Warrior193

On the other hand, a forensic inspection of the diaphragm might indicate a fracture, causing loss of clamping force - if this was found to be the case, it could be valid ground for a warranty claim. Retain the component shown in image 2 if you decide to do this.

Those images will be after the clutch failed, it would not be possible to assess its condition prior to failure.

I agree that flange angle does look odd.

Appears to have been incorrect torque at factory, my MY16 Octavia failed this way last June, but injector rail bolts had loosened, causing the O-ring to fail. Other sufferers of this fault have had bolts snap. There is a safety recall in the US for this build fault - but UK vehicle safety authorities were not interested!

The official VW website is a complete nightmare - it is quite apparent that they don't want oiks like me dialling up prices for VAG-branded parts, they want Vin or reg numbers! However, several OEM parts suppliers are much simpler - complete clutch kits retail from £204 to £320, the flywheel (I assume DMF) comes in at around £300.

That price for parts alone sounds completely outrageous, I'm off to do some searching.

Agree with exercising the turbo actuator, reasonably sure that too gentle driving contributed to SHMBOs Fabia recent failure. She revs it out a fair bit more through the gears now.

That failure may have been plain bad luck. If there had been no indication of any slippage in prior drives, I'd take a guess that the clutch diaphragm fractured just as you changed gear, instantly losing any clamping force. If investigation of the clutch proved this is what happened, it might be possible to make a warranty claim - but would require an investigation by an independent motor engineer. The price quoted seems very high, have you requested comparison quotes from other authorised garages?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your problem. You imply this is not a DSG, is that correct? Can you describe exactly what happened when this fault first became noticeable - were you driving uphill in higher gears - or had you just changed gear? A note about clutch failing from slippage, it is either the diaphragm spring on the pressure plate losing clamping force, or excessive loss of friction material that causes the clutch to slip, which will then overheat - failure of either master or slave cylinders would not initially cause clutch slip, but will make if virtually impossible to engage gear while vehicle is stationary with engine running.

Apart from simply replacing the correct sensor, the vehicle would need to be scanned and, preferably, live data from the various sensors read. The resolution report of the case I mentioned did not say which specific temperature sensor was involved, but I assume it was not the one for the temperature gauge. There will very likely be a DTC stored in the ECU memory - again, a scan would need to be done to identify any faults.

I've been trawling through my past postings and I found one that might be relevant to your occasional slow-ish start. A previous poster reported back that their similar slow starting issue turned out to be caused by a faulty temperature sensor and was resolved by replacing it.

Given those readings, if accurate, I would consider that battery to still be serviceable. I would be almost certain that Halfrauds tester did not recharge your battery before putting it on test. My 9 year old EFB was only rated at 380 amps (Din) when new, and is currently sitting at around 55-60% health.

No matter, you should still be covered by Consumer Rights Act 2015 as it is now called. Take a look at what your rights are given the circumstances. You can also check with Citizens Advice. Suggest that you try an approach to the dealer principal first though.

I would think that'd be noted on your sales invoice or the warranty document.

Perhaps an approach to the Dealer Principal first to see what their attitude is, can you confirm that it was actually sold to you as 'approved used'? IIRC, a refund, minus an allowance for mileage travelled since purchase, is likely, excluding the legal aspects of the dealer selling an illegal vehicle.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Have you checked the lock switch on the side of the SD card? It's possible that it got switched during handling.

Bear in mind that the sale of goods act (or whatever it's now called) requires items to be of merchantable quality, AFAIR, it will still apply to your vehicle beyond the warranty period. Worth considering.

If the dealer was aware of this illegal modification to the vehicles exhaust, I'd consider that, at the very least, it would give you considerable leverage on addressing other faults. Do keep in mind that in the UK DPF removal will be a MOT hard failure point if it is detected.

Get a couple of litres of de-ionised water from your local supermarket - normally used for steam irons, etc. Cheap as chips and a lot more reliable than the 'distilled' water your local Sh1tFix gets from the men's room tap!

Well, I can't say I'm completely surprised, but I'd imagine that could be very embarrassing to the Dealer concerned if it became public - which it is now of course! How and when was the delete discovered?

So, unless the DPF delete has been done in a manner that it is visually undetectable, that dealers MOT is probably worthless, I wonder what else the tester missed? Was this an 'approved used' vehicle?

From the invoice, I believe that it had simply loosened, resulting in damage to the sealing ring. Seems that replacement of the damaged seal and correctly tighten the bolts was sufficient for fix.

A reasonable test for a fully-charged battery is to test what the voltage minimum is while the engine is being cranked - a load is really needed to check actual battery health.

No issues since June last year. Apart from this single issue, I think the 1.4TSI is a brilliant engine - although I wouldn't say no if I was offered a straight swap for a 2.0TSI 245! 😄

Have you had any MOT issues with the DPF delete?