Alasdair1

If the oil level is upto your finger thats very high. Its either been overfilled by a lot or something is raising the level. If it was water it would be emulsified so wonder if diesels getting in somewhere which would make oil very thin and explain the run on. It is the correct dip stick? Alasdair

On my Mk2 there are two options. One with three bolt fixing and four bolts fixing. I used APEC and two years in no problem. Alasdair

Probably come from somewhere near the sea. As said check earth straps especially near starter and also cables to starter. It could be the starter thats failing. Had one in an old van that started to crank slowly and half the coils had burnt out so only half power. The flashing glowplug may be down to a few things. Could be low battery/good battery with bad earth also check your brake lights are working as well. Found this when I was working on my sons MK1 so may be the same. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Sm3QJJNRZo

I reckon that for £1600 these days for an aproved full electric towbar isnt bad at all especially as its aproved one and fitted by a dealer. I suppose it depends how often you would use it. If once in a while go detacheable .Mines are all fixed as I use them all the time. Alasdair

My local skoda dealer used to use a local trailer/towbar company to fit their towbars. My folks saved a fair bit of money by bypassing the dealer and going direct to them Alasdair

Hopefully its just the engine mounts. Sons mk1 fabia is a 2006 and his dogbone link was fine when I did the clutch. Reckon you could raise engine enough with block of wood to distribute the load on sump and do each side seperately. Alasdair

When my old volvo turbo blew up I just bought a fairly cheap second hand one and it was fine for years. I may have been lucky. Few on ebay but reckon might be tricky getting a decent one. Might be worth contacting some breakers to see if they have anything thats guaranteed working/low mileage etc. A recore job is possible but has to be done properly and everything accurately balanced etc to avoid early failure. You could see if you could maybe get a recon echange unit. Alasdair

When I said not to bad to change I meant the engine mounts. Think the bushes in dog bone are more difficult although I have seen polybush repair kits for them. I think there is an insert to save removing old bushes in chassis etc. looks like this Alasdair

Im used to diesels and old old pertrol/lpg with distributors etc. The double spark confused me first but found out about wasted spark systems but to me something doesnt look right. As said may be wrong Alasdair

I assume the two plugs sparking at same time is a wasted spark system I may be wrong but firing order is I think 1,3,4,2 as in your vid of the injectors fuel pattern but it doesnt seem to match sparking pattern. Seems to spark 5 times on 2,3 and then 5 times on 1,4 Alasdair

I agree that mount has had it and due to the movement I reckon the other side should be replaced at same time. On my Mk1 theres a dogbone (gearbox to chassis). I would have that checked as well. If replacing it there are two bolts but one is shorter and goes into crossmember with steering rack. I you get them mixed up it can destroy rack. From memory there not too bad to change. Alasdair

You learn something new on here every day. For once they actually removed an antipolution device. Normally they add more as in dpf/gpf etc. and make the cars more complicated and less reliable/more to go wrong. If only they would remove the dpf and egr on diesels my cars would be a lot happier. Alasdair

I assumed all newer petrols had them as when I was looking for a purge valve for my sons mk1 1.2 and egr valves came up which surprised me also. (although that was autodoc so maybe only fitted in europe?) Going to have to look tomorrow when its light and warmer

I read that they have an egr valve and have seen some for sale but as its petrol will not be so bad at gunging up like diesels do. I may be wrong but worth checking. You could always put a bottle of cleaner in from time to time or the odd tank of superunleaded once in a while as it has more added cleaners. Alasdair

Not sure but definitly go for petrol not Diesel. My old 1.6tdi is struggling these days as I stopped long runs and now have to take it out about once a week for a good blast down the dual carriage way to get it to regen. Had an old volvo petrol that was fine for 3-5 mile trips for years but engine oil tended to get a bit emulsified after a while due to it never reaching full temp especially in winter. You could always as I do take it out for a longer run every week and as said a good blast down the dual carriageway wouldnt do any harm. I think that engine may have a GPF so may need a longer run to keep it clean and the same goes for the EGR. Alasdair

I use NGK in everything from strimmer/chainsaws to cars without any problems and have been using them for years. NGK have a plug finder https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/ I personally avoid others especially unknown brands. Alasdair

I would be inclined to get it scanned to see what if anything major caused it. It should have stored a code. On my older diesels limp mode seems to just reduce power to engine and limits revs. Engine sounds and runs ok but if you go any higher than 2nd gear it doesnt have the power as they seem to be limited to about 1800rpm. Same in my sons petrol fabia. Too me a long time to get home the last time. The shaking of the engine could be a number of things so get it scannned. Alasdair

It may be the connector at rear of cluster thats needing cleaned or reseated. My old octavia had weird dash problems with random lights and guages not performing well. I removed cleaned and reseated and it came back to life. Check the cluster for dry solder joints while you have it removed and remember to disconnect battery before removal as imobilser can stick on. Alasdair

I agree plus I wait for at least 30min before touching them. Mate was very lucky he wasnt hurt when trying to remove one in his steering wheel. He was under dash at the time but if had been in seat would have been a different outcome. Alasdair

Did read that some aftermarket ABS sensors can be very slightly too long. Hope you have a box of use once hub nuts and get it sorted. Alasdair

Meant to add you could try turning airbag off via the switch in glovebox if the MK1 has one. Mine is off on the MK2 and passed MOT ok. Alasdair

Think the wiring for passenger airbag is behind glovebox. Yellow if I remember. The connectors are usually good but check the wiring there. You could try and reset and see as sometimes its a random blip. Alasdair

Remembered the company I got mine from. They may be able to help. eBayItems for sale by everyexhaustpartlimited | eBayShop eBay for great deals from everyexhaustpartlimited!

On the MK1 the cat and front pipe/flexi are seperate but you need a repair flexi with a slight angle at one end not straight. I did a vw FOX which may be similar to yours but the flexi is part of the cat with not enough pipe to clamp a repair to once old old one was cut off so needed welded unless you replace cat and flexi. Alasdair

When I use those strip connectors I have started to cover in silicone sealant, let set and then self amalgamating tape. Have been finding that some are copper plated steel and tend to rust pretty quickly. Glad you got it sorted Alasdair