J.R.

I knew one day my curiosity while using VCDS would bite me on the backside. In ABS module basic settings I had initiated an ESP function test, it did not bring up any instructions which I believe is a serious ommission by Rosstech, so after waiting I got bored and played with something else. Today I had the ABS and ESP lights flashing permenantly while I drove, not good when I have a CT restest on Tuesday. The fault code 01486 came up which is actually a notification that the test is still in progress, the output test now has a note saying the test must be completed to remove the code but doesn't tell you how. Rosstech and others show how the test should be done which requires a large empty car park & driving with the laptop connected which I won't do (blind in left eye), many reported that it didn't work for them. In fact there is a much simpler way, go into the output test 103 and do nothing, do not press activate, if you look carefully it will say the test is deactivated in tiny text somewhere, you simply come out of the test and erase the fault code, job done and no pressing the brake pedal to 35 bar & then driving at 20kp/h in left & right hand circles with between 90° and 180° of steering angle while staring at a laptop screen. As the title says, best you dont try the feature!

Don't waste your breath.

Thread 4 years old so GP is unlikely to respond, can anyone else justify that comment with a cogent explanation?

Complete and utter BS, the pick up pipe draws from the lower level where the mythical sediment is supposed to be at all times whether the tank is full or empty. It will not stir up sediment any more in either situation, now if the sediment were floating, an oxymoron, then that would be a different matter. It's one thing to swallow BS especially when we are young and learning/trusting but another to regurgitate it as "the best advice I have ever had"

If it bothers you then realign the needle. I was going to post that it was highly unlikely that a modern engine could idle at 400 rpm like a stationary engine.

Many of us appreciate you for that, I'd like to think the majority do.

Correct. With a healthy engine and the PCV (positive crankshaft ventilation) system working well there would be some pulsing if you left the cap on loosely like you did but not of that amplitude and it should be sucking more in than pushing out. Your oil consumption does not sound excessive & may be less than you think (depends on what level it was previously filled to), I would start by inspecting, removing, cleaning and testing the PCV valve & hoses, that alone may be responsable for the oil consumption. I would also do a compression test to be certain.

Or not there (blocked) in this case judging by the video.

Because thats the button they press to add that line to the service invoice. "Onset of inner face glazing" is one they have thought long and hard about while dreaming up, impossible to challenge. At 12 months and that mileage I would bet that the inner face is pretty much the same as the outer face and nowhere near needing replacement.

Yes, amongst many others, the parameter description was different yet again but I think its the same thing, it was from that article I drew my very speculative conclusion that the anti-noise measure is allowing the coupling to freewheel at resonant speeds, I don't think that mine is 100% engaged at lower speeds. I will have a play but around here I would have to go on the péage autoroute to test it and being blind in the left eye I daren't do it with the laptop connected to VCDS.

Indeed, congratulations! The brushes look good but the arcing on the ring terminal tells me that the connection nut was loose.

A month ago I paid the tuners whose remap I used (Celtic Tuning) to remove or roll back the "Emissions fix" software, I was fed up with the frequency of regens regardless of the driving conditions, it was regenning 3 or 4 times a tank of fuel even if I drove 500 miles on autoroutes on a wide throttle opening towing a heavy trailer. At my destination I was doing an 18km commute which was enough to trigger a regen but not long enough to complete, I had just done 500 miles passive regenning all the way, the measured soot was virtually zero but the calculated was at the 22 or 25g threshold, at the end of every journey the rad fan was running to show an incomplete regen. It was definitely ignoring the measured soot values and regenning on the calculated ones, my neighbours car that has never had the fix did the opposite, the calculated values would actually come down on VCDS after he had driven for 10 miles at speed. A month after having the fix unfixed I have done another 2000 miles if not more and never once heard the radiator fans, I have been checking the kms since the last regen and its currently on about 900 kms (VCDS shows it in meters yet calls it kms) and 13g calculated, 3g measured so it has regenned once, maybe twice but probably on the autoroute journeys. The engine does sound sweeter and more responsive, hard to say if the economy has increased because of the differing journeys that I am doing, it is definitely no worse and on a 40km B & C (equivalent) road journey with litte traffic I have exceeded 60mpg a couple of times which I never managed before. The anxiety of leaving a vehicle with the fans running and not being confident that they would stop has now gone!

I found this parameter in VCDS under AWD Controller "Adaptions" I think, has anyone ever heard of it? Google searching gets lots of hits but nobody really seems to know what it really is and its confused by having various different names. Mine has 4 different parameter options, 2 for diesel and 2 for petrol, mine is diesel and both of them were not activated but one of the petrol ones was activated with a figure of 1750, I think the values ran from 1000 to 5 or 7000 so they could be RPM. Reading between the lines it could be that the Haldex disconnects above a certain RPM threshold in the higher gears, others think that its to make it come on fully below certain RPM's to react like a RWD car, that may be the case on earlier versions where the parameter did not say "Anti Drone" My car has always had a drone above 70mph, I thought it was because I had ran the diff without oil but I have done 30K miles since correcting that mistake and the diff hasn't siezed or got any worse, I have a new rubber coupling to fit as I thought the old one had split around its circumference but the new one shows it is manufactured like that so I am holding off. I am a bit concerned about playing with the values and that my Haldex appears to be programmed for petrol & not diesel Anti Drone, maybe I should just try disabling the pump and seeing if the droning goes or does the pump disengage the coupling? I will read the self study guide tonight for more info. If it gets rid of the noise I am quite happy to have FWD only above 70mph. Hopefully someone else will have seen this parameter and had a play.

