Alasdair1

I had the same but the previous owner had upgraded headlights to 80/100w which eventually fried the wiring where it connects to bulb and also took out the fuse connector. Hope its just a blown bulb/fuse Alasdair

Could also be worn brushes in the alternator. It may manage to charge at higher revs on longer journeys but not at start up.

If it hasnt been done for at least two years it may be the problem. Enough fuel getting through for idle and low revs but not enough when you put the foot down. My old local garage when servicing changed all filters annually and not by mileage. It only takes a fill up or two of dirty/contaminated fuel. I recently did my 08 1.9tdi and the fuel filter was almost blocked. It had a weird jelly like substance in it which I eventually found out is a weird bacteria/algae diesel bug that can grow in diesel. Normally found in marine diesels. I also had in my old tractor. No idea where it came from although I normally get diesel for boith at our local garage who have recently had their tanks replaced???? Treated the system with a marine diesel additive and so far so good Hope its as simple as a new filter Alasdair

If its possible then when fitting winders I normally make sure the winder handle is vertical with the knob at the bottom. I had an old volvo that the windows kept opening slightly when driving probably due to gravity and vibration. I changed the angle of the winders and they stopped opening when driving. Hope its a simple fix/conversion

If its the DMF failing you can get a rattle as well as vibration. I have had one that rattled on start up but gradually settled down when driving. You can also get a judder when at clutch biting point. What mileage has the clutch done? I have read its possible to remove starter and use an inspection camera to look inside the bell housing. Alasdair

DMF is a dual mass flywheel.When they fail they can rattle and also cause vibration. If the noise goes when clutch is pressed then it could be a bad release bearing but also the gearbox. If you can hear it while driving then press clutch and freewheel. If its still there then I assume Gbox. if it disapears then I reckon its a clutch DMF issue Alasdair

The original airbag ecu will have a part number/serial number on it. You could try a second hand one with the same numbers if you can find one. It might work. Replaced a complete ECU on an old toyota and got away with it. If there was a fire it could be cable damage but it might be worth checking and cleaning airbag ecu contacts. Be careful you don't set any off. There will be a way of draining voltage/charge in system of before removing anything.

Could be the camshaft sensor is failing but it might be worth getting timing checked just in case there is a problem developing with new chain. I would perhaps change the camshaft sensor to rule it out.

Maybe fuel related? Has the fuel filter been changed recently. Could be partly blocked or at the moment here frozen. Alasdair

May have a DMF thats failing. or a failed rattling release bearing. Does it judder at all when taking off and does the noise disappear when the clutch is pressed? Alasdair

There a lot of things on Utube that are useless or wrong/outright dangerous. I learnt old school by watching proper mechanics and haynes manual plus a bit of trial and error. Just did my first FWD clutch on my sons Fabia. Done plenty of RWD but it ook me ages but got there in the end. Mechanicaly I can do most things but I'm struggling these days as theres so many sensors and electronics involved. Bit out of my comfort/knowledge zone. Not sure if the new injector would have to be coded with vcds? or if your mechanic already done it. If its not coded I assume it would be ok at idle but may be way out at higher revs. Hope the next scan pings something up. Not sure where you are but have a look locally for a vw/skoda specialist. We have a couple locally who know the cars inside out. Alasdair

Let us know. I have a similar problem with my octavia 1.6 tdi Get a weird wobble/shake at around 40 and when accelerating. Seems to be better when I press the clutch and coast but some days its worse than others. Have checked all bushes and tyres/suspension and drive shafts. Was thinking it might be DMF but its ok when I take off and at lower speeds. I have no engine light (yet!) Alasdair

Did you change the camshaft sensor and knock sensor either might be sending false info to the ecu. By what you have said you seem to have covered everything. Hopefully someone else on here will have an idea where to look. Alasdair

If its the manifold I would think the fault would be present all the time unless its temperature related ie sealed when warm but not when cold which is unlikely the reason for 16555 code. Could be a faulty 02 sensor but I reckon that would put eng managment light on judging by the symtoms. The other thing it could be is the MAF but again I would think the eng manag light would come on. Sorry I cant think of anything else to check. Alasdair

Not sure if its any help but the clicking if it is a relay could be one for a fuel pump. I its contacts are failing it would explain the non start randomly. Think they are near the fuse box but under the dash. Alasdair Dont know if you have but it might be worth checking for fault codes? Alasdair

16555 is fuel mix too lean basic checks would be air intake leak/vaccum leak etc or fuel filter blocked. Could also be failed or leaking intake manifold gasket. Not sure if theres an in tank filter? I have had one break free on another car and float about causing air getting into fuel. Only did it when tank was less than 1/4 full. Alasdair

I agree wwith checking wiring etc especially as stated the small wire going to starter. I have had that problem a few times over the years. I get my batteries from Tayna batteries. Half the priceI could get it locally and their delivery service was excellent.

I would get the car scanned for fault codes. If I remember a flashing glow plug symbol is a problem with engine management. It can put car in limp mode or if its a majorfault the car may just stop. Check the connections/wiring at the MAF sensor and get it scanned to see if it pings anything related up. Alasdair

Could be the ignition switch failing? Read on here recently someone with similar problems. Car would randomly not start.Their garage bypassed the ignition switch with a button on a temp measure until they got a new one. Alasdair

Got a bit of snow today but not much. Hope the train gets through. The line was closed from perth to inverness due to flooding last week but not sure if its open again. We are on the Wick line from Inverness and I think its the same. Landslips and flooding etc. Havent heard any trains in the last few days. Alasdair.

If theres a small plastic cap then I assume its the original door card as my sons 06 plate doent have the plastic cap. You may be right that the motor was somehow retrofitted but hopefully the original mechanism is still there minus the door winder it might be an easy convert. When you get back I would remove door card and have a look. Its -2C in inverness today with sunshine if your heading north but no snow. Alasdair

I was going to try and convert my sons from electric to manual as his window controller failed plus the regulator totalled itself. If I remember correctly the door panel is different as well as the internal door plate. If yours had add on electric windows fitted then the manual fittings may still be behind the card. Is there any sign of where a manual winder would have been on the door card?

I think your right 6Q1 is LHD and 6Q2 is RHD. Theres a lot on ebay from eastern europe. If the rack is leaking then It looks like a replacement or exchange as it would be an instant MOT fail these days. My folks had the same but the estate version and had no problems with the car at all apart from a new clutch and a few bushes etc. It had done 90000 when our postie managed to drive into the side of it and it was written off. Alasdair

90mA is a bit high but could be quite normal depending on whats fitted to car. probably caused by alarm or something thats on even when ignition is off like clock etc. Have you tried reading for fault codes? If its the heater plugs it may show up something. I have had one short out on me in the past. I would as said check earths. If ones coroded or poorly connected then it could cause low voltage when under load and vary depending on how wet/frozen it is. Electrical problems are a nightmare. Other option is to start removing fuses and try and see whats causing the drain. Had an old volvo with a bad backup battery for alarm that was drawing 150mA until it decided to burn itself out. Took me a while to work that one out. It was the same fuse as the clock on the dash.

When its being jump started does it turn over at normal speed or is it slow. It could be a faulty starter motor. I had one that the coils were failing and it was only turning engine over about 1/2 speed which was too slow for my old diesel merc van. It would just manage if there was an extra battery involved but wouldnt start when cold unless it was jumped. If your battery is only about a year old I would take it back or get it checked as its probably still under waranty. Check earth connections and battery terminals as well.