thamestrader

Yes. I leave the Infotainment unit switched on, with radio volume turned down. If TSR was available on the Assist Systems screen.

What, I think, you could be referring to is Traffic Sign Recognition (TSR). This was an option for MY 2023 so it would depend if your car was specified to be built with TSR. I have a 73 plate Sportline that does not have TSR, and despite having the necessary camera and software, the coding is known but it cannot be applied as it has been protected. I had my Karoq analysed by HazzyDayz who had hoped to retro fit TSR by updating the the coding, but if wax impossible. You can set the Nav screen to display the speed limit for the current road. I have this switched on but it’s only visible on the large central screen and it’s not displayed on the virtual cockpit screen. Generally the map speed limit data is up to date.

My Sportline 4x4 is only 2 yrs old and done 12,000 miles so not needed a DSG oil change yet. My previous wet clutch DSG had 3 oil and filter change services, the last in 2023 was around £300 parts labour and VAT, the oil is expensive 2015 £68 +vat, 2018 £75 + vat, 2023 £101 +vat, and going up alot each time too. I think my DQ 250 only had 5 litres too,. Your quote doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

This is a really good tyre comparison website. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Compare/AllSeasonContact-2-VS-CrossClimate-2.htm I’ve copied it from a post I made in the Karoq section. You can compare any tyre against any other tyre, so for example to get the All Season with better wet weather rating than snow if that’s more relevant to you. I enddd up putting Continental Contact All Season on the Fabia as the wet rating was better than Cross Climates which were better in snow. Wet roads being more common than snow in Buckinghamshire.

@JXR I recommend trying the tyre comparison site I mentioned on the earlier post. With the 19” alloys on the 4x4 Sportline I’m keen to find an All Season tyre with some form of rim protector which the current Bridgestone Duellers have.

I sprayed Silicone lubricant on the plunger, checked that it went in and popped out again when presses a couple of times and thought I had cracked it. When I pushed the flap to close, it somehow got caught on the plunger and couldn't be pushed flush, neither would it open. It was almost as though it had locked. The Techie indicated that he'd have to disconnect the connector for the locking mechanism to prevent it happening again, but it appears that he didn't because it still locks, unlocks and pops open as it should. His comment about leaving it disconnected would suggest that it is the lock mechanism that jams in the plunger and prevents its openimng. That video is very useful, sliding the cover flap off to expose the insides.

Admittedly this is rather off topic. The boring stats are as follows: Mitsubishi Space Runner 172K miles (from new) 1995 to 2004 - cost 5p per mile maintenance Mazda Premacy 160K (ex demo 6 months old) 2004 to 2013 7 p per mile maintenance VW Touran 108K from new 2013 -2024 9 p per mile maintenance Skoda Karoq from 1100 miles (used 6 months old) 2024 - current 2p per mile maintenance. Fiat Punto 30K miles from 9,000 miles (Used 1 yr ) 1998 - 2016 11p per mile maintenance Skoda Fabia 20K miles from 900 miles (used 1 yr old) 2016 - current 23p per mile maintenance Interestingly it is the low mileage cars that have the higher cost per mile, the 3 high mileage vehicles cost per mile when allowing for inflation is probably very similar.

Update - popped into Marshall Skoda MK. Service Agent said they'd be able to open it but would need to be booked in to be fixed properly, under warranty. A Tech come out, released the flap, told me its a known problem - the flap now seems to be working properly. Its booked in 1st week in January. All sorted within 30 minutes on Christmas Eve. Panic averted.

Anyone had the fuel filler flap jam on closing so it’s partially closed but won’t open or close? Kinda stuck now.

@DSL i have books with refuellings and odometer readings going back to 1977, before that I had a little plastic “thingy” about 3” by 1” with two disks on the top edge and 3 dials on the bottom. The fuel volume was recorded on the top dials and the last 3 digits of the odometer on the lower dials. I have maintained spreadsheets recording maintenance and repair costs since around 1999. As you say the totals can be scary. I will look later to check.

This was a round trip MK to Bristol - MK. The 2.0 TSI is a bit thirstier than the 1.5 TSI - I usually manage to get 45 - 48 on this journey but today 44.5 mpg was the best I could manage on the trip, trip to Tescos last night dragged the overall down to 41.

l’ve often wondered how accurate the Driving Data stats for fuel consumption were on my Karoq. This week I have been able to calibrate with brim to brim refuellings. As the image below shows 41 mpg on a 265 mile round trip to Bristol today. Refuelled when I got back 30 litres for 265 miles is 40.1 mpg, so I reckon that’s close enough to rely on. My previous car it was always about 4-5 mpg optimistic, although I believe VCDS could be used to adjust it to be more accurate.

