brettikivi

having listened to them extensively in the A2, I'd have to recommend a silk tweeter and I would absolutely not go for coaxials. What's the budget?

I'm intrigued on the build details. It's not far off how I was thinking about making this happen..

^^ this. But run Clean first. https://www.buffalotech.com/knowledge-base/cleaning-a-disk-in-windows-7-using-diskpart You don't need special software for this, but run the command prompt as an administrator. Please also eject the card afterwards, it really does close out the filesystem access. this is not a microsoft limitation, it's the SD body. SD = up to 2GB, SDHC = up to 32GB, SDXC = more than that, I believe. all different addressing. Example: if I want my action cams to have files of over 4GB in size, I have to use SDXC cards of more than 64GB.

That depends on the error on the sensor. I've had an issue with a lambda sensor before where it produces a constant 4V: that's incorrect but not incorrect enough for it to trigger a light. If the movement isn't detected, and there's only one sensor on the axle, it's going to be difficult for the car to pick that up, especially if it reports "ok". Maybe dump some extra weight in there and go for a short drive and then remove it and repeat?

so a couple of things i've found: if there are too many files on the card, the db view will refuse to play ball. I would suggest browsing by file structure. I currently have a 256GB full-size SD in the car and it's got around 5000 songs on there, with 700+ albums and a bunch of directories with 2000+ songs in. The Database says "no" at that point. If the file format is wrong, it will normally say that, so "this file is not playable" or "no music found". I've seen a hard reboot help (press and hold power button for 10 seconds). Other than that, I would strongly suggest checking the precise format the files are in; they might have an .mp3 file extension, that doesn't mean they are actual .mp3 encoded files. There's also a couple of different ways they could be encoded, even if they're really MP3; one is CBR or Constant Bit Rate, the other is VBR or Variable Bit Rate. There's also the sample frequency which makes a difference. Put the card in your laptop, pick a couple of files. Check they are CBR and 44.1KHz, then put them in a directory in the root of the card. If they play, great. Now take the card back to the PC, add an artist folder, create a subfolder, drop the same files in there. Test in the car. If it works, great. Now go add another couple of folders worth and see what happens. Foobar (application in the app store on Windows) has some options to move stuff around, so you can just drop all the music in there and then export it based on %artist% or %album% etc to specific folders. You could also try exporting to MP3 again from there with high quality and see if that makes a difference, as foobar is pretty good at playing most things back. Are you sure, if you're selecting based on an album, that the tracks for that album are there? Not that there's a playlist and tracks 2, 3, 6 and 9 are missing so it complains...

What encoding? Yes, MP3, but VBR or CBR? And max 16 bit 44Khz? how are you trying to access them from infotainment? DB view or file / folder view?

Looking earlier today, if I cruise at 50mph, around 4l/100 is eminently possible, so 70mpg. Over 120km/h and we're talking 6.3 or closer to 45mpg. I've just remembered the incident with the air thingy. Back in the depths of winter, my car decided to start with a fault - "no Start / Stop", yellow check engine light. Ok, I drive it home, check it. Some air intake temperature sensor - so I bring it to the dealer. They give me a 1.4 TSI Octavia combi courtesy car (Halogens, Nordman tyres, DSG). I drove it to the office and back, refilled at my usual station the next morning as "your car is ready, sir" came via text. 5.something litres per hundred, not bad. A little more than the 1.0, but not much. Turns out the error wasn't fixed, so my car went back in the next day and I got another 1.4TSI (again poverty spec, halogens, a/c, not even a block heater, but Michelins). I drove this for a couple of days, got very similar numbers to my own car. Worse - no block heater does make a difference - but not massively so. Consider it still under 6l/100, where 5.5 or so is my winter norm. I don't think the engine size itself is going to make much difference to your consumption numbers. It's your route, the speeds, the stop / start and whether you cruise at 80, 100 or 120km/h. For me this makes a massive difference; 4.2 vs 5.5 vs 6.5l. So from nearly 70 mpg down to 45 as the speed increases (and the tyres don't make as much difference as I thought). I also didn't experience much difference in terms of acceleration or "niceness" from having four cylinders vs three; no real road noise changes. Yes, this was winter, but still. I would drive both and see. I find the 1.0 will sing nicely past 5500 if you let it, and third is all you need for most overtakes, which is really nice. Drop from 6 to 5 to 3, plant it, thanks, we're done. If I were driving fully loaded more often, especially in hot areas, I would want more. But since I'm mostly one-up and empty, patrolling the motorway to the office and airport (at least, once upon a time I did....) then a 2.0 TSI seems overkill.

I'm on my second 1.0. Economy is in my sig.

you need new door controllers, the parts for folding are not included. Same with the dimming. I would personally estimate this to be a €500 thing. There's a list of part numbers on Sasha's thread.

there are three nets. the big one for the floor and the two vertical ones that go side-to-side. All have clips and the vertical ones are a "pocket". I don't see the price issue here, they're nice and elastic, well made, and take abuse well. I had a set in the old car and have them in the new one and would miss them if they weren't there. I currently have one in the estate, the side-to-side at the rear. It's great for shopping.

my TSI had something similar recently and it was the intake air temperature sensor. But it came with an error on the dash.

