J.R.

I wired mine in the same way from the auxiliary socket. The bypass relays only take a miniscule trigger current so should not produce any bulb warnings, I have fitted them to my last 2 vehicles (Octavia 2 and Yeti), they are far superior to the old school ones especially in regard to the audible warning for the indicators, no more mucking around tweaking inductive current sensing coils. I detest Scothlok connectors but there really isn't any better alternative, I use BT type glycerine filled ones that are better sealed and dont cut into the wire quite so much. The rear light cluster in both vehicles was one piece with metal busbars running to the individual bulbholders, the insulated loom ran to the connector which had strain relief for each conductor in one piece, what it fitted to your vehicle looks like the cheapest of Toytown aftermarket styling accesories, I am shocked that VAG whose wiring even back in the days of the Beetle was streets ahead of any other manufacturer should have stooped so low. I am still a Skoda fanboy but won't be buying a vehicle any newer, if this one continues to be as troublesome as it has, not bad but nowhere near as good as the previous ones then it will go and I will buy the best looked after oldest model I can find, somewhere between 2001 and 2006 is the sweet spot for me.

I have done that once or twice, one person got quite belligerant and said "that is theft!" and I replied, "now you know how it feels!"

The OE tail-light wiring is dreadfull, really shonky, until the later photograph which I enlarged I thought you had done a bodge job with the trailer wiring. Their wiring is thin and brittle as it is without having long unwrapped unsupported lengths of it like that; the green conductor already looks like it is fracturing.

I reckon somewhere between 30 and 50% of UK registered vehicles change owners within 6-12 months as part of the "ex demonstrator" tax fiddle. BCA runs closed auctions where nearly new vehicles with low mileage are returned by the fleet companies, hire companies, group employees, their extended families and everyone else they can attract by the giveaway deal in accordance with the conditions (6-12 months, 3-6K miles), these are for Ford or VW or Audi or Skoda etc only vehicles and the only bidders allowed are the main dealers from those groups, been going on for decades and yet every month we read of people convinced they have struck a superb deal on the sales directors personal car.

See, I said that a photo would not help you 😆 Guessing now, if its not there then somewhere on or in the centre console? On the glovebox of a RHD vehicle its tucked up to the top right on the front return edge of the frame and not really visible to the driver from the drivers seat, but that could be because I am blind in the left eye.

Inside the glove box. No photo needed.

Suction out engine oil then put car on ramp, remove undertray, remove sump plug & refit new one, refit undertray, lower car from ramp, all so they can charge for a sump plug. The only thing bigger than their inventiveness/crookedness is peoples gullibility!

They will say what they feel like and do what they feel like, I have come across 2 vehicles where the owners had been charged for new sump plugs & washers on every service for 5+ years yet when I try to remove the undertray the 2 6mm threaded fasteners that go into the crossmember were corroded solid and sheared of despite my being very patient going backwards and forwards with penetrating oil, they had never been removed since fitted at the factory, nor had the drain plug, not one single drip of oil had ever dribbled across the sump bottom. I use suction now because I can also suck out a considerable volume of oil from the oil filter housing/oil cooler and the port to the pump that would otherwise remain there.

You used Auto Windscreens & not Pilkington, did you even pay for the replacement or was it your insurer?

Good luck with expecting them to remove a perfectly good screen that they have already (supposedly) refitted once and replacing it with an OEM one because your ticket clip does not grip. For all the time that you have spent on this returning the vehicle, contacting Skoda & Pilkington (neither of which want to be spending their time with matters like this), posting on here etc you could have spent 3 minutes to remove the clip, bend it using a hot air gun or after submerging in boiling water and refitting it. It reminds me of an old insurance company advert "We won't make a drama out of a crisis!" except this is no crisis.

I bought an Octavia 1 with 188000 miles on the clock and took it up to 325000 miles over 15 years without any problems whatsoever let alone a niggle every month, in that time aside from very extended oil & filter changes & brake linings I had to replace the coolant temp sensor and the alternator brush pack, neither of which prevented the vehicle operating, I simply noticed anomolies while driving, it could have been a niggle to someone who cannot diagnose. The cam belt was not even changed till 250000 miles, belt alone, not kit, waterpump, pulleys etc, cost £8. In my oipinion the 105hp PD engine is the most bulletproof of the lot, later cars are more complicated and less reliable than the earlier models, I have had to do lots of work on my Yeti that never needed doing on the Octavias at 3 times the mileage. Buying a newer lower mileage vehicle is not always the best idea, if the OP's car has given him 40K miles in a year trouble free its worth him trying to resolve the coolant problem, the first step is to actually say what it is.

It sounds like a very tiny leak if at all, the OP does not say what their "coolant problem" is which does not help, I am assuming that they are deducing head gasket because they are topping up with water occasionally but not frequently, I could be wrong as there is nothing to go on. A small leak especially one that only manifests under high boost/high load conditions will not reveal itself on a compression test, the best test is one of the cheap sniffer kits that reveal combustion gases in the coolant. Until the OP reveals what their problem is I wont make any other suggestions other than the above, how to check if the head gasket is leaking into the cooling system.

There is no spring behind the pedal to fall out in the way you describe, there is a coil spring inside a plunger which acts on a cam to give control loading, in the first 50% of the stroke it will return the pedal to the top position, in the bottom 50% it gives assistance, if there is no fluid pressure acting on the piston it will push the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Nobody has asked what gearbox the OP has, if its a 5 speed with external slave cylinder then its not a gearbox out clutch replacement job, if its a 6 speed with concentric slave cylinder then it is. Nobody has suggested checking the master cylinder, they can and do fail, there is a powerfull magnet that operates a reed switch to tell the ECU that the pedal has been depressed, this gather abrasive metallic clag, from where I know not but it can score the cylinder also the piston pressure seal can fail without any leakage. 9 times out of 10 is the O ring on the later 2 piece concentric slave cylinder becoming abraded through vibration and allowing air to enter the system without ever leaking a drop of fluid, the physics of it are beyond me because it is always under hydrostatic pressure but that is the failure point. Clucth action can be restored simpy by opening the bleed nipple and closing it as soon as fluid dribbles out, you dont even need a spanner, it is done by hand, you will probably find the pedal action iffy after some while, whatever you do never lift the pedal up by hand or with your foot, that will 100% bring in air through the O ring.

No advice was given, it was an observation, information if you like, I gain an enormous amount of information from this forum from good hearted people who take the time and effort to transmit it, you may consider that posting for the sake of posting, I don't. The people who I learn the most from not surprisingly have a higher post count than others, that is something they should be applauded for not criticised.

There are no interpretations or speculation on my part, I have asked what was written on the MOT failure certificate, nobody else did. What the person had to say unless recorded is worthless, this evening alone there have been several examples quoted of garages saying rubbish, what counts in this case is what is written on the MOT fail certificate. I suspect one may not have been produced and it was a free "pre MOT inspection" I reserve the right to defend myself if somebody has a pop unfairly or in the last instance hypocritically, if thats bickering then so be it. I won't bicker with you regarding my post count, you are free to see it as a bad thing, I see it as contributing.

Unless I have confused the OP with someone else then there was a parallel thread detailing exactly what you say, collision damage, bodged wiring connectors etc, in it they said that the car was advertised as a repaired Category C or S write off and they knew the score when they bought it. They could not return the vehicle because of this so there is little chance of making a small claims court claim. My apologies to Dalmich if I have confused you