Alasdair1

Hope so. Remember to check what bolts have to be replaced and not reused. If there very rusty then spray with penetrating oil etc and repeat over a few days. I bought a plumbers map gas torch with a small burner head to give them a bit of heat. Its more precise than the larger ones I also use a plumbers heat pad behind to protect paint/wiring/plastic Alasdair

Thanks so much Pete. Couldn't work out what serated meant but I get it now. 70nm plus 90degrees is what I need Didn't think it felt like 200nm plus 180 when I removed old one although it took a 6ft pipe to move it at first. 200nm plus 180 is really tight. Thanks again Alasdair

Not sure will be back in a minute

Hi sorry posted yesterday but no replies. Need the torque and angle tightnening for front hub to drive shaft bolt. Its 12 sided. Car is up on stands and need it for today as we are away tonight. Had to do bearing yesterday as it got really bad over a couple of days. Its a 12 plate estate 1.6tdi Wife not going to be happy if I don't get it back together. Have found 70nm plus 90degrees but confused re different bolts in Haynes Alasdair

Try https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car.html You can search by car or PCD etc and it will give you a list of different car wheels.with same PCD and centre bore plus list offset. You can get centre bore rings if the bore is too large. Just watch the weight/size of original car for wheel loading. Alasdair

Give it a blast of brake cleaner and let dry then leave for a while. It may be leaking as it leaves the reservoir to clutch. I've had a few leak there.

Might be someone close to you with vcds or similar? If the light bright aand goes off and then on its probably not the dash. Alasdair

Be careful with connectors. I would disconnect battery first and leave for a while. Its weird that there are no error codes unless your reader isn't compatible with airbag system for some reason. If the light is on then why no code? Is the light dim or the same brightness as everying else as there have been a good few falts on here that have been down to poor/loose connector at rear of dash causing random lights to come on but not full brightness. I had DPF,Airbag plus foglights and a few others.

Hi there, Just replaced a front bearing and bit confused re torque setting. Haynes manual describes different bolts and different settings. I assume the 1.6tdi is the same as the 1.9tdi as haynes don't cover that engine. Replaced it with an APEC bearing with black multi point bolt. Anyone know the torque setting. I have come up with 200nm plus either 90 or 180 degrees or another setting cant remember but left haynes manual in shed. Bolt looks like this and the one on the car was rediculously tight. Took a 6 foot tube to move it. Also the bolt I have doesnt seem to have threadlock so I am assuming I should I add a little but if its as tight as the original doubt I would need it Alasdair The other was 70nm plus 90 degrees which is a lot less than 200nm plus 180 degrees. Hence the confusion. I assume it depends on the bolt but its a huge difference in torque

Hi there just snapped another ABS sensor trying to remove it to change bearing. Is there a trick to removing them or are they generally rusted in. I bought a new one as its happened twice before but thought I'd ask for future reference. Alasdair

Years ago did an old Fiat. Fairly simple but the head was off for a gasket change. My local garage managed to change valve springs a few years ago by feeding 6mm rope through spark plug hole and then turning engine over slowly so the rope held the valves while they compressed them. Bit tricky but saved taking head off Alasdair

Yep its gone from 0C to 12C today so no annoying chime. Pretty wet but at least its warmer. Roads are really greasy especially at roundabouts. Quite happy though as we got to go to Dunblane on Saturday. Last year we got stuck in snow. Alasdair

I always do mine at 60,000 or 5 years whatever comes sooner. I have always used Gates belts/kits and have had no problems. In the past I have come accross genuine vw belts which seem perfect at 60,000 but the tensioner has started to fail or waterpump starting to leak. 125K is very long for a belt change and unless you were doing huge mileage a year I assume the car would be well out of waranty if it snapped at say 100k. Personally I would get it changed for peace of mind. Last one I did was a 1.9tdi. Got full gates kit from autodoc for around £100 Alasdair

