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This morning with a little water sprayed on the car.

This might be worth a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqf6zNkKtVY

I got a copy of this as a kid and have always enjoyed it, though it's way out of date now. Does anyone else have a copy of this classic? A modern update of this book would be fantastic, but I doubt the AA will be producing one. Anyone know of an up to date alternative to match it?

This may help. https://www.evo.co.uk/skoda/octavia-vrs/19473/skoda-octavia-vrs-245-review-the-hottest-octavia-gets-hotter However specs do chop and change pretty much every year, sometimes more than once a year.

Dacia #1(According to Dace motor group) Skoda are #2, which is a little surprising. Tesla Model 3 in Iceland surprised me too, but can't really explain why.

As usual I'm late to the party, but here's the underside of my car, with what I think are slightly different panels (one each side) in place.

That's a good point. I've had a search online and getting part numbers for more recent vehicles is surprisingly awkward. I suppose recent vehicles are less likely to need parts, but even so, I'd have expected to find some sort of online catalogue. I'll keep looking, and if all else fails, I'll give my friendly garage a call and ask for them to look up some part numbers for me. UPDATE: Spoke to my garage and he couldn't get me a part number for the GPF for my vehicle. He suspects they're too new to be listed (for him at least.) He also suspected that due to the limitations of space, the GPFs may all be the same for a particular engine type, regardless of power output. Which is pretty much what @stever750said. Certainly for Octavias with much the same space available for fitment, that would make sense. The 245PS and 190PS may use the same GPF, for all I know. Or not.

I haven't got round to that yet, @e-Roottoot, I was hoping one of the experts already knew the answer.

Hi! Yeah, I was TBH. I figured with a higher power variant, they'd use a more free-flowing GPF. I'm assuming the GPF is a bit restrictive in gas flow and it would be weird to have the same GPF restriction in a 300+PS engine that you have in a 190PS engine. Though I may well be wrong on this, I don't know much about GPFs at all.

You can see the valve injection present on the 190 and absent on the 245. Very helpful video. When I say valve injection, I mean the rail that injects fuel in via the valves, and not just into the top of the combustion chamber. (I had a real bee in my bonnet about wanting this feature on my Octavia, and was a bit unclear on which engines did or didn't have it when I bought my car, as the 190 TSI Octavia wasn't well known.)

Oof! That's a nasty whack someone's given your car. My kid opened my wife's door on our neighbour's car and put a tiny ding in it. I went straight round and rang their doorbell to own up to it and apologise. I'd rather take the insurance hit than be on bad terms with my neighbours, TBH. As it happens, they were lovely about it and didn't GAF, so all's well that ends well. I left the option open for them to change their mind and bung it through the insurance if it turned out that it later bothered them, which seemed like the reasonable thing to do. To put something like the dent on your car then hit and run is a pretty scummy thing to do.

The EA888 Gen 3 comes in quite a variety of power outputs, from under 200BHP to over 300BHP, depending on the application. The GPF is now mandatory, and adds some restriction to the exhaust gas flow. It seems to me, that the GPF for a EA888 for a high power application EA888 is likely to be less restrictive than the GPF for a low-power application. So the obvious (to me) next step in this train of thought is, can the GPF from a high-power EA888 Gen 3 be used on a low-power variant to improve exhaust gas flow? (I can't be the only person this idea has occurred to.) Can this be done? Has anyone done this? If so, how did it work out?

Sounds very impressive! I had a look on the website, but the DKZA in the Octavia 3 isn't listed. What's the breakdown of costs for this work, @skodamota?

