Alasdair1

I reckon the sensor in the reservoir has stuck or failed or bad wiring/shorted out. Try removing it completely and see if the light comes on when hanging lose out of the reservoir. Mine on my MK2 puts light on plus alarm when about 1/4 full. A garage should be able to track down a leak easier as they can lift car for proper inspection. Remember to top up with fluid before driving anywhere. If the clutch isn't working you could try bleeding it to see if it will come back to get you to garage. At least you can read your reservoir. Mine are so opaque you can't see the level easily. Alasdair

Cheers pete, If you want a loud one get it from an 06 fabia mk1. Its at least twice the volume of my Ocatvias. Will have a look and see what I can do. Every time it goes off your scanning for major warning lights on dash. My Octavias seem to have two settings. Low for temp/seatbelts/lights and loud for brakes/coolant etc. which makes more sense. Alasdair

The MK1 is pretty loud and at the moment going of a lot as the weather is between 3-5C It also goes continuosly if you leave lights on and open door. Don't have any other modern gadgets on this one as its an 06 MK1. Might try and find out where the sounder is and see if I can cover it in tape or something similar to muffle it. The ones in my Octavias and Seat are much less harsh for air temp and lights seatbelts etc but are much louder at certain times for low coolant,brakes etc which makes more sense. Alasdair

Dont suppose anyone on here could help. Sons Mk1 fabia has the loudest warning chime. e.g It scares the **** out of you when you hit 4Cetc. You automaticaly think something major has gone wrong again. Any way of turning it down/replacing it or stopping the audible low temp warning. Alasdair

Might be worth checking brake lines/calipers/flexi etc and the brake master. if its that low I am surprised light didn't come on as well. I would assume the level for the clutch is slightly higher than the brakes( it is on my MK2) but reckon it wouldn't go that low if its just the clutch leaking. You may have pulled air into clutch line? You could also be losing fluid through braking. Had leak in rear flexi but brakes worked fine till light came on Alasdair

Are the wheels pointing forward or at an angle. If they are pointing left or right turn the wheel with a good mount of force in the direction the wheels are pointing and try turn the key. Also rock car forward and backwards plus as said raise drop wheel. They can jam if the steering lock is applied at full lock. Hope you get it sorted. When mine failed it was on an old Merc van. Main problem was getting the ignition barrel out and old lock off. The steel locking pin that jammed was so hard a hacksaw wouldnt look at it.

Think it connects through the block connectors. Found this on here but not sure if its the same as yours. Aux earth and L plus R highlihted in green

If there really rusty chances are the nuts won't come off very easy without damage. I normally end up cutting them off. A new febi track rod end complete is around £7-00 a side. Why do you need to remove them if they seem fine? Alasdair

Mine failed on a MK2. Master cylinder leaked and pedal would randomly stick down as yours does. Lift it up and it would be fine for a while. Clutch eventually failed due to low fluid. The fluid was collecting on the undertray so didn't notice until it got winched onto recovery truck. If replacing master theres a small rubber grommet on the MK2 that is difficult to notice and usually sticks in the old one. You need it for the master to seal properly. Alasdair

Could be steering lock thats stuck or the ignition switch has failed. Try a small spray of wd40 into ignition? It may have to be taken apart to see whats gone wrong. Had a steering lock jam on in the past. The ignition switch if I remember correctly has to be in a certain position to remove barrel. Then steering wheel removal etc to get to lock. You will have to chisel old lock off if its failed. Try lowering and raising steering wheel while trying to turn wheel left and right to see if it will free itself. If it frees up I would still try and find out what went wrong. Alasdair

Bushes look a bit past it but if theres no movement should be ok. About as good as mine and they got through an MOT The clunk is when you turn wheel when stopped so doubt it would be them. Best option is to get someone else to listen around car to pinpoint area its coming from. Check its not a top mount as well. Have had a few that click and clunk especially at low speeds/parking Alasdair

Have been looking for years and any site that asks for VIN mine isn't reckognised or the site is infected with some virus etc. Was using 7zap but they now limit the number of times you can look up and its not VIN based. I use Febi parts finder as well as a few other aftermarket ie Apec, schaeffler etc but did find this site recently. https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda/ Havent tried via VIN but seems to be fairly good by entering car details. Just watch for LHD and RHD especially if your ordering from autodoc if your in the UK. Certain parts are LHD/RHD specific I also use http://www.kakapart.com/ for cross ref. So far its been pretty good when it works. Site quite often has problems. It will list aftermarket parts etc in order of compatibilty if an equivalent skoda part is available . Key in the skoda/vw part number and you get a list of alternatives plus I tend to double check everything it tells me before ordering by visting febi,valeo,fram etc sites Alasdair

I thought my sons Fabia we bought was low mileage 06 plate and 60k. 30k in 23 years is really low. Check the drain channels under the front wiper panel/scuttle. They I think can be got to through the wheel arch under plastic liner as well. They can become blocked and you get moisture in the front of car. If theres dampness in car then it may well be corosion/tarnishing at the rear of cluster or dry solder joints. As for the horn not sure. Maybe it will come back once the cluster is working ok. It may be the contacts in the steering wheel that have stopped working due to lack of use. My folks was like that as they never used the horn. As said remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster as it can imobilise the car if removed otherwise.

