J.R.

Something is amiss then, we agree on the pre-emptive engagement or whatever phrase is chosen (I don't think mine is a good description) and what it does, it should never be felt when pulling away in a straight line as there would be no transmission wind up unless the tyres were different rolling diameters. The Haldex plates should engage and disengage without being felt, it sounds like they are sticking and not releasing smoothly, even then in a straight line there should be no noticeable effect except during full on acceleration. That said mine is the only vehicle I have driven with a Haldex coupling but my comments are based on a good understanding of how the system works through the VAG self study guides and working on it, much of my knowledge is learning from my mistakes and they don't get bigger than when I drained (not) the Haldex fluid to service it!

My car came with Bosch Aérotwins and the arms are very good but the rubber wears and deteriorates like any other, my solution was an Ebay vendor who sells the specific rubber profile dirt cheap by the metre. The arms and blade carriers will probably outlast the car. Beware that a lot of people are selling overriced standard Bosch wipers or even counterfeits. I reckon Bosch dont even have any input into the manufacturing of the so called "Standard" wiper blades they sell, I think they just have Chinese ones branded, their logic being that they ight as well beat the counterfeiters at their own game, the person will not be buying Aérotwins anyway but will be swayed by the Bosch branding. Many big name brands especially luxury goods do the above, they created massive sub markets which keep the tiny by comparison luxury end afloat.

Put your smartphone away when you are driving, the rubbish that it is telling you is making you anxious! The lambda sensor switches high and low several times a second either side of the Lambda 1.0 stochiometric ratio, your app would have you believe that it is doing it every 10 seconds flipping from a very lean mixture to Lambda 1.0. It simply is not plausible, rubbish in = rubbish out.

🤣👍

If you believe that you are sure of that then you should try to make your fortune as a fortune teller!

£135 insurance premium for Fully comp or TPF&T on a Kodiaq? If so then insurance has halved in the 15 years I have been away.

🤣🤣 Did it also claim to turn the car into a f@nny magnet? 😆

And possibly still using imperial units? 7/8" square sounds more plausible than 7/8mm or 7 or 8mm square. Does anyone consider it a good or even a rational idea that a security fastener be used for the gearbox oil filler?

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You start by looking at the connector of the Haldex controller and the wiring to it, also the wiring to and the connector of the Haldex pump in case that is pulling down the controller, I have no idea why you would be chasing red herrings on wheel sensors. Are you able to interrogate the Haldex controller with the diagnostic software you are using, if it cannot connect to it then it confirms the communication fault as being present and permanent and not just a one off glitch possibly through low battery voltage.

When did a packet of three become a packet of 4?

I would sort out the wiper motor so there are no signs of impact or damage to it and then submit it for a glass replacement in the normal manner. Never having done one I dont know if you have to state what caused the damage, I will leave that between you and your conscience, I'm sure nearly all rear screen breakages are reported as "unknown, glass was broken when I returned to vehicle" The minute any body repairs become involved then its an insurance claim affecting NCB, glass alone is usually OK, Carglass or Autoglass wont have any motivation to say body repairs need doing.

You have not shown the secondary part of the fault code, maybe because of using a generic reader. Do you have: 004 - No Signal/Communication? Maybe with VCDS you would see that. I would speculate that the fault is in either of the wiring plugs to the control module or the pump, the latter seems to get more corroded and you will have already inspected the former.

The above will probably work even if you have removed the keys from the ignition before disconnecting the battery, you will probably feel safer with them in your pocket.

And you believed him? I have now recalled how I did it on my Yeti to avoid the alarm going off (which would silence in 5 minutes anyway). You will have a means of manually opening and locking the drivers door by key when there is no battery, a visible lock cylinder like mine or one behind a removable or sliding cover, check your door handle or consult the manual. The procedure, sit in car all doors closed & turn on ignition. Operate the all doors lock button (the anti-hijack one) open drivers door by internal handle leaving ignition on. Operate bonnet release lever and open bonnet. Disconnect battery. Close bonnet, remove key from ignition, close & lock drivers door manually. Job done. I am fairly certain that was the procedure I used, please advise if it works.

My bet is the throttle valve venturi is completely clagged up from the K-rap being sent through it during EGR, also I bet the emissions fix has been carried out (and hence the frequent EGR and clagging up) despite the owners wishes. It's easy to check on line if the fix has been done. My Yeti would not pull the skin off a rice pudding when I got it at 89K miles and was giving similar appalling MPG, after cleaning out the clag and allowing it to breath it was far more responsive and returned 45-55mpg overall. The shuddering and rattling on shutdown also ceased which I had feared was the DMF failing I then had the engine remapped to allegedly 184hp, I reckon its the 170hp standard map, and the MPG has not reduced but it did see off the DMF.

Agreed, I took mine apart and fixed it, it worked for a year and then failed on the day that I was delivering it to the person who had agreed to buy it from me sight unseen, as they had paid half my travel expenses (a 6 hours drive & then return by TGV) I knocked €30 off the price for a new one. As much as I like repairing things instead of replacing that one turned out to be a mistake.

I was looking carefully at mine & the options on VCDS last week as I need a Controle Technique, that is still the only viable solution other than my changing the coding of the body control module to say that the car is LHD instead of RHD and that is likely to screw up loads of other things.

To be fair it was not that any years ago that it was nothing short of a miracle for a vehicle to still be on the road after 10 years. I think 10 years is far too long to be expecting anything even a creative solution from Skoda or the dealer who sold you a 4 year old vehicle 6 years ago, even back then you would have had an uphill struggle after 6 months let alone 6 years.

Best not to fit your 15 year old Skoda spare tyres on the front axle of an articulated lorry, no problems is they are younger than that!

Impact sockets are not usually thin walled, in fact usually the opposite, a box spanner would be though. I would be checking all the wiring connections & cables for integrity before struggling to replace a second sensor. Editted, I agree that removing the bracket would be the best option, I don't think that was in the now editted posting when I read it.

This "self test mod" will presumably be some B.S. that the garage have fed you? The only time I ever feel anything from the Haldex coupling is occasionally when reversing out of a parking space on full lock, very occasionally, it is the controller pre-emptively engaging the Haldex and a slight bit of transmission wind up before it releases and very occasional.

Thats what they want you to believe, it can be +/- 15° from that and still indicate a rock solid 90°c.

You can not find it because there is not one. The rear wiper contains a canbus node, it has common large section live and neutral conductors and a twisted pair conductors for the can network, it gets its commands from the body control module/comfort control module which reacts to inputs from the wiper operating controls, the stalk, the wiper delay selector etc. You like I had to will have to unlearn all your previous knowledge, it was a steep learning curve and investing in VCDS an essential part of gaining the competence and understanding.

Which I think has answered my question.