UrbanPanzer

could this not be a sticky "Push" switch..... ?? on either the boot itself OR the remote fob....

Exact same rolling diameter as the fronts, but 20mm smaller than the rears.

Have to say that the casing failing like it does is clearly a design error as the part is simply not up to the job.................should never be any question about fixing this under warranty conditions.

If your misfiring, then first port of call with an vRS would be a new set of plugs "Imo", then see how she goes from there, but in truth even if you don't fit new plugs yet, a mobile app that does not tell you which cylinder is misfiring is pretty useless to be fair. Ideally you need a decent diagnostic report with VCDS or similar. PS some of those P codes seem a little odd.

one here..............at that price def worth a punt....... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164962682390?hash=item26688ac616:g:Bc8AAOSwRSlg8ZGC

Always best to check with your nearest dealer first, thats gives you a base price where you know you can definitely get it from.

I think if you put 1 cheap one in, the LED's may well be a slightly diff colour / intensity and that would look really odd. They dont look great from the pictures and I very much doubt they will last............ If the ones the other owner has got are good used ones, then worth it "imo"............although personally I would fit a new one.

Why not just leave it as it is and have it tuned with everything in place. ? If its easy to spot the fitted EGR delete kit, it will fail an MOT if the tester has anything about him.

you would think if a caliper is stuck enough to cause a disc which is maybe warped to affect / wobble the steering, then there would also be a lot of heat generated due to the "bind".

I can see discs "maybe" affecting the wobble, but calipers and carriers are stationary parts so should not cause this type of issue. Sticking calipers etc would cause a wobble under braking, not just cruising along. It is likely to be a rotating part which causes the wobble, tyre balancing is the first shout as you have done, after that then could be a process of elimination, but discs "could" be the culprit, but so could a worn suspension bush as well.

That code relates to the circuit / wiring to and or the sensor. If the wiring rings out ok, then it is most likely the sensor that is faulty (assuming new hub is good) Why did we go for hub ? Has a new sensor been fitted ? If the wiring rings out ok, then it is most likely the sensor that is faulty (assuming new hub is good) A basic "test" you can do of ABS sensors is to measure it's resistance, this way the one that is way different to the others is the faulty one. So "if" you have not fitted a new sensor (yet) then measure the resistance across the sensor pins at the "faulty" side and compare to the good side.

what hub did you fit ? can you prove the hub is good seems odd that the fault has changed........ What is the code ?

If my RS had normal lights, would not bother me, projectors may look better, but the light output is pretty poor hence lots of questions on here regarding bulb upgrades

the black headlamp "reflectors" are technically not reflectors because they are only in projector headlamps and not used for the beam focusing.

I gave you the straight forward idea, it's the only way, the shutters need to be controlled by / through a changeover relay. Here is the wiring diagram (factory). Essentially the pinouts at the headlamp connector are the same, its just the shutter control is in place of where the main beam bulb would be (circled) ........ref where the feeds come from and go to fuses etc its just the relay is in the circuit to control the feed and shutter operation.

vehicles with projector headlamps from the factory (like the RS & Monte Carlo) have an additional relay in the system to control the shutters for full beam / flash...........it seems the research around on the net is not quite telling the full story regarding fitting them. You would need to add a relay that is controlled by the "original" 12v feed that is live when you flash / select full beam on the stalk. The output of the relay would then go to the shutters to open them

your little plastic wheel arch extensions are not that big !!

not normally, they are often a latched fault.

Have you read the fault codes ? could be and most probably is latched and needs clearing from the ECU...................this is assuming you have not fitted a who flung dung hub assy.

Im still confused............ Why can you not use the charging cable that came with the phone ?

a good white silicone would do the same job

as much as it may seem strange, it is "good" to use all the screenwash occasionally because lots ot them begin to congeal over time when sat in the tank and eventually go hard and block the nozzles. Mixing screen washes can also cause issues as they react with each other. Best practice is to find one you like, flush the sytem out with clean water using front and rear washers, and then only use / top up with which ever one you choose / prefer. Personally I find halfords bery screenwash good and it smells nice to !!.............the "cheap" ones you see in garages etc I tend not to use.

nozzle blocked is the likely cause.

17 of April................said thats what you needed, could have saved a lot of headache !!