Some of the bolts used in subframes/suspension are stretch bolts and have to be replaced when changing. Not sure of the torque but I assume they are skoda only parts from dealer etc so perhaps make a list and ask them for torque values when purchasing them. I did read if removing sub frame it would require an alignment before tighening bolts. Main probem will be removing old bolts. I would be spraying wd40 or penetratin oil for a good few weeks before atempting removal. If any bolts are inside the chassis try and get some wd40 into them. I had problems before but drilled a small 3mm hole from above/side so I could spray wd40 onto encapsulated bolts. Last thing you want is a snapped bolt or worse the internal fixed nut to start turning. A good rule is 1/3 turn to loosen lubricate and 1/4 back. Takes a while but you generally dont snap things. Do not use an impact driver unless absolutely nessesary. Quickest way to strip/snap things as well as crossthreading. Alasdair

Just ran into town and back. Car upto temp and oil level about 3/4 up mark. First change since I got the car and hasn't lost or used any oil before this oil change Old oil was I reckon well past it. Just wondering if the owner before didn't change oil and just reset service light. Supposed to have a service history but??? No signs of leaks apart from a slight weep around rear of sump. Was just a bit confused why it took a bit more than I expected. Just as well I bought a 5 litre. Many thanks Alasdair

Hi there quick question. How much oil does a 12plate 1.6tdi take. Was told 4.3litres at motorfactors but have just changed it and it took nearly 5 litres. I am asuming it could be that 4.3 doesn't include filter. Checked oil on level surface and its middle of the dipstick so reckon its ok. Did find it particularly annoying that you have to remove some electrics and I a stainless steel pipe to get the filter out. My 1.2 fabia and 1.9tdi Octavia are a lot simpler and easy to get to filter. Why do they design cars this way? Alasdair

Ah now I get it Pete. Loud and nasty is a good description. Didn't think about indicators. Will have a word with my son. Chances are his music is too loud to hear the indicators. Might try a bit of tape anyway. Alasdair

Had a quick look and it looks like the reservoir on a MK3 has a sensor not a float switch. The ones I have seen online don't seem to have wires from the cap. If the sensor has failed it would explain why no warning lights. Alasdair

I reckon the sensor in the reservoir has stuck or failed or bad wiring/shorted out. Try removing it completely and see if the light comes on when hanging lose out of the reservoir. Mine on my MK2 puts light on plus alarm when about 1/4 full. A garage should be able to track down a leak easier as they can lift car for proper inspection. Remember to top up with fluid before driving anywhere. If the clutch isn't working you could try bleeding it to see if it will come back to get you to garage. At least you can read your reservoir. Mine are so opaque you can't see the level easily. Alasdair

Cheers pete, If you want a loud one get it from an 06 fabia mk1. Its at least twice the volume of my Ocatvias. Will have a look and see what I can do. Every time it goes off your scanning for major warning lights on dash. My Octavias seem to have two settings. Low for temp/seatbelts/lights and loud for brakes/coolant etc. which makes more sense. Alasdair

The MK1 is pretty loud and at the moment going of a lot as the weather is between 3-5C It also goes continuosly if you leave lights on and open door. Don't have any other modern gadgets on this one as its an 06 MK1. Might try and find out where the sounder is and see if I can cover it in tape or something similar to muffle it. The ones in my Octavias and Seat are much less harsh for air temp and lights seatbelts etc but are much louder at certain times for low coolant,brakes etc which makes more sense. Alasdair

Dont suppose anyone on here could help. Sons Mk1 fabia has the loudest warning chime. e.g It scares the **** out of you when you hit 4Cetc. You automaticaly think something major has gone wrong again. Any way of turning it down/replacing it or stopping the audible low temp warning. Alasdair

Might be worth checking brake lines/calipers/flexi etc and the brake master. if its that low I am surprised light didn't come on as well. I would assume the level for the clutch is slightly higher than the brakes( it is on my MK2) but reckon it wouldn't go that low if its just the clutch leaking. You may have pulled air into clutch line? You could also be losing fluid through braking. Had leak in rear flexi but brakes worked fine till light came on Alasdair

Are the wheels pointing forward or at an angle. If they are pointing left or right turn the wheel with a good mount of force in the direction the wheels are pointing and try turn the key. Also rock car forward and backwards plus as said raise drop wheel. They can jam if the steering lock is applied at full lock. Hope you get it sorted. When mine failed it was on an old Merc van. Main problem was getting the ignition barrel out and old lock off. The steel locking pin that jammed was so hard a hacksaw wouldnt look at it.

Think it connects through the block connectors. Found this on here but not sure if its the same as yours. Aux earth and L plus R highlihted in green