Warrior193

I have seen posts on the forum where non-genuine replacement screens have been fitted - some with issues! I'd think that would need to be discussed with insurance/fitting companies. Check the small print of the policy. Any windscreen camera will definitely require recalibration.

Those figures don't look too bad but you could could consider giving the battery a bit of a treat with a full charge.

Hello Henry, have you confirmed function of new option on reversing camera yet?

Try switching it on late on a cool night, then feel if the screen changes temperature compared to side glass.

Re the flywheel teeth, they do take a bit of a hammering from the Bendix starter pinion, not usually too much of a problem if only the leading edge. Don't forget to add the mandatory small coil of fencing wire to the spares kit 😄

Taking a look at OPs profile, has both Mk2 & Mk3 - the voltages quoted would be as expected for Mk3 (with stop-start) but I would be checking voltage regulation if on mk2 and a constant figure. I'd expect to see a maximum constant charge figure of 13.8 VDC and a floating charge 13.2 VDC on a standard L-A battery and alternator.

As this is posted in Mk2 section, therefor assumed not to have smart alternator and EFB/AGM battery, I'd think that the voltage quoted to be a little high - particularly if constant. Off for a little refresher course on old battery tech.

Aperture should receive a flag from my post. Take a look at his project post.

You could try messaging @ApertureS for advice on what is possible retrofit wise.

Of more than a little concern that OPs garage , unless misreported, is that they do not know correct valve drive of engine.

👍of course, I forgot about the TDI setup.

What were the symptoms of the recent break down?

Doesn't the serpentine belt also drive the water pump and alternator? There would be no issue in removing the belt to manually check the AC compressor, but obviously, the other ancillaries would be disabled if you were to actually run the engine.

Yes - assuming your new battery is also AGM (Fleece) just change the A/hr setting to the new battery capacity and change the last digit of the existing, recorded battery serial number.

I should have mentioned in my post above - AGM should be entered as 'Fleece' in VAG parlance.

Most likely that the trunk gas struts have lost pressure. Usually a pretty easy DIY job to fit replacement struts - make sure you get correct pressure replacements.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, they will likely ignore anything you tell them. Hopefully you haven't cleared the DTCs, see what they say. If they claim that no DTC had been recorded, show them a screen shot of fault recorded.

I'm confused - you say you have Mk2 estate - video clip appears to show notch back saloon.

A decent DMM need not cost much and is a useful addition to the toolbox, also useful for testing fuses, lamps, etc. - in car and around the house. Something with a resolution count of 4k to 6k and it's certainly not necessary go to the heights of a Fluke.

Hello, the BEM code is not critical - just use any code available, or leave original as is. The only critical data to update the BCM is - Battery chemistry (AGM/EFB) Battery capacity (A/hrs) Alteration to last digit of existing battery serial number to flag that the battery has been replaced.

Yes, I was referring to stop-start - it is often a good indicator of low battery SOC when it fails to operate.

Very likely that the low current draw, if sleep mode inhibited, will have incremental effect - my understanding is that even a very low current draw from an unexpected source is sufficient to inhibit.

It depends on driving conditions - as I pointed out in my last post. We have no way of knowing your normal driving conditions. If you do a little searching on the internet, there is information out there.

The overnight voltage drop you are currently seeing will be normal - especially given the current battery is faulty. Fit the new battery, carry out correct adaptation (coding) if required - E.G if vehicle has 'smart' alternator, then test again to check if there is any parasitic drain - which I think will be unlikely. Provided the new battery is not discharged below 30% - below approx. 11.8 V for AGM/EFB (or 11.6 V for standard L.A battery) and the battery is recharged immediately after discharge, the battery will suffer no damage.

I'd suggest trying that procedure on a longish down hill section. Get the engine fully up to temperature first. The GPF regen should happen in normal driving - but it appears that frequent slow driving in traffic can inhibit it. Apparently some makes are able to do both passive and active GPF regens - but I haven't found if VAG vehicles can do this.