Warrior193

Field of view for front camera will almost certainly be covered in your warranty - was this vehicle sold as a 'Skoda Approved' one?

A really pertinent question you should ask your dealer is why they were pricing for removal of front bumper!

Hello, welcome to the forum. The front assist camera is mounted high on the windscreen, behind the rear-view mirror - NOT behind the front bumper! There is also a radar antenna mounted in the front grille (square cut-out) - but, AFAIK, that only requires removal of the grille.

Even if the replacement battery wasn't adapted (coded) into the vehicles BMS, it wouldn't affect the quiescent current drain when the modules are all correctly in 'sleep mode' - but it could well cause charging and battery life issues while the engine is running. High parasitic battery drain is often the result of equipment changes or additions - apart from the battery, has anything been changed recently?

Right, irony didn't work then.

At the very least, the special tool for removing coil packs without damaging them is strongly recommended.

To be certain that all modules have entered sleep mode, vehicle must be locked and, ideally, hood latch switch overridden for a minimum of 20 - 30 minutes before testing for battery parasitic drain.

I think a set of the plugs required will cost quite a bit more than £20, I think I've seen prices quoted of around that - EACH!

Hello, welcome to the forum. Your 'leakage' reading of 60mA sounds too high to me, you may have a parasitic drain issue. Excessive current drain while shut down could well be the reason for your initial high idle speed. Are you certain all modules have entered sleep mode when you are reading the battery drain current?

Presumably the missing key will be programmed-out when the replacement key is activated.

Welcome, I think the operative phrase here is 'Could use xx litres in xx distance' It almost certainly will not use that much - and in any case it would not be a significant cost when compared to fuel used in that distance. It is not reasonable to expect an engine to consume no lube oil at all - there was a time when a very high quality vehicle manufacturer considered an engine to be faulty and recalled it for rectification if it did not consume a certain measured quantity of oil.

It is possible that your fault is something as simple as a faulty battery - your stop-start not operating could well indicate this, faulty battery can also be the cause of misfires. Has the battery been tested by suppliers mechanic?

If there are uncleared faults present and the engine is logging frequent misfires, the car is faulty. The supplier has had one unsuccessful attempt to fix, your next move should be to inform them you are rejecting it.

Can you explain what happened during the glow plug change that resulted in having to replace the engine?

Hello, may I suggest to moderators that this topic should be set as a sticky to serve as a warning to anyone being sold a vehicle with only one key supplied? - especially one with keyless ignition or full Kessy. Maybe make it a deal breaker if only one key available?

In that case I'd be looking for a fault in the fan control module. Suggest a scan for DTCs logged.

If you have the fan control set to 'Auto' the fan speed will vary depending on temperature change requested.

Hello, welcome to the forum If I recall, the consensus was avoid!

Why not just get the sensor tested and/or repaired?

I can confirm that your CHPA engine is EA211 type and is definitely fitted with a cambelt.

Give me 5 minutes, I'll look that up.

@ElviraKate Your engine type ID is listed on your V5 document as 3 or 4 letter code prefix to the engine (not chassis) number - it should also be listed on the drivers side B pillar label. If you post this code here, I can clarify what engine cam drive you have.

Good morning, welcome to the forum. I'd first suggest a full test of battery condition, a failing battery can often cause multiple, seemingly random DTCs.

Depending on engine year, capacity and fuel type, some engines are fitted with timing chain instead of belt. Your TSI will be fitted with a timing belt. It is not necessary to replace a TSI timing belt when replacing the water pump (unlike the TDI (diesel)) - but it would be advisable to have the belt inspected for condition. IIRC, timing belt replacement interval for TSI is something around 120 - 140K miles now.

From the context, is the coolant leak from the water pump? - If engine is a Mk3 TSI, there's no need to replace the timing belt when replacing the water pump. This is only required with a TDI. Timing belt replacement is now on mileage intervals only - recommend inspection if engine fitted with one.