Just posted a reply on here under your other post. Alasdair

Had similar with DPF light and Engine management and front fog dash lights on all the time.(slightly dimmer than others) on my Ocatvia MK2. I removed cluster and cleaned conector then reconnected and its perfect. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Reckon the rear cluster connector had become loose or not making proper contact. Might be worth puting 12v accross horn to see if its actually working? Do you have any airbag warning lights on? The horn can stop working when the spiral cable in steering wheel starts failing as well as airbag lights staying on Alasdair

Check MOT history and then look at car again to check failures/advises have been replaced not just tidied or covered up. When looking for a fabia for my son it was shocking the number of cars that had failed MOT in the past with bald tyres/canvas showing ,rust problems worn suspension etc you name it. It can give you an idea if the car has been looked after or not. Theres a lot that are bought cheap ran or thrashed for a while and tidied up with years MOT for selling on. Some of the ones we looked at with years MOT reckon wouldn't last 3-4 months without major work. My old garage used to say a car with an MOT doesn't mean much and can be just slightly better than Scrap. Alasdair

Mine does the same but its the motor thats seizing. Check the earths and contacts

Not sure. I used a bypass kit on mine. It uses one brake but L and R side lights May not be the unit but if you have one fitted check the fuse for the supply. You could always disconnect unit to see if its causing the fault but as said could also be poor earths or dirty contacts for bulbs. On a random occasion I have had bulbs still work but still puts on bulb failure light. They were cheap bulbs I picked up somewwhere. I assume a bad connection or poor earth would change the resistance/current and trigger blown bulb warning. Alasdair

Do you have a towbar fitted? Mine came on and it was to do with the bypass relay wiring unit. I also have the same problem with the high level brake light as its an aftermarket one and must be slightly different wattage. It could also be a bad contact. Enough to light bulb but confusing the system. Check theres no corosion etc. Alasdair

Its typical when that happens. My Seat imobilser was stuck on so ended up buying a Skoda octavia to keep me going. Its a very long story!!. The Seat was sitting with battery disconected over December a few years back. Start of Jan I thouht I try again charged baattery and perfect. No codes nothing. Started first time. Wonder if the ECU had a blip and needed to be reset, probably never know but Ive never used the spare key again and its never happened again. If you disconnected the ECU and reconnected it it may haave reset it. Hope it doesnt give you any more bother. Alasdair

Had the same in a Seat 1.9tdi. The imobilizer came on after using the spare fob. The transponder chip in the spare key had failed at some point before I bought the car and didn't realise. My problem was the imobilser stuck on and the other key wouldn't work either. Eventualy after leaving the car battery disconnected for a couple of weeks it started working again after I touched battery cables together when disconnected. You could try another fob if you have one. Make sure you use a fob with the buttons as not sure if the other small key without the buttons has a transponder in it? It could also be the transponder reading coil in the ignition switch that has failed and isn't reading the key. The only other option would be to disable the imobilser in the ECU but you would need VCDS and know how to do it. Not the info thats generally put up on line. If the transponder chip has failed then a car locksmith may be able to retrieve the code and reprogram it for you. Also make sure the car battery is good and fully charged. Alasdair

Sorry can't help. Someone on here may have access to etka or similar or you could try the following. It might help. Look under engine group parts and scroll down to engine cooling diagrams. Not sure which engine you have and also make sure its for a RHD vehicle. https://webautocats.com/etka/skoda/ Alasdair

I normally split the jubilee clip and reassemble around rubber pipe first ,remove spring clamp and slide down over plastic y then replace with jubilee to save losing coolant. You may have enough length on plastic y to use both? If not in my case just left the spring clamp on the plastic pipe. Hope that makes sense Alasdair

I have had the odd spring clamp leak. Try and removing it and replacing with a decent stainless jubilee clip and see if it seals it. The clamps are normally pretty good but if they have been removed and not put back exactly in the same position they can start to leak. Check the condition of the end of the hose as well. Sometimes if its damaged/split you have enough length etc to cut and reuse hose.

Usually quite a few MK1 on ebay breaking for spares or scrapyard. Not so many with roof rails but worth a look. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/scraplandukrecycledautospares seem to have quite a few skoda. Alasdair