It didn't pick it up, it showed a default value for signal outside of parameters, lack of signal more like, rubbish in = rubbish out. I am fairly sure that the needle wavering aside your vehicle is behaving correctly, you say "On the device we used last night after start up sensor 1 was slowly climbing" I suggest you take your friend as a passenger with the device connected and drive for 15 minutes from a cold satrt on your usual route, get him to look at the actual temperature readings compared to the indicated ones on the temperature guage, I reckon your engine will gradually warm up with a small hiccup as the water pump sleeve retracts and the auxiliary pump stops working, maybe another when the thermostat opens. Dependant on the speeds and your journey profile I reckon your engine will be up to full operating temperature within 10-15 minutes and the guage will have shown 90°c some time before that.

Sensor number 2 does not exist so you can ignore that. You say it has only been exhibiting this behaviour for a couple of weeks and the waterpump was changed in April, pretty much the same time, the weather got a lot hotter between the two dates. Other than the guage wavering what you describe to me is normal for a properly functioning system with the water pump sleeve and auxiliary pump, the guage would indeed read 90°c after 5 minutes driving in todays temperatures even though it is not a true reading, that it used to read 80° should be a big red flag, your engine was not getting up to temperature before, either a faulty or disconnected sliding sleeve or the previous pump was one without the system. I would say your engine is now behaving as it was designed and it wasn't before.

I attacked my relay plate as they were then called because of a problem with the K-jetronic fuel injection, no enrichment on cold starts, all the VAG dealers and garages simply said "replace the relay plate, it's always that", at great cost of course. Being the person I am I did the job that you did, it turned out to be preventative maintenance as it was not damaged and the fault remained, I eventually decided it had to the the "Thermo-time" switch which powers a 5th cold start injector, the time being inversely proportional to the coolant temperature. I hot wired it and the engine started. A new switch was out of stock, I needed to rig up a momentary switch to hot wire it for cold starts and I was working all the hours god gave miles from home at International Automotive Design, we had a compulsory lunch hour but I had no tools, spares or materials, using 2 drawing pins, a draughtsmans rubber eraser and some wire ripped from my rear speakers I rigged up a momentary switch by shaving the rubber to a certain thickness, putting the pins in opposing each other with the 2 stripped cables secured under the heads, I engaged the switch by pressing the pins together.

I had to do that job on my 1980 Scirocco GLi back in the day! Plus ça change..............

Roger Moore must have visited the woman in the flat next door to me because she would keep me awake at night saying his name!

I understand, it certainly has done something and it will have added some stiffness in the fore and aft direction, I hope it hasn't added too much stifness where it is undesirable, but as you have said, its an old knackered mounting so nothing to lose and everything to gain, I will definitely consider doing the same next time I have the sumpshield off or if I have to do suspension bushes (I have a creak and groan).

Why would they give themselves the grief when they have more than enough much more profitable and value added work from accident damage?

I started driving my vehicle at the beginning of the confinement in 2020, the date code on the Hankook Ventus Prime tyres is 2018, I don't know how many miles they had done, they had reasonably good tread but not new. After 20K miles of my driving they had 5-5.5mm tread remaining, I have now done 31K miles and they all have around 4mm remaining with a slight gradient wearing the outsides 1mm more than the insides, I have rotated them and also dropped the pressures last time as they were wearing more in the centre than the outsides, that seems to have evened out now and I should probably go up a couple of PSI. I fully expect to get 40K + miles out of them before they hit the tread wear markers or one gets to the legal limit on one part of the tread, an unknown mileage should be added to this for the time before I bought the car, it had averaged 20K per year, probably higher taking into account that it was a write off and may have been off the road for a few months, I reckon it had had a new set of tyres at 35k and 70K. I am astonished at how long these tyres have lasted, regular rotation has helped and I think the 4WD system reduces tyre wear on the front axle and overall.

Surely that is not the direction that the dogbone bush is loaded? Torque reaction would be a fore and aft motion which is where the bush is strongest and the voids allow for relatively free up & down movement for when the vehicle has vertical accelerations to reduce NVH. However as many have stated there is less engine movement without any corresponding increase in vibration or harshness then its all good, it's certainly something that I will consider.

My favorite review: So you cannot currently see the vehicle due to covid and are bidding blindly on things where description is incorrect in most cases! not to mention the loading fee, online bidding fee, highways jacket fee, late fee, storage fee, and many other ripping-off fees all for the sake of a mangled car which I bought listed as "starts and drives" but when it was delivered IT DID NOT EVEN HAVE AN ENGINE!!!!!!!!!! COMPREHEND THIS!!!!

If it was taken to Copart you were never expected to see it again, if you kick up enough fuss and do get it back it will have been given some free VIP treatment as ApertureS has described. I have had several cars written off over the years and always retained the salvage, repaired them & carried on driving a free car with money in the bank. Critically I have never ever allowed any vehicle to be taken to a salvage yard, the pressure put on me from the repeated phone calls by the insurers, loss adjusters, salvage yards & even them turning up insisting that they had to take the vehicle away, that it no longer belonged to me but the insurer shows exactly what financial incentive they all have to get their hands on the vehicle & write it off. You are in a far better bargaining position if you do not let go of the vehicle, once its in the hands of Copart wave goodbye to it and any chance of negotiating a better deal for yourself, instead you will be slapped with punitive storage charges.

Because they would have been harbouring a grudge against whoever owned the car at the time, the suggestion was that it would have been done in conjunction with one of the rear tyres, the logic (malicious) being that the self drilling screw would create a slow puncture on the rear tyre, that it would deflate when driving and the spare would lose its air when the victim got it out to replace the punctured wheel. Of course in this instance and with what has subsequently been written the rattly heat shield is almost certainly the reason but for those who scoff at the malicious suggestion lets just say that when you have been deliberately screwed over in business you learn a bit about sabotage.