Alasdair1

Hi there, found the link. Amazon £12.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XJN891M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Mine as said only has front powered windows. Alasdair

Does sound like a wiring issue but It could also be the switch in the door handle. They can fail over time as they get water into them if the window is left open. I bought a new one fairly cheap off ebay/amazon as mine had started to come apart when I removed it and I assumed it was faulty. Think it was around £12-00. Mine only has powered front windows. Turned out to be the drivers motor/controler on mine but reckon the switch was on its way out as well. Alasdair

Listened to it again and It could be the auxiliary water pump. It I think turns on when car is cold etc. to divert heat to cabin. If its failing or perhps an airlock at pump? it could make that sound. Does it do it when engine is upto temp and then restarted?. As its electric I assume its possibe to unplug it and see if the sound goes. Alasdair

Had similar sound on my old 1.9tdi and it was a heat shield that had come loose and was sitting on exhaust. Try the trick with a length of hose. One end to your ear and move the other around the engine to narrow it down. Gets louder the closer you get.

I think its under the inlet manifold on these engines. Found this online https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVezi6-TC9M Doesn't look the easiest job Alasdair

I am having the same problem with my 1.6tdi. No feeling in steeringwheel, Feel it throuh the seat and as said disappears when you stop accelerating. Have checked front suspension aand drive shafts and they are fine. Only one I havent managed to check is the bush in the subframe. Reckon its coming from rear on mine but can't work out where. First thought of wheel imbalance but nothing through steering wheel. Will be checking rear bushes etc this week. Only other time similar feeling happened on another car was due to a mishapen tyre on rear. No bulges but tyre seemed to have twisted slightly. Michelin tyre only 1/4 worn which the tyre service said they get them like that a fair bit especially when getting older. Will post if I come up with anything. Being trying to track it down for months.

Had a problem years ago with power steering pipes that had coroded and were impossible to get for toyota lucida. I finally got a local hydraulic hose company to make me flexi hoses instead of the steel/flexi that was on the car. Tried measuring old pipe but eventually I got them to fit one end and then give me the slightly overlength hose. Ran it through the car and marked where I wanted the other end to finish. Luckily I had fairly straight runs and enough space to put a slow bend in hose for corners. Has been fine for years and still have car. Also repaired the 8mm steel oil cooler pipes on same car using 8mm copper microbore central heating pipe and compression connectors. Still there and still ok It was lower pressure than steering though. I cant think of a reason to have steel pipe between flexis apart from the cost. Alasdair

I think febi do power steering hoses and pipes. Not sure about VRS but folks got them a few years back for there 1.9tdi. Part number I came up with is FEBI 186139 Alasdair

I had similar problem on my sons MK1. Think air lock was at heater matrix as no heat. I kept squeezing top rad hoze until fluid in tank dropped. Topped up and repeated. Took a while to get air out. Not sure if it will work on MK3 Alasdair

The parasitic drain could be similar to a fault I had on old Volvo. The backup battery for alarm siren failed/shorted and was taking charge all the time. Car battery would go flat over a few days if car wasn't being used. i tracked the drain/wiring down to the clock on dash but then discovered it also supplied the rechargeable battery pack in the siren. Not sure on the Skoda but it might be worth checking as mine eventually started heating up and smoking. I just removed siren etc as being an old car didn't see need for alarm. Alasdair

If its like mine on the 1.9tdi then its one piece from cat to tail. Has yours been joined and a different rear box been fitted? Alasdair

Can't see on either of mine as they bend downwards at tips. 1.9tdi and 1.6tdi. Maybe its a valve of sorts that opens under pressure. Never seen one like that before. Give it a light push with a stick to see if its loose? Just read that the MK3 tdi vrs has a fake aand the MK3 TSI has twin? Not sure re MK2 Maybe at some point the wrong back box has been fitted? Alasdair

