Alasdair1

Could be a coroded earth. Might be worth getting it scanned for fault codes to see if there are any stored. It could also be a relay thats failing or fuses that are loose or coroded Alasdair

If they wont turn have you tried spraying WD40 or similar into lock. They have a habit of seizing due to lack of use as most of the time they are fob operated. Spray and leave for a while and repeat. Another tip is to tap key carefully when in lock. Sometimes the key doesnt go all the way in and won't turn. If that doesnt work then you will probably have to go to a dealer as I assume they will be skoda only parts. They should be able to order them from VIN or perhaps reg. Alasdair

I taped the servo hose up on a temp measure and the EML light hasn't come on again since then. His pinged up codes for MAF and EVAP system and another I cant remember but so far it turned out to be servo hose.

I would check vaccum lines first to see if there are any splits or visible damage. Check the brake servo hose as well. My sons 1.2 pinged up EML and it was due to it being split and losing vaccum.

Try charging battery or replace it if its past it. I found on my Octavia that weird electronic symptoms/faults were happening due to the battery being past it and low in volts. It might cure the problem. Alasdair

I would be very sceptical of no1 as well. I would have thought that if it needs dismantling and retorquing something must have moved or worn which I assume is loose bolts or not perhaps assembled correctly in the first place or probably a known fault that should be recalled? It would also need the sub frame aligned etc. No2 may be correct but you would have thought a replacement u joint would be available but knowing modern cars probably not. No3 depends if its engine oil or gearbox oil or other. If its engine oiliit should be fairly easy to track down. If gearbox oil I wonder if the seals have gone at the inner cv joint/gearbox and its being thrown via the drive shaft. The fact that they don't think its the CV joint? If Iwas spending £460 or £1100 I would want to know is it or isnt it for definite. Previously you mentioned top mounts had been replaced. On my MK2 they have a specific direction of fitting marked with arrows. They look symetrical but there must be a reason for it. Wonder if one has been fitted in the wrong position? There are three bolts that would line up whichever way its fitted but it could be 120 degrees out? Alasdair

Many thanks. Thats what I had read but didnt think/couldnt remember its an insert. I kept coming up with complete bushing. Will have a look Alasdair

Its annoying but as we are only doing fairly short runs its not too much of a problem. Once your up to speed its not really noticeable. Will have another look and check shafts etc, Last time I checked there was as said no noticeable play and no adverse clunks etc. May have to bite the bullet and put it into a garage for diagnosis or leave it and hope it gets bad enough to work out whats wrong. Alasdair

Hi there I reckon I may need to change the bushes that the dogbone gearbox/engine bracket use in the subframe.. Is there an easy way to do it or do I have to drop subframe to remove old bushes and press new ones in. Read somewhere about a polybush replacement/conversion but that may have been for a fabia. Alasdair

Could be top mount or binding caliper on front. Check the rears as well. My old octavia was bad for rear calipers seizing. Mainly handbrake mechanism not releasing properly and pads getting stuck in sliders. I would also swap wheels on front left to right and see if it pulls the other way. Make sure tyres are not single direction. Alasdair

Front drive shafts seem solid with no noticeable play in cv joints and no noises etc but could be out of balance slightly as you said. How to check I havent a clue. Will have a good look to see if I can see any damage or balance weight if they have one is missing. Alasdair

Dont think so. Car runs and pulls great apart from the wobble. No fault codes and emissions were spot on last week for MOT. Exhaust is clean and not sooty and 60mpg on decent runs. Alasdair

