UrbanPanzer

can you not just run this car to a garage....................before you injure yourself !!!

Put a claim into the local council for the cost of a replacement.

not sure how it gets to salvage "without" insurance being aware.............seems a bit odd to me. Offcourse cars that have been recorded as Cat N or S can be repaired and put back on the road..................the issue for me is I would like to see the before and after pictures to see how bad it was. You cannot really go on just the insurance company choice as body / accident repairers inflate prices when it comes to insurance work so it does not take much to write a vehicle off.

one reason I'm glad I'm not youg anymore lol........

the problem to me is within the door wiring loom... Smoking = direct short to ground as does fuse blowing. Where is the rubber boot from the door wiring loom ?

right...............so it was most likely written off / uneconimical to repair and the insurance company most likely kept the V5. This way the DVLA etc can keep track when vehicles are put back on road with a re-application for the reg document.

yes any skoda dealer should be able to see all recall / history / warranty work etc. The dealer without the V5 should be able to answer why he does not have one or where the vehicle came from............if he's reluctant..........walk away "imo". You can tax the car with a V62. Have you checked the mot history etc on .gov ?

The estate "could" be ok as there far more CAVE engined cars with no problems than WITH problems......but there is a "risk". It has done some mileage, so its got this far and if its not consuming tons of oil per 1000kms (which you wont know till its yours) then it could be good if the price is right. I would be tempted to contact a SKoda dealer and see what its history is, it "may" have had a new engine etc at some point. The 2014 will have a CTHE engine which "should" be better, but as with all cars there is friday afternoon ones of those to. Personally I don't see ANY reason why a dealer should not have a V5 or atleast the slip part........the only real genuine reason is if maybe the car was re-posessed under a finance agreement. What reason has the dealer given as to why he has not got one ? I would be certainly suspicious and the advice from the DVLA is don't buy a car without one. The form to tax one without a V5 is a V62.

I would be leaning towards the door control unit on the drivers side..................unless you have tried another ?

I can explain for you.......... The Brake requirements for the vehicle is 58% of its measured weight over ALL 4 wheels, so yours achieved 82% which is BOTH axles added together But..........the efficiency is calculated on the force applied by the brakes under test............BUT both the front wheels "locked" (which is best) as you cannot better a locked wheel, but the effeiciency is calculated still on the force applied (in Kg's), hence the figure of 56% for the front brakes. So your front brakes were 308 + 345 = 653KG divide that by the weight 1160 x 100 = 56% for front axle.......rear axle is worked the same way and then added to the front. When your wheels lock you can ignore the "efficiency" figure as it's met 100% as the wheel is locked by the brake. The requirement for Park is 16% of GVW, so yours made 25% which is absolutley fine, more than enough and flown through the test Hope that makes sense, by all means ask more if you wish.

skodaparts will be same price as dealer, it's about what I paid for mine..........its just the shipping which adds more.

As mrgf says, don't get fooled by EBay rip off merchants who sell used parts for more then new!!! Anyway buy NEW from here....... https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1z0877829b47h-glasses-holder-oe-23287.html

If you bought 2 doors in that way, then yes that would cover a lot of parts regarding the rear doors as an assembly........... You would however, still need to replace the drivers door loom (for one that controls 4 windows) and fit the 4 way switch and then finally the wiring of the +12v supply, LIN bus and illumination feeds to both B pillar connections to power the rear windows. VCDS "maybe" needed to code the BCM as well.

What "year" is your Fabia ? The MK4 Polo is "identical" underneath, it uses the same platform. SKoda rapid in India is the same. If the base number is the same (which it is) its just the vehicle identifier which is different, I would suggest yes they would fit.

Bear in mind "if" the part was updated from SK2 to SK3, then the current version of ETKA would display that I'm not so sure the SK part really matters, its now up to SK5........although I would like to know what it refers to.

No wiring is not in place......... Items needed :- rear door trims (no windy hole) rear door electric window regulators rear door electric window motors rear door wiring looms drivers door wiring loom front door 4 way switch front door switch housing wire of various lengths / cross section plug terminals Part numbers will be specific to model year of vehicle.

thats the correct one for DRIVERS DOOR RHD...............although the issue could be where its made

So no new motors fitted anywhere ? in particular the drivers door one ?

I added rear electric windows to mine

I agree, I would call it a VERY important indicator of whats going on under the bonnet, often just a red warning light is to late, not fitting one is just a cost cutting exercise nothing else. If there is any misconception of where the Greenline sat in the order of play, I have attached the fabia brochure. brochure_fabia.pdf

I thought your issue was fixed, what is the problem / what does not work still ?

Here's what I think......... The questions the OP is posting "suggest" he's not an avid DIY'er or regular mechanic... Wheel jacks are inherently "unstable" because the base is fixed and the vehicle "moves" away from the jack when jacking, this is where it becomes even more "unstable", this is "ok" when your just changing a tyre etc which is what it's designed for as you don't need to go that high to accomplish the task.................to get the vehicle up on axle stands will most likely involve going a lot higher which = more instability....................the movment "away" from the jack as you lift is somewhat compensated by the wheels on the trolley jack allowing it to move with the vehicle as you lift. A trolley jack as a larger base and 4 points in contact with the ground. I agree with the axle stands, that's I would hope common sense to not work under an unsupported vehicle however you get it up there. I have no doubt those with lots of experience working on vehicles could use the wheel jack to accomplish lifting it onto axle stands............however there is a risk, it is unstable at the best of times and "imo" not something those without any experience should be doing, a trolley jack is by far the best and safest option for all concerned.

for removing / changing a wheel in an emergency...............not for jacking a vehicle for routine maintenance, but as usual you know better.

yes plenty good enough to lift the vehicle far more safely than any tyre jack When it comes to placing under the sill, you could then use a small block of wood on the jack to avoid the metal contact of the jack "pad", this will also aid as it will increase the lifting height a little to get your axle stands under the console bushes, only then go under the vehicle to do what you need to do.

REF the tracking, first of all it needs to be checked / driven on a road which is 100% flat because most roads have a camber to the nearside and the vehicle will wonder that way. Does it wonder when you release the steering wheel ? and if it does does the wheel move / turn "off" centre, if it does then it was tracked with the steering wheel off centre and needs rechecking "imo" REF valve.... the number is there on it.. 03P131051 Buy it from any VW / AUdi / Skoda dealer, or used of ebay....example...... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Turbo-Boost-Pressure-Valve-1K0906627B/114570303269?epid=644445726&hash=item1aacec1725:g:XN8AAOSwT~lf0oj5 It controls boost pressure for the turbo so is def needed.