro devices ?

PS, AFAIK, the keyless ignition switch does not solely rely on the fob battery to disengage the immobiliser - placing the end of the fob close against the starter switch should silence the alarm and allow the engine to be started.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The alarm on SWMBOs Mk3 Fabia operates immediately the door is opened using the emergency key blade slot - no delay.

I assume that you do know that there are actually two clutches in your gearbox? - 1 for even gears, and the second for odd. I'm not sure, but I think your clutch packs will be the dry type. I'd recommend taking it to a DSG specialist rather than a main dealer garage.

If the MOT tester considered they did not warrant an advisory, I don't believe that a 3rd party warranty would cover the cost of replacement.

OP was asking about Front Assist - not ACC. He has located Front Assist data regarding engagement speeds.

At least give the turbo actuator a bit of exercise by taking the revs further up the band through the gears.

According to information on the VAG website, front assist is operational from approx. 5kph up to 210kph. According to the same source, the distance (vehicle spacing) warning is operational from 30kph to 210kph.

In the circumstance you describe while vehicle is travelling above a trigger speed, the ADAS system will detect the possibility of a collision and give an audio-visual warning on the instrument, if the driver does not respond by applying braking force, the ADAS will instigate full emergency braking - Critical, very strongly advise that this is not tested! - It is in no way to be relied on as any form of autonomous control.

My understanding is that all grid-connected PV systems in the UK must not operate in Island Mode when the grid supply is down.

Has the oil pressure actually been tested by attaching a gauge in place of the sensor?

You should be able to display fuel consumption data on the Maxi Dot screen - there should be a menu selection if you press the 'return' switch next to the RH roller on the MFSW.

Hello, welcome to the forum. On your fuel consumption display screen, is there a 'curser left' or 'curser right' symbol next to the displayed data? If so, pressing the curser symbol should toggle consumption figures between 'since start'; 'since refuel'; or 'long term'

Hello, welcome to the forum. The clutch pedal fault is fairly common and is not specific to the Karoq. The issue is caused by a faulty master or slave cylinder. The single master cylinder reservoir serves both brake and clutch cylinders, with the clutch feed take-off being higher up the cylinder. Depending on whether your slave cylinder is a concentric one, it appears to be recommended to replace the master cylinder first.

Almost certain that the cam sensor fault will be caused by the cam timing going out of sync - original sensor was probably not faulty. I'd suggest the priority would be to get a mechanic do a visual check of the valve timing.

Are you absolutely sure there is zero compression in any of the cylinders? Is that is the case, it is likely that the valve gear has been damaged, with all valves stuck open - although I'm a little surprised that it affected all three cylinders!

Is the bolt that you found backed out a single one securing the complete mount to the chassis? If so, it may be that there is a specified tightening sequence for it, which I haven't found yet.

It would appear that at least some of the engine mount bolts are 'torque to yield' and should only be used once - a torque figure I've managed to find for the three bolts securing the mount to engine block (M10) is 45Nm.

Thanks, so the same as the Mk3 then.

Be careful, a lot of fixings VAG uses are so-called 'stretch bolts' and are supposed to be used once only - this is commonly for things like cylinder head bolts, but it would be a good idea to check.