Alasdair1

It as said may take longer than 3 miles to get car upto temp especially in colder weather. If it doesnt get up to temp after a longer run I would suspect failing thermostat. Had same on my Octavia. Only reached temp in summer. The lack of drive when cold may point to low transmission fluid or the transmission fluid is past it. If its red ATF then it should be a nice cherry red colour. If its past it it will look dirty brown. Changed mine on an old auto people carrier and had big improvement in taking off and gear changes. If its a DSG box it may need serviced. Alasdair

The drivers side motor also supplies the passenger side with power. If the passenger side is working then I assume the drivers side is ok. I would replace switch as they arent expensive but before you do put press window switch down and keep holding for 10 secs once its completely down and press up and again hold for 10 secs once completely up. It will reset windows motor and in my case bring back auto up and down. Alasdair

Think the switches are similar to tv remote control so when they get dirty/greasy/wet stop working. I tried cleaning mine but ended up buying another switch as they are only about £10 for an aftermarket one. On the fabia mk1 the drivers window motor unit controls the passenger side. It may be the same on the MK2. Does the window work from the drivers side? If the drivers side is failing it can cause problems with passenger side. On mine the passenger side stopped working quickly followed by the drivers side. There is also the possibilty that the wires that come through either the drivers door or passenger door pillar are broken/damaged. If its the drivers side motor/controller then Breezy pete on here fixed mine for me. Very quick and reasonable priced service. Alasdair

I reckon the part number is 1K0959704J SK2 and the rest of the characters are maybe production codes/marks. I googled the above and LLL parts say its been replaced by 1K0959704JSK3 then replaced by another that they dont reckognise with SK1? Tried skodaparts.com and when entering the SK2 part number it came back with Škoda part number: 5K0 959 704 A SK3 1K0 959 704 AK SK1 1K0 959 704 AK SK3 1K0 959 704 J 002 1K0 959 704 J SK1 1K0 959 704 J SK2 1K0 959 704 J SK3 They say its for rear right skoda octavia mk2

Same here. My old 1.9tdi 08 plate and my 12 plate 1.6tdi are the same. My old volvo 940 used to blow the parking tickets away but the skoda seems very feeble and seems to take ages to defrost and clear windscreen even when turned to max. I did think it might need the heater flaps etc reset but was wary in case I made it worse. Would be interested if any one knows if its normal or a fault. Alasdair

Before removing panel check if you can that the window glass hasnt come out of the bottom of the regulator. There are holes in the metal panel to gain access. Its not unknown on a frosty day for the regulator to pull away from the glass if its frozen. If one side comes out then the glass is at an angle when raising and gets jammed. Alasdair

Its probably the window regulator thats either broken some plastic clips or cable has snapped/got wrapped round something. You have to drill out rivets to replace the regulator. On my sons fabia they are large special rivets and probably the same on the octavia. Part number for fabia mk1 rivet is N 910 788 01 They are 6.4 x 10 size rivets and you will need a heavy duty rivet gun to replace them. I got a riveter similar to this from amazon. Make sure it does 6.4mm Shop around for the rivets they vary a lot in price. Alasdair

If its the same as my 1.6tdi octavia its a great car. Previous was the 1.9tdiPD which I cant fault. Have noticed I have to keep revs a bit higher on the 1.6tdi to really get it going compared to the 1.9 probably as its a smaller engine with perhaps less torque. I try to give it a few long runs every couple of weeks to keep dpf clean and also with a good burn out down a motorway from time to time. Apart from the usual wear and tear its so far been excellent. Sitting at 120k and hopefully will keep going for another 100k Alasdair

If there is no filter on the outside of the tank I personally would add an inline one and get rid of the one in tank if possible. I have had problems in the past with mainly diesel in tank filters becoming blocked and have removed them and replaced with an inline one. Chances these days of getting dirty petrol I reckon is very small but its worth having a decent filter just in case plus you dont know how much sediment etc is in the bottom of the tank especially on older vehicles and outside the tank its easier and safer to change especially when its petrol. Alasdair

