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Alasdair1

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Everything posted by Alasdair1

  1. Hi there wondering if anyone knows where to get a set of headlights for fabia mk1 2006 1.2htp cheaply. Ones fitted are very cloudy and reckon past using one of the polishing kits as they are now showing small cracks. MOT advise but reckon will fail next time and I doubt I can get replacement lenses as they seem glued on so looking for a cheap aftermarket set. Had a look on ebay but wary they may be just as bad. Found some on autodoc etc but for LHD cars. Any suggestioins welcome. Alasdair
  2. Reckon if the ring is a better fit and clear of sensor I would fit it. It must be there to stop dirt etc. Wonder why it warped in the first place. I would first suspect a bad wheel bearing as they can heat up if there on there way out but as its newish doubt it. Make sure its spinning freely anyway with no signs of movement or grumbling. It could be a binding brake. Had one that after a long trip the whole hub was very very hot. Have also read that some cheaper aftermarket abs sensors are slightly longer and can cause problems. Hopefully its a one of Alasdair
  3. My sons did the same but it was due to a build up of dirt behind 1 plastic shield other was missing. I assume a bearing had been replaced and they never bothered with a new one. I replaced sensors/bearings but couldnt get the plastic rings at time. I didnt bother fitting them its been fine for two years. Had to destroy old sensors to get them out as they were rusted solid. Alasdair
  4. Quick google and the ohms reading accross the two wires of the same colour in sensor should be 4-10 ohms aprox. If theres zero or very low 1 or 2 the sensor heater has failed. Think the above is correct. Alasdair
  5. I would put battery on charge first and get it fully charged. 12.3v is around 40-50% Check the strip fuses in engine bay near battery and check others again for secure connection. The strip fuses on my sons MK1 developed hairline cracks that were near impossible to see. Check as well vaccum hoses for damage etc including the brake servo pipe. His was split in two places at joins. If the above are ok then maybe o2 sensor. Think theres two but would check wiring and if ok change one after cat first. Not exactly sure how to test sensors if car wont start. Alasdair
  6. I fitted a heavy duty Tow Trust towbar on my old MK2. Cheaper than some of the other makes but excellent quality and fairly easy to fit. They have a dealer locator so there may be a fitter near you. https://tow-trust.co.uk/find-a-dealer Alasdair
  7. Check the wiring back from the crank/cam sensors including connectors for moisture/corosion. Think there should be 5v at sensors with ignition on. Read that near engine lifting eye and under battery tray are most common places or damage. Alasdair
  8. Check they coded/cloned the new ECU/BCM and check fuses/relays for wipers/indicators etc. As said get a VCDS full scan done. It may ping something up that explains the fault. Modern cars are a nightmare. I spent about two hours working out why my wipers werent working on a Seat altea and finally discovered they are disabled with bonnet open for some weird reason. Alasdair
  9. Looks better than new. Mine was the same although I admit I just oiled and moved it till everything was moving freely then added some copper grease as I had a tin handy. Nice tidy job Alasdair
  10. I meant the control unit in the door thats part of window motor. If its from a different car it may not be able to communicate with new BCM. I assume the BCM was coded to match ECU/clocks etc. Reckon a good scan with VCDS is in order. You could spend days trying to locate a fault. Alasdair
  11. Check gearbox oil level? and maybe recheck rear diff level as well and if you can haldex level. Were all four wheel bearings replaced? Alasdair
  12. Read that the door has its own module/window motor that comunicates with BCM. If its from an older /newer car then it may not be able to comunicate with BCM. If you have the old one maybe swap it back. Alasdair
  13. Had customer with VW not Skoda but theres did the same. Luckily they had left window down slightly for dog and we managed to fish their key out of car for them. In there case it was the battery in key that was failing so car assumed the key wasnt in it as it couldnt detect it. Spoke to them later on and new battery and it hasnt done it since. Alasdair
  14. Check around ignition switch and key fob reader. It could be imobilser. If its diesel mine starts then stops immediately. Petrol if I am correct sometimes wont crank or start at all and just make a click. Meant to add check theres no imobilser symbol on dash when attempting to start. May be a car symbol with key etc. Alasdair
  15. It might be worth checking/replacing relay for starter. Sorry not sure exactly which one but I believe its inside under dash somewhere or in engine bay fuse box. For some reason its difficult/impossibe to get a diagram of where and what each relay does. Someone on here will know the correct one and its location etc. Alasdair
  16. Not sure if its possible but have you tried a live wire to starter solanoid direct from battery. Touch it to terminal that ignition feeds. If it turns over the fault may be ignition related. If it doesnt then its either a bad solanoid or earth. Alasdair
  17. Good luck finding them. I would start with any near starter. Alasdair
  18. Maybe a new ignition switch. Did find this on here. It turns out its got 14. I think theres another to gearbox etc as well. Alasdair
  19. If it has only done 7k but is 3 year old then I would reckon even with longlife oil it should have been changed at 2 years max. If it was perhaps they didnt fill it correctly. I agree with Pete , top up to max an monitor it carefully. If it took a litre to reach min mark its been running with 3/4 of the correct volume of oil or less. If it hasnt been changed since new then I would get an oil an filter change done ASAP and take it from there. Not sure if the warranty will still be valid if it hasnt been serviced especially an oil change. Alasdair
  20. Could be linked to imobilser/ignition/steering angle sensor but would have thought car would start and you would have airbag warning and probably a few others etc. Check that all the connectors to ignition/steering wheel etc are connected properly as you may have dislodged something. Also check for blown fuses as well. Alasdair
  21. Sounds exactly like my old school garage (sadly retired). Used to pop in and they would put car on ramp and have a look. Very quick and exellent service. They even let me borrow a car when they couldnt get a part same day for no charge. (it was a 20 year old nissan micra but got me home). Alasdair
  22. I still do mine every 50k or 5years. Mine are old cars plus the length of interval that skoda group are stating I think is asking for trouble. Belt may be ok but with my diesels to expect a water pump and tensioner/idler pulley to last 130k is asking a lot. Have had one that the tensioner was failing and belt was badly worn down one side at 60k Wonder if its all vw group or just skoda. As you bought from skoda dealer but have had it serviced via non dealer it may cause problems. I am sure there is a lot of very small print involved. Still worth taking it up with skoda though. Good luck.
  23. That seems fair plus £60/hr is very good these days. Seems like a decent garage who now what they aare doing and also quick service too. Hard to find these days. Alasdair
  24. I know that feeling especially when you only have one car. Pressure on to get it right and as you say down to you if it doesnt. Only had to hire one car in the last 20 years when it went wrong and yes it was down to me. Alasdair
  25. Slave is possible and fairly easy to access. (was on the fabia and looks the same on the Mk2 1.9tdi. You have to remove battery/battery tray and I think for easier access the gearbox selector and cables etc. two bolts and it pulls out. Getting it back in again is tricky by yourself a you need to compress plunger spring and get bolts in at same time. Bleed nipple is on the slave. Plastic and I found it needed to be unscrewed a fair bit for bleeding. I used a pressure bleeding kit as I was by myself. As said £227 I think is fair plus lying under a car in this weather!! and if it goes wrong no car. Dont know what a dealer would charge you. Think my local one is over £100 per hour plus vat for labour alone. Skoda parts.com do a genuine skoda master and its around £140 Alasdair

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