Warrior193

Engine code prefix is also printed with engine number on your V5 document.

The first 3 or 4 characters of your engine number are the engine code - can also usually be found on drivers side B pillar label.

There is clearly a fair bit of incorrect data out there! I've now found confirmation from 3 independent sites quoting Simplex chain.

Checking on VW engine specs, CGPA 1.2 engine comes up as 'Timing Belt' not chain! Is this information incorrect?

Even with only 70PS as standard, your engine should not be struggling to reach over 100KPH in 4th or 5th gear. Not familiar with HTP - is this a petrol? Does the engine misfire under acceleration?

My Octavia was a MY16, 1.4 CZDA, delivered beginning of October 2015.

That is very likely the not uncommon failed or loosened fuel rail bolt issue, I experienced this myself on my Octavia last year, but vehicle was out of warranty. I should think it will be covered by your warranty - was it a Skoda Approved vehicle?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is your failure due to loose or broken securing bolts on the fuel rail? Did you have fuel running down the front of the engine during attempts to start?

The Mk1V user manual I read indicates there is a physical dip stick. If there is one, it probably has a yellow top.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Was the engine up to full operating temperature before you checked? It would seem to me to be a major flaw if oil level cannot be checked before starting engine - more so having to run it up to full temperature before doing so!

Suggest looking at coolant pump or any associated flow sensor.

Even so, you are asking quite a lot from diversity factor.

Rather confusing as you previously said that the fault indications appeared immediately the engine was started!

As far as I know, Monte Carlo is just a trim level - the basic chassis layout should be common over the same model range (commonality)

That being the case, it is extremely unlikely that the engine was actually overheating. You said in your post 'with max revs display' - was the engine actually revving at high speed - or did it sound as if it was running at normal idle speed, with just the rev counter giving an apparent false high reading?

Kia Ora, did these anomalous gauge readings and fault indications appear immediately the engine was started? If so, probably a sensor or electrical issue - see if you can get a mobile mechanic to come out to read any DTCs logged.

Brand of any engine fluids is completely unimportant, quality, correct specification and reputable supplier is.

I'm sure that is the case.

Welcome to the forum. Agree with both replies above, warnings where it would be necessary to immediately stop driving until rectified would be red fault indications - where safety is compromised or serious damage could be caused by continuing to drive - amber fault warnings should always be investigated ASAP, but will not usually render the vehicle unsafe to drive.

Are you able to test the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running? This will confirm if the fault is with the alternator, which appears likely.

Possibly, but not necessarily - I have a 9 year Moll EFB fitted which is still going strong.

What is the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running?

I'm interpreting 'coupling rod' on the diagram to be a steering Tie Rod, there should be no lateral movement in the swivel ball-joint at either end.

That sounds as if the pistons were on their way out before the glow plug replacement - what was the issue that triggered the decision to change the plugs, hard starting - or something else?

Absolute tosh for the claim regarding coolant loss! The engine cooling is a closed (sealed) system - provided the system is free of leaks and is not subjected to overheating or excess pressure, coolant loss should be close to zero. Apart from a scheduled coolant change, I have never had to add coolant to either of our two Skodas.