I have the same on my MK2 1.6tdi. Been trying to track it down for Months now. Everything checks out with no fault codes and no advises for MOT. Has become slightly worse when cornering and only when accelerating if I lift foot of accelerator pedal it disapears. I am thinking perhaps a problem with one of the front drive shafts or CV joints but can feel no movement or wear or clunks etc. Have been leaving it until it gets worse in the hope I can identify the problem but may have to put it into a garage to see if they can diagnose any problem. Mine is felt through the car not the steering wheel. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 I got to the tank through the wheel arch. The valve/pump is at the bottom so managed to remove it fairly easy without removing bumper. I think haynes did mention you have to remove bumper if replacing tank but I found I could get to pump and replace wihout removing . Haynes tend to give you full dismantling info but quite often you can work around it and remove less. From memory I think a new pump with valve was £12 from amazon. Alasdair

My 1.6tdi octavia takes about 20-30 mins to reach OP temp(90degrees) on a fairly slow drive into town at at the moment -2c . My old 1.9tdi took about an hour and in real cold weather never reached 90. I was lucky to get 70 degrees as the thermostat was bad no matter howw long I drove for. It will depend on driving style/revs etc but I reckon if its not reaching 90 degrees in about 20/30 mins of normal driving the thermostat may need replacing. Alasdair

If the pump is working for the front then its ok but it may be the unit that splits between rear and front The pumps are not expensive and on my sons MK1 someone had had a go with silcone sealant to stop it leaking. His rear was similar and didnt work at all but when I replaced pump it was ok. As far as I know the pump works by changing direction depending on which screen is selected. I assume the motor is supplied with reverse polarity for the rear. I think there are flaps in the splitter unit that stop the flow to the screen you dont want to wash which may be stuck. You could try a +v/-v 12v feed direct to the pump and then reverse polarity it and see if both work. Alasdair

Its normally under car near rear wheel on passenger side attached to chassis. If its the same as my sons its a round metal unit with pipes to and from. Think its in a plastic bracket. Alasdair

Ah I see your problem. Maybe see if you can speak to a mechanic at skoda/vag dealer. They must have come accross this problem before or perhaps there is a skoda tool for the job. Did find a draper extension set but not sure if it would fit either or be of any use. They always seem to put things in awkward places. On my 1.6tdi I cant get the oil filter out without having to disconnect some wiring and a stainless pipe. Draper 94269

I picked up a cheap set on Amazon with a long flexible hose. The one I got was for an ancient forklift/LPG 1969 but I think there was a diesel version as well. It worked well. Dont know how accurate it actually is but I was checking all cylinders were roughly the same. These are the diesel versions https://www.amazon.co.uk/VEVOR-Compression-Cylinder-Cylinders-Equipment/dp/B0CGZNMP64/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BhK4KOjSmPMlySN5CyyeRCveIlza_Efppbnk0KnR7GsksieCu4vnq2kLGSahWuXxX_zzKiAOzdRfi1KbdCFZKwtkXEWouCVjGsiOLZT-bxOLwmJiv_2Pg56dsj1G250KeOBh82gmumKz7wBelvJmVUglFhsQQBbihZPRXy4lIFZBhk_uuMwoR_PcaORBQn8uMPTIqM2OT4aO8Qc9ciFvY04vBI3bR8ghCJn0jD8t4NI6gQG9bkhzjiZWOktZ2y6WfZe2MkJHSXgPIO8bRYqpIMjfN36wAPnOtRRIlOFiE40.LYUPqhJHgNBog7PkUkPwonW9ZC1qkynJY-npeeaPp0Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=VEVOR%2BDiesel%2BEngine%2BCompression%2BTester%2C%2B18%2Bpcs%2BCylinder%2BPressure%2BTest%2BTool%2BKit%2C&qid=1764437749&sr=8-1-spons&aref=RewQXPu6YP&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 There is another that looks like it has a 90 degree bend https://www.amazon.co.uk/Diesel-Engine-Compression-Automotive-PSI0737123870516/dp/B07FRHSZ2T/ref=sr_1_17?crid=29S6SE3TY1QOJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZmMp6dljXtNjimxK20pIYnwIcsucOrLTDVyUTLgHxEsEOqkMgtQDbxnq3_5JiG_K9FCuc6-AR8s30PJq4T57w9mNE01CtQ97YCCobB13B7H92338e0AIG87I32tB_IA6l5KNJmX802HPpt5aVvleiEwO5ne7TmKC-Sx_T37_4kgsHxpK48Vb3zjqxd8ngHFqK6OBnJ3Pf62V7iCGK4kSZ71pQyfi6LZ01Efa77uorA_KLqj-E7dJS1ahnSn7WXrEwKGkwHywEwJGnqic-D9JtQCbcZWRU5yxn1UpHBttYfI.xcPbt9yVDJ6i-zs8qTTBm_aITNPBH1996GADhqe3z5c&dib_tag=se&keywords=Diesel+Engine+Compression+Tester%2C+18+pcs+Cylinder+Pressure+Test+Tool+Kit%2C&qid=1764437873&sprefix=diesel+engine+compression+tester+18+pcs+cylinder+pressure+test+tool+kit+%2Caps%2C973&sr=8-17 Sorry about the length of the above links. Cant work out how to make them shorter Alasdair

