Alasdair1

Not sure but had the old tyres worn fairly evenly especially rear. My old Octy rear tyres had loads of wear on the inside due to rear suspension arm bushes worn and rear alignment was out. Sounded a bit like a drone/wheel bearing. Check the swing arms at rear that the springs sit in. There are concentric bolts for alignment but if the bushes fail the alignment can cause tyre wear/noise. It was the upper bushing on mine that had gone. Alasdair

If the bearings have no play and feel smooth it could be the CV joint thats wearing out. Had one that used to click/clunk at full lock. It in my case was outer one. Didnt seem to be any play but noise disappeared once I replaced it. Alasdair

Not sure on yours but there are pre and post cat lamda. If thats the correct one then unclip and remove. Alasdair

Not sure re sidelight but the black wheels look wicked and pretty mean and I reckon look miles better than the silver. If my car was black I would go with them. Alasdair

Not sure but perhaps a temp bolt would be a good idea. Personally I wouldnt as not sure if it would cause any further damage or put strain on other items plus if anything happened on road I reckon you would be liable for something and if your insurance found out I doubt they would be very happy. You might get away with threaded rod and a couple of nylocks. Alasdair

Probably cheapest option would be breakers/scrapyard. May be a part number on airbag or on reverse of plastic cover. One on ebay but not sure if your uk based or not. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315111292946?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=315111292946&targetid=2404040183267&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007345&poi=&campaignid=21697363421&mkgroupid=171407487490&rlsatarget=aud-1657461044788:pla-2404040183267&abcId=10027088&merchantid=113153458&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21697363421&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1fuR6MxZ_r0ugxgk_MN9yO7_&gclid=CjwKCAjw1dLDBhBoEiwAQNRiQc4kCt3bTDxSM7EOo7dvEky3chVItGZrQlGgopPOtgDgsx2xy2BldBoCAYYQAvD_BwE Alasdair

Pulled this from wheelfitment website Skoda octavia mk1 1997 - 2005 https://www.wheelfitment.eu/car/Skoda/Octavia%20(1997%20-%202005).html Wouldnt let me copy data sorry Alasdair

I think the best optioin would be to get it scanned with VCDS. Could be something simple but hopefully will have stored some codes to point you in the right direction. Check the obvious like loose battery terminals and the strip fuses in front of battery and loose connectors/wiring in general . Maybe a short when engine vibrations are high. Look very carefuly at the fuses as they can crack but arent noticeable. Alasdair

Ah well thats that idea no good as you replaced map sensor.Might be fuel related? Wonder if the fuel pump/wiring or relay is failing when getting warm and only providing enough for idle? The rate your going you will soon run out of things to check.

Not sure but normally in air intake pipe or near filter. It can also be part of MAF but as you don't have one I reckon it will be between airfilter and throttle body. Not sure what it may look like or location sorry. Alasdair Picture is from autodoc but may be sensor for temperature/low temp warning.

Had another thought. Could be air intake temp sensor if one is fitted. It may be sending wrong info when upto temp. Alasdair

Might be worth seeing if anyone has vcds to scan car. It should work on an 06 plate and it may ping up stored codes that your scanner has missed or at least hopefully point you in the general direction. Alasdair

I doubt the cat . if it was blocked the car wouldn't run well from cold and I assume symptoms would be there from start. Just wondering if the throttle body is sticking when it gets warm. Or as it occurs when upto temp it may be temperature related like a bad earth or connector/shorted wire thats faiing when warm. Not sure what scanner was used but maybe a different one will ping something up? Not sure if VCDS works on the mk1? Alasdair

Check the actuator is actually moving or not sticking at a certain point. My 1.9tdi used to randomly go into limp mode same error. Made a slight blow off sound just before the EML light came on turbo sounded a bit like a siren in the distnace. I sprayed the acctuaator with penetrating oil and manually moved it for ages until it felt smooth again. Problem solved so far. It could also be a failed actuator. I would stick with the original turbo as I reckon a larger one will cause other problems and perhaps the ECU won't like it. Alasdair

I used to use an old school independant garage with probably a combined knowledge of well over 100 years of diagnosis and fault finding. Alas they have closed due to retirement and also cars getting too electronic/computerised for them to work on without spending a fortune on special diagnosis tools. I find that these days if the computer doesnt tell the mechanic whats wrong they havent a clue where to look and its trial and error. You may well be correct re oil being over filled or perhaps a breather if it has one is blocked. Hope they get to the bottom of it soon and you don't get charged for the work they did that wasn't needing done. Alasdair

Long shot but it might be the evap valve on the left in your picture. You say it happens after a mile or two. Wonder if its a bad connection thats failing when warm. Alasdair

Does the car have a mass air flow sensor? Meant to add although probably not but check air filter as well. Alasdair

Try flushing it from engine compartment to see if there is water flowing through it. I used a garden hose. I was changing coolant anyway so put in a flushing compound for a week or so before hand. Alasdair

If it has jumped slightly I would not be starting or driving it until timing/belts etc have been checked. One or two teeth shouldnt cause any real damage short term but if its jumped it could do it again and then it could be catastrophic. Hopefully its something simpler. Alasdair

Maybe timing has jumped a tooth or two. When was the belt/chain changed last. If it has it would explain lack of power under load. Not sure if the 1.4 is a belt or chain. Alasdair

I reckon it has to be something to do with master cylinder if all brakes are the same. Had a similar problem with one brake due to a colapsed flexi but all four the chances are nil. Alasdair

Have you towed before. Years ago I had similar probs with an auto volvo 940. It was pretty hot weather and lost drive. Turned out I needed a seperate transmission cooler for towing. Not sue re Skoda but if it was very warm then it may have cooked/boiled the gearbox fluid. Alasdair

If its under waranty I would definitley take it back to dealer. Dont touch anything yourself or let another garage (even AA/RAC) to touch it as the dealer may well come back and say the waranty is invalidated. If they don't fix it then I reckon you have grounds to return car for a refund. Alasdair

If it does it when hot it may be a bad earth or coroded connector. As it gets hot things expand and can cause bad connections. Check for damaged wiring as well. Might be worth checking the strip fuses in front of battery as well. They are prone to cracking but almost impossible to see. As it heats up the crack opens and breaks circuit. Have had this a few times in my Octavia and my sons Fabia. In my case it was ABS fault. Sounds as though its going into limp mode. Alasdair

Not sure but in two cases voltage is too low. Whats the condition of your battery? A failing one or low voltage can cause random probems. Alasdair