Have you tried driving with the current MPG display activated, so you can see how economically your driving at any given time? I've found with my 2L Gen 3B engine, I can get silly economy with VERY light throttle use at city speeds, but much more than a feather touch on the throttle and MPG drops dramatically. I can't always use this technique in any kind of traffic because it results in infuriatingly slow acceleration, but just pootling about at 30MPH can give surprisingly high instantaneous economy, returning about 40MPG as a trip MPG for short city journeys, which I think is pretty good. I'd expect the 1.5 to be a fair bit better. I previously drove diesels for many years, and got used to being able to be fairly heavy with the throttle without much of an MPG penalty. (I quite miss that at times, TBH.) The petrol car is way more sensitive to heavier throttle use, but it's an interesting challenge to eke out more MPG with light throttle use. Driving on ECO mode is less economical under a lot of circumstances for me, because the engine idles on lifting the throttle as the car freewheels, rather than fuel being cut off (albeit with the subsequent drop in speed) as you lift the throttle and the car stays in gear.

I've just tried removing my oil dipstick from my EA888 3B and I got to the stage where I figured there must be some sort of clip retaining the dipstick, as the force needed to remove it was way in excess of what should be required. It was like trying to pull Excalibur out of the stone. Anyway I just hoiked it out with what felt like undue force, and noticed there was a little ring of yellow plastic from the dipstick handle which I guess had welded itself to the top of the dipstick tube. At least I know the oil level is fine.

Just found this and updated the POI as per @bigade1instructions for the latest update. Quick and easy to do, thanks very much!

As with all these decisions: Try and boil the question down to "What is the problem you are trying to solve?". In your case, it seems to be faulty air-con, and the need to travel reliably for long distances. Assuming the faulty air-con is the only big problem with your car, I'd be tempted to fix the air-con and hang on to your car until you definitely swap it for an LHD car, or decide not to move to France. Your 1.9TD Octavia should be perfectly happy on long runs to France. That said, if you feel your car is a bit iffy for long trips, maybe you're right to drop it. If you sell your car now, money will be taken off on account of the air-con not working anyway, though probably not as much money as the cost of fixing it. (You might be able to get a value on just how much from WeBuyAnyCar). As for car buying advice, the way things are now with car sales, I'd be very averse to buying a car privately from anyone I didn't already know. (And even then I'd HPI it.)

Love this thread! What a great job you've done on this car. It looks fantastic and everything is done properly, combining form and function. Outstanding!

Should be in the fuel filler cap and under the passenger seat for scraper and brolly respectively. Mine was missing the brolly, which I got the dealer to replace before I collected the car.

The 1.0 seems to be an excellent engine, but it is likely to be working pretty hard to be lugging an Octavia around, especially if carrying passengers and luggage. Long term, I would suspect the engines are going to be pretty tired by the time they reach 100k miles, but as you're only doing short daily trips, you might not be running the car to a high mileage. Personally I'd be inclined to go for a more powerful car that is working less hard to return the same driving experience, but the 1.0 seems like a good fit for you if you are happy with the way it drives.

I would love to see full details of the criteria for inlet valve timing changes on that Gen 3B Budack engine. There seems to be quite a dearth of information of the variable valve timing on the Budack. (I don't know how much there is available on the outlet VVT for the VRS cars, but I haven't been looking, tbh.) All I've seen is that when the Budack engine is "under load" the valve timing changes from economical early valve closing to full duration valve opening. I've been wondering about remaps that change the VVT characteristics, so that driving on "Economy" mode locks the cam into early closing mode and inhibits full duration opening unless the kickdown throttle switch is set, and driving in "sport" mode locks the cam in full duration mode and inhibits early closing mode, with normal driving mode switching freely between the two modes according to engine load. Should be a fairly harmless mod as no additional power is being wrung out of the engine. I wonder if any tuner has done that?

I seem to recall there's only around 30 registered in the country. I'll have to check the latest figures later this month. There's not *that* many of the Octavia MK3 190 2WDs either, but about 10x more than the 4WD version.

Sounds like they'd be great additions to the Briskoda forums.

Hello! Lurk away, there's loads of useful info on here.

Not seen anyone mention this in this thread, but afaik, the 280 doesn't have FSI and I thought the 245 did, but I'm not sure. Perhaps someone who's familiar with the 245 can confirm?