I've written it before and I'll write it again. Be very, very aware that you can break things with these tools. You can and should make backups and notes of exactly what you changed when you do so. You will need to understand some of the implications of what you're up to - the names are labelled frequently in German ("standlicht", "Abblendlicht", "lichtfunktion") and following instructions accurately is important. If it says byte 4, it means byte 4 and not 3 and / or 5. No-one knows what changing those other bits will do on your car with its specific combination of control boxes. Experiences with FL models and OBD11 are mixed - there were an awful lot of changes in the FL and not all of those seem to have been reflected accurately in the instructions / statements on the app. Note, for example, Sasha's upgrades on the door modules and how some appear to work for some people, others don't. It's all at your own risk. For small stuff I would personally suggest VCDS Lite on a laptop with an Autodia cable. I currently have a licence for CarPort and find it to be more expensive and less functional, so I will pick VCDS up at some point when I need it again (which will probably be next week). For fault code reading, you will not even need a full licence, so it's the cost of the cable. I would also avoid leaving a BT reader in the OBD port; I consider it a security risk.

Thread from the dead... try: window all the way down. Hold for 2 secs. Then all the way up, hold for 2 secs. Back down, hold for two secs. Now try the "auto" again. Repeat for each window with an issue.

Cruise control is the answer. English *isn't* the nav's first language. German instructions are better. No "in 300 yards please turn right", it's "in 300m turn right". It's an instruction, why's it phrased as a request? There's a very good reason I use Here and Spotify: they work together across Bluetooth and generally give decent directions. I had the builtin nav on a rental once and despised it. Also don't need to cable anything unless it's for power.

Yes, this is exactly it. Having said that, I don't find mine turning on early enough (snow doesn't mean they'll turn on, for example, and fog also doesn't help. But setting them to turn on with wipers is great as it means I don't have to remember. The wife's car turns its lights on super-early, the Octavia is set to Late, I think, and I find that OK.

I've seen this on a couple of cars - slow fill to start and then continue was my solution. I agree there may be a breather pipe problem. Edit says I remember turning the pump nozzle upside-down in a couple of cases, that seemed to help.

I suspect the 17/18B are the ones with a black inside, not chrome. - Bret

LEDs do not do left-right. Bi-Xenons do. I had BiXenon on the old car and LEDs on this one and the difference is distinctive. MySkoda should do vehicle information based on VIN. Elsewhere (Sweden, for example) you can get it based on numberplate.

This. Mine resets occasionally, so fuelly / spritmonitor is the only full record I have. - Bret

take them out again and see if the problem remains. Essentially it sounds remarkably like there's some form of electrical brownout in the car's systems happening. So, remove the changes and see what happens. If they are the cause of the brownout, for whatever reason (and they do have some electronics in - there's a pulse sent through the system regularly to see if the door is open. Halogens are too slow to see this, LEDs will, and therefore it's suppressed --> these electronics may not agree with the car) - then you need to replace them.

if I remember correctly oil and water coolers are upgraded, along with the fan. And cabling is pulled to the rear of the car, otherwise you need to pull cables to the BCM. This is all to do with being able to retain towing performance at elevated temperatures and geographies (i.e. over the mountains in summer).

did you check that balance and fader are set to 0? What happens if you move the sound to that speaker only?

let's do the math on this: Currently, I hit 5.2l/100. Litres per hundred km is a linear relationship. If I get 5% higher consumption numbers, then I'm looking at 5.2+(5.2*0.05), so 5.46l/100. If it were 10%, that's 5.2+0.52. 5.7l/100. I get around 800km to a tank... 8 * 0.52 = 4.16 litres more fuel used, so around €6 on a tank if the fuel is €1.50 per litre (which it approximately is). I get more variance than that from day to day, with the same trip, on the same road, at around the same time. Price per km: assuming 5.2l /100 vs 5.7l/100. 5.2 liters @ 1.5 each --> 7.8€ for 100km, so 8c/km 5.7 liters @ 1.5 each --> 8.55€ for 100km, so 8,5c/km. A 0.5c per km increase is minimal. "people could check", yes, they could. But scientific tests are going to be thin on the ground. Back in the day, there were tests done by What Car claiming 10% worse numbers (though the numbers don't seem to have been published). The consumer institute here did some pooh-poohing; yes, there could be a mild increase in consumption, but only in relation to the different energy content of ethanol vs petrol. From a logical standpoint, if Ethanol contains half the energy of Petrol, you've reduced the energy content by a *maximum* of 2.5%. That it's 40% means that number is slightly higher, but it's still not 10. Having dragged Excel out, the specific energy content should be around 96.9% of E5 (90*100)+(10*40) vs (95*100)+(5*40). It used to be that 98 was around 2c/l more expensive than 95. Now it's around 7 to 9 c / l.

re: consumption changes: https://www.zemo.org.uk/assets/other/E10 in Finland.pdf <-- this has a bunch of numbers on slide 12. The implication is 1% change. - Bret

E10 all the time here. No issues, filled a 1.4TSI the other week, or the other rental the week before that. 5.5l/100 without trying. Or over 45000km in the previous 1.0TSI or 28000 kms in this one ... or the 1.4 TSI Superb I had last year for 1500kms. All my economy numbers are on E10. It's either that or pay another however-many-it-is-rightnow cents per litre for E5 98.