Warrior193

From the context, is the coolant leak from the water pump? - If engine is a Mk3 TSI, there's no need to replace the timing belt when replacing the water pump. This is only required with a TDI. Timing belt replacement is now on mileage intervals only - recommend inspection if engine fitted with one.

Another possibility - but I'm not sure if it applies to a 2012 TDI (as it may use a chain) but I have seen references where part of a broken Aux. belt has been caught in the timing belt train and caused the timing to slip a little - or even damaged the crankshaft sensor.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Did the engine overheat when it was driven with the aux. belt broken?

Were you able to see if they had in fact replaced all the tyres?

That instruction sounds rather like the previous VAG UK advice on cambelt replacement intervals - now changed!

A possible reason for not using the front camera as a dashcam is that some European countries deem their use illegal.

I'd take a guess that the square object (arrowed right of screen) is sensor for HBA. Grille in centre possibly microphone for voice command?

Unless your Fabia is fitted with KESSY, the immobiliser chip fitted to your key is not a particular security issue - the standard key (with immobiliser chip) would need to be in very close contact to a reader to be cloned.

I can see no possible way that fitting an ignition inhibiter switch could affect the power steering system. Does your Fabia not have a factory fitted alarm and immobiliser?

I was only a little newer with my first car - a 1956 A40 Cambridge.

Unless someone swapped your TSI for a TDI engine during your last service, I seriously doubt that it was. The smell was almost certainly due to the lanolin sprayed onto the exhaust.

My understanding is that a TSI GPF regen is very different from the TDI DPF procedure - and is only carried out during engine overrun conditions.

Perhaps you could explain what that failed component is - is it a gearbox oil filter?

Does your battery have the battery monitor sensor module still attached (and connected to loom) on the battery negative terminal clamp?

Your oil level must have been very low if adding 1 litre only brought it to halfway between Min and Max - how long has it been since oil level was last checked? AFAIK, oil level warning will temporarily reset if hood is opened, then reclosed - even without adding oil!

Does your stop/start function operate correctly?

"Battery has a GM" - Do you mean battery is now AGM? What type was the original battery? Have you tested battery voltage and condition?

Hello, welcome to the forum. If you're referring to the 'Warning at ---- mph notification in the Maxi MFD - that is a prompt for setting a max speed warning, which is accessed via settings in the infotainment system. It's not necessarily a fault message. Multiple and seemingly random fault messages can frequently be due to a failing battery, suggest getting the battery tested if you get multiple fault warnings.

I'd read that arcing as an attempt to complete the ground connection through the bare cable - rather than through the terminal connection. As NTA16 says, remove terminal, thoroughly clean all terminal connection faces, then refit tightly.

You should get your transmission checked by a DSG specialist as a priority. What were the road conditions when this issue first become apparent - were you climbing a steep hill at the time? Were you in 'D' - or in manually selected gear?

Hello, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that the DSG gearbox does not actually use 'transmission fluid' as such as it does not use a torque converter? - instead it uses twin, oil-filled, wet clutches. It sounds to me like one (or both, depending on gear in use at time) clutches have started slipping.

Strongly recommend investigating the alternator comms fault and a proper test of the battery. There may be a date stamped into the top face of battery negative terminal to indicate its age. I have seen references to misfires being caused by failing battery.

The old maxim of 'If it aint broke, don't try to fix it' should apply.

The original EV image was very confusing. That coolant does appear to be heavily contaminated, very likely caused by previous 'Mit Silicate' bag failure. I see that this vehicle was not in your ownership when the original EV tank was replaced. Lack of heating suggests that your heater matrix may be blocked - at the very least, your coolant system requires a through flush - as you note, refilling the system with correct coolant should be carried out using one or other of the recommended methods to avoid airlocks in the system. It may possibly be the case that the heater matrix is beyond recovery - but worth trying flushing first.

Can you post a picture of pipe showing its location? Has a test been done on the coolant for possible head gasket leak?