When my sons windows failed they just stopped. No jittering etc, Prior to them failing completely they would randomly just not work then start again if you kept pressing button. As just mentioned check the wiring first. It does sound like a broken wire. Does it happen to both front windows? If its just the drivers side then it could be the switch? Alasdair

Unusual to see an NGK fail like that. Champion and others YES. I would get another set and monitor it. Chances are it won't happen again. Hopefully its just the plug and not the coil pack etc. You could always take it back to where you got the plugs or contact NGK they might send you some for free? Alasdair

May be two seperate problems. Failed indicator stalk/switch and failing windows controller/motor in drivers door. The door motor is repairable if it the same fault as my sons. He has the same model of Fabia. Alasdair

Wonder if the belt snaps or the waterpump fails etc will Skoda repair or give you a new engine if it happens before 180,000 or 15 years?? Reckon you might have trouble claiming that from them. Still do mine 60,000 or 5 years. Do it myself so costs less than 0.5p per mile. Alasdair

Had a word with an old mechanic friend and he always used ATF and acetone mix 50/50. Said to drain oil first and let mix drain through pistons and out of oil drain. Do a few times then flush engine and refill with new oil. Not sure if its suitable for newer engines. He is very old school diesel mechanic. He said he always did it with engine warm. Alasdair

Sorry didn't realise where you were. Alasdair

Thats a fair mileage and if the clutch hasn't been changed in a while the 200HP might shorten what life it has left. I have a mate who took his to 230hp on a high mileage one just to see what it was like and ended up with new DMF and clutch quite quickly plus he went through front tyres like nobodys business. He demapped it back to sstock after wards.

I have seen it on Amazon if its the same stuff. Alasdair

They seem to be missing on all my cars that I changed bearings on. I assume they have either disintegrated or not been replaced. I didn't replace them as I didn't know they were there. Are they needed?? The drive shaft on the left looks sturdier/heavier. Difficult to tell if the length and diameters are the same. It might be my imagination or eyesight but the left one looks just slightly longer.

Sons got an 06 plate MK1 which was terrible but polished lenses and upgraded bulbs and its not too bad now.

Not sure. The glass ball type are like my Ocatvia. One is probably pre facelift and the other post or perhaps VRS The headlights arent that brilliant but I use Phillips extreme vision 150% brighter bulbs and they have made a big difference. Not sure if there is an HID option. I have halogen in all my cars and quite happy as the price of HID is a lot more.#

Hi there have a 1.6tdi CAYC octavia and it had a couple of problems. 1. it took ages to reach 90C and tended to drop quickly when stopped for a short time and then take ages to get up to temp again. Rad fan would come on but only once engine was switched off even after a short journey with temp showing only 60C 2. It tended to rev high for a good while untill temp hit 90C which it would only reach on a longish run. Revs were sitting at 1000-1200rpm until 90c then drop to about 950rpm I changed oil plus filter and had a 200mile trip and now it warms up quickly and the high revs have disapeared. I only changed oil and filter and reset the service warning. Is this pure coincidence or is there something I am missing?? Not complaining but its puzzling me. I also changed a drop link,bearing and a couple of ball joints which shouldn't affect anything Anyone come accross this or should I just be grateful its cured itself On a sepearate issue who designed an engine that you have to remove electrics and stainless pipe so the oil filter will come out?? Its bad enough that they dont have a flap in the undertray for draining oil. Thats progress for you?? Alasdair

If the oil is the correct grade Mine is 5w30 507.00 it should be fine. Thicker oil isn't a good idea at all. If the only thing that was replaced was the injector then I reckon pretty sure it has something to do with it if there was no noise before it failed. I have a couple of bad glowplugs on mine but engine is only lumpy for 10-15secs then fine. It may need VCDS to correctly code rather than a generic scanner but I am not sure. Another long shot would be a break/fault in wiring loom or connector thats only causing fault when cold? There should be a calibration value on the side of the injector that has to be inputed into car to stop over/under fueling. I would ask him if he actually inputed the value or just told the ecu it had a new injector or just cleared codes Alasdair