Since 1985 we’ve kept all our cars a minimum of 10 years or over at least 140,000 miles for the main car and around 16 years for the second car. We are only on the 3rd second car which is a 2015 Fabia, that’s done 21,000 miles. It has annual oil and filter changes, one battery replacement, 1 cambelt, set of tyres last month. The main cars have done: 108k, 145k, 151k, 162k, 108k between 100,000 and 110,000 miles was when they needed extra things replaced, shocks, wheel bearings, ball joints, and then they were back to normal service items. Typically had a set of front pads and perhaps front discs never needed rear brake pads or shoes replaced. The 162k Mazda had a new clutch at 140k but that was preventative - I prefer to avoid breakdowns if possible. So I think you would be able to keep your Fabia going without major expense for many more years to come. Our first “second” car we still own it’s on 40,000 miles.

I have the 2.0 TSI 4x4 DSG, how it compares to an Octavia VRS I can’t say as I’ve not driven the VRS. However I don’t think you will disappointed especially in Sport mode! To go back to the 1.5 TSI engine, yes it did have issues, yes they have improved, have the problems been completely solved - not entirely, and are much more noticeable with the manual gearbox, so the DSG is the better option. However the 1.5 TSI DSG is 2wd and prone to front wheel spin when pulling out of junctions. I don’t think the 1.5 TSI is available, in the UK at least, as a 4x4. In 10,000 miles in my 2.0 TSI I’ve not encountered front wheelspin when pulling away, even at damp junctions, where my 2.0 TDI DSG 2wd Touran would spin and traction control would cut in. The 1.5 TSI uses the dry clutch DQ 200 DSG, the 2.0 TSI uses the wet clutch DQ 381. The road holding and grip of the 2.0 TSI is excellent. The rear suspension on the 4x4 Karoqs is the VAG multilink setup ad used on the VW Touran, Passat and probably Octavia and Superb. The 2wd Karoqs use a torsion beam rear suspension.

My independent garage, who has maintained all my cars for the last 20 years, looks at it this way based on his years of experience. An engine that is used every day for a regular 40 mile trip to work and back puts the cambelt through 10 heat cycles a week 5 per hundred miles. An engine that does 10 short 3-4 mile trips a week puts the cambelt through 15 heat cycles per 100 miles. That it is heat cycles which cause stretching and cracking of the cambelt rather than overall mileage. Both our Skodas do mostly short journeys so I replace the cambelt at 5 year intervals, as we keep our cars for 10-15 years. That’s only 2 cambelts per car which is considerably less than a new engine. I know this doesn’t specifically answer your question, how long you intend to keep your Karoq may be the deciding factor.

Firstly car locking with the keys inside is a software fault and there has been a free update available for nearly a year now. If your car has not had that applied I ask for that to be done. With regard to the engine cutting out when braking is this a 1.5 TSI manual? Some DSG cars the engine will cut out when braking gently at about 3mph but the engine restarts instantly the brake odds Liz released.

If the water pump is the same end of the engine as the cambelt - and if they’ve had to go that far - maybe it’s worth asking about replacing any belts etc in that area while it’s stripped down.

I note a couple of replies above mention the engine cutting out approaching a junction as the gearbox goes through neutral. Now I know my 2,0 TSI DSG is not the same at all, but it can do something very similar and I wonder if this is what is also happening on the 1.5 TSI. If I am slowing down, typically when turning right from a central right turn lane with very light brake pressure, i.e not enough to bring the car to a complete standstill though, at about 3 mph the revs drop to zero but the moment I release the brake pedal the engine restarts. I think this is the Stop/Start system cutting the engine as it (wrongly) assumes the car is coming to a complete stop. Has anyone had this cutting out happen when stop start is disabled?