Hi there very long story cut short. Octavia 1.6tdi 12 plate which you feel a distinct wobble when accelerating which disapears when you lift off the pedal. Tried a while ago on here but still can't find out why. Its felt through the car/seat and not the steering wheel. Just passed an MOT with no advisories. New tyres on front plus balanced and checked. Rear tyres good with no out of roundness or obvious defects and look fine with 3/4tread All bushes/ball joints good front and rear with no obvious play which I assume MOT would have picked up. MOT garage has the vibrating ramp to check. Worse at around 40mph. Weird thing is its worse when car is cold and improves when warm. (could this be shock absorber related?) and randomly disapears completly. Seems worse when accelerating into corners but difficult to tell. No rattle from DMF etc No fault codes either plus car is going great pulls well and good MPG apart from wobble. Engine mounts look good Cars done 110k Drive shafts are solid with no play and no obvious damage plus no noise from CV joints Rear discs and pads brand new plus front fairly recent. Any help very welcome as its stumped me including a few reputable garages. Advice was to leave it till it gets worse and hopefully become more obvious but thats been 9 months now. Have I missed something obvious? Alasdair

Have had similar problems in past. It doesn't take much so the bolt won't catch. Try some pressure on bolt and turn anticlockwise until you feel the threads click. This helps the threads line up ready to start and also helps stop cross threading then with same pressure turn bolt clockwise. Have in past used a slightly smaller diameter rod to line up first but careful not to damage threads. Alasdair

I think they should as they are only 6mm taller. www.Wheelfitment.eu lists all tyre sizes possible including PCD etc but 225/40/18 is listed. Another useful site is https://tiresize.com/comparison it gives you the difference in size mph etc Offset is I think 47 so 45 is pretty close PCD is 5x112 and centre bore is 57.1 Alasdair

Have you the blutooth unit under the drivers/passenger seat? It depends on the cars spec if its factory fitted. The bluetooth I believe still shows up when its not there. I am not sure but I read it can be accessed via maxidot display?

Had similar problems. Leaking at valve. I got the tyre service to rremove tyres and tidied up valve hole and used a black sealant which has been brilliant. Been two years now and no probs. Sealant is rubber like and does a great job. Pic of what I used. Its also excellent if the rims are a bit coroded.

Was going to do my old 08 plate but gave up as the bolts were solid and didn't want to risk snapping them or breaking anything internal. Been trying to spray with releasant but difficult to get to. Not sure if once removed it needs realigned? I was going to mark up the original position and try and replace the same. I ended up replacing arms and a few bushes and waxoiled the rest. You will need the concentric bolts that adjust the rear camber and will have to get a 4 wheel alignment. I used FEBI and got the correct parts via FEBI parts finder. Alasdair

I agree get it scanned for codes. Theres a lot of things that can put a car into limp mode from a bad plug to something more sinister like jumped timing. You could be there for days replacing parts etc that are perfectly fine until you find whats wrong. Hopefully its something simple. Alasdair

Had imobilser problems on an old seat with dodgy key/broken transponder chip. It was diesel so started then stopped and displayed safe? Thing got stuck in imobilser mode. Garage I spoke to said petrols can be different crank but don't start at all so was thinking it might be a transponder fault or key reader thats failed. Alasdair

Have a look in the rear of car. I discovered a multicd unit in the left hand side panel in boot that I didnt know I had. Mines an estate

When you say key won't work in drivers lock does it turn or is the lock stuck. They have a habit of seizing up as they never get used. Try spraying wd40 or similar into lock and leave for a while. As for the ignition it could be the chip in the key thats failed but if its tempramental it may be the reader thats in or around ignition thats not picking up key or perhaps the ignition switch itself. I assume you changed the battery in the fob? You could get a second hand fob off ebay and get a new blade cut and a decent auto locksmith should be able to copy the chip in your original key and fit it to the new one.

I hope the MOT guy was referring to the orange colour fading on the bulbs and not the unit itself. Had MOT yesterday as well with no advisory so happy today. Alasdair

You could see if anyone is selling second hand one. Mate got a decent halfords one for £100 Alasdair

I forgot and car was off road for a few days while I fixed what I reckond was needed. Was lucky to find a new garage to me that could do it next day once I had done the repairs. Most of the MOT places here have at least 3 weeks until their next slot if your lucky. Good luck for next month Alasdair