I think your correct re centre bolt but from memory from reading an article in case I had to replace my sons when doing clutch I think theres a spring behind it which makes it quite difficult to replace when gearbox is in car as you have to compress the spring at the same time as replacing bolt. I may be wrong on this but someone on here will know. Meant to add 300k is impressive on a fabia even the 1.9tdi! Alasdair

Could very well be the pump or the connector or switch. Best option would be to get someone else to operate switch and check your getting power to the pump. Think its fitted to the screenwash tank at bottom. I replaced mine as it had started to leak and tank used to empty itself over night. From memory I think its behind the passenger side plastic wheel arch protector Alasdair

May need the heater flaps adjusted/calibrated. On my octavia its as follows Turn on the ignition, press and hold both the AC and Front Vent buttons (third ion from left?) until both lights start to flash then you'll hear the flaps calibrating and the lights will stop flashing after 10-20 seconds. Mine has climatronic control Alasdair

I replaced all the suspension bushes plus shocks and springs on my old MK2 and it made a huge difference. The bushes didnt look bad but the new ones stiffened everything up and made the car much more positive. Shocks werent leaking but were really poor once removed. I also went for xload tyres as I tend to carry a bit of weight which were a great improvement on the comfort style tyres that were fitted due to the stronger side walls. Not as smooth a ride but as said much more positive. Alasdair

Look carefully at how good winter/all season tyres are in the wet. Some are shocking. Sons got GT radial all season and plenty of grip in wet plus pretty good in snow/cold weather. I generally like to have the same tyres on each axle but have had mixed before with no problems on the rear. Would still match the front ones though. Alasdair

Unplug them and if your headlights fail/stop working then maybe a decent autoelectrician for help or change them back to standard. I am in the process of trying to remove an aftermarket imobiliser on a MK1 mazda Eunos/MX5. Absolute nightmare trying to work out how to remove it and reconnect original wiring plus the quality of work is shocking. Wires cut and just twisted together with minimal insulation and in some cases none. Alasdair

I agree unplug them and tape over ends just in case. If nothing stops working I would leave them alone. If for any reason something doesnt work then you may have to trace them back. It may be someone has lost a live feed and jumped the fuse box instead of finding the original fault. Have had smoke out of a few fuse boxes/burnt out wires over time due to idiots either increasing amps of a fuse 'cause the original keeps blowing' or they have no idea what their doing and are running low current devices of a high current circuit without inline protection Alasdair

My old seat altea locks and unlocks when driving. I read on the Seat forum its probably a fault in the door lock circuit board/microswitch. Could be a dry joint or bad cable. I never did get round to fixing it as it only happend when driving and not when parked and the car was used as for work (more like a skip/shed really). Not sure how to disable autolocking but I assume it would need VCDS. I never use cruise control simply because I really dont like it. Alasdair

Are you sure its from the seal and not the flexi section. Oil has a weird habit of defying gravity etc. If its from the flange then maybe some hylomar blue as well as the gasket. Have used it in the past when flange was pitted and not making decent seal. Alasdair