Bit of an update. The nearside reversing light wasn't working again and the 'Check Reversing Light' message was displayed along with the Triangle - what I now refer to as the 'Bermuda Triangle'. A quick tap on the light unit and the reversing light comes back on. So light of replies received I decided to remove the light unit and examine the bulbs and contacts. First though a few hints and tips regarding the cluster removal. The light unit is held by two Torx head screws on one side, on the other, outer, side where the unit meets the rear wing its a push fit over two studs, a plastic trim removal blade is required to prise the unit off the studs. The cable that plugs into the socket on the backplate backplate does not have enough slack to allow the plug to be removed so the backplate has to be unclipped. There are 4 or 5 clips that all have to be released. Being plastic care has to be taken not to snap them off. I found pressing the backplate onto the unit body by each clip would reduce the pressure on the clip which made it easier to release, work round each clip in turn and its released. There are two small bulbs that are outside the backplate, they both twist 90 degrees to release and pull out. The plug on the cable can be released by pressing the side by the red plastic which will release the clip. The contacts were not corroded, the only thing I did notice was that the reversing bulb was not as securely held as all the other bulbs. After removing and refitting the bulb a number of times I come to the conclusion that it needed to be inserted firmly and twisted into position until it located in an indent to hold the little pins on the body of the bulb. Doing this the bulb seemed secure. Put it all back together and everything is now working as it should - it remains to be seen for how long though......I smeared some Silicone grease over each of the clips on the backplate and their mating points on the light body - it makes it easier to slide on and off.

Still on the original set of Bridgestone Duellers, which are summer tyres. Car has done 12,000 miles on these tyres, swapped fronts to back at10,000 miles at the end of August, as the outside shoulders were wearing. Wanted to even out the wear so I could replace the whole set and get the lower prices. Top tyre is left front, lower tyre is left rear. Apart front the obvious shoulder wear on the front, there is not much difference in overall wear. LF 4.5, 5.0, 5.5, 5.5. LR 5.0, 5.5, 5.5, 6.0. Measuring outside to inside. Outside is on the left of the photo. Hopefully these will now be OK until around 20,000 when I'll replace them. Replacement will probably be one of Pirelli SF3, Michelin CC3 SUV, Continental All Season (just fitted these to our Fabia) or Bridgestone Turbanza 6 All Season. If one of them has a rim protector moulding that could be the deciding factor over price or grip, as the 19 inch alloys and 45 profile tyres don't give any protection. I had 2 sets of Cross Climates after the original Michelin Primacys on the previous VW Touran, but the Continentals and Bridgestones come out better in the Tyre Tests. This is a really informative site - you can compare each tyre against the other and see how it performs. AllSeasonContact 2 VS CrossClimate 2 Tyre Comparison - Tyre Reviews And Ratings

Has any one had problems with the bulbs in the rear light clusters causing a "Check Bulb " message, which is correct but simply tapping the light cluster or undoing the screws to remove causes the bulb to illuminate and the error to clear? My partners Fabia has twice displayed this message for a reversing light bulb. The car is an Auto which unlike a manual, it's not possible to switch on the ignition and engage reverse and check the lights oneself, So she started the engine selected reverse and I looked checked the rear lights, offside reverse light is not working tapped the cover and the light comes on, tapped it a few more times and it remains on. So dodgy contact but its stayed working for some months. This week the "Check Reversing Light" message comes up again for the other side, so decide to replace the bulb, remove the cluster easily but outside at night its difficult to release the clips, so replace the cluster, and reverse the Fabia into the garage, and now the reversing lights are both working again. So decide to leave working lights alone, on the if it ain't broke don't mess with it, but the theres a part of me that says its broke some of the time and it shouldn't be broke any of the time! Has anyone else had this intermittent contact issue on the rear light clusters and actually found corrosion on the bulb holders or contacts?

@Barneyboy48 you should be able to connect you phone using just Bluetooth. It all becomes so much easier that way. If then uses the built in Phone functionality of the Amundsen unit which means all the steering wheel buttons work and the phone contacts etc display in the centre of the dash …

I think the lower (40 & 45) profile tyres with smaller sidewalls don’t flex as much as 50 and 60 profiles so they wear more when cornering. My previous VW did 50,000 miles on its first set of tyres, next set did 35,000. But I don’t expect to get that sort of mileage from the Karoq.

How many miles have the tyres done? The outside edges of the front tyres of my 4x4 2.0 TSI were wearing after 10k miles so switched fronts to back reckon I’ll get 20k front the set. I live in Milton Keynes famous for its roundabouts not good for tyre wear especially if one utilises the grip and handling

Look at the navigation settings, you can have the speed limit for the current road displayed on the map (I have the map displayed most if the time), and the. You will get a bong if you exceed that speed and it displays an ! by the speed. The bong can be silenced by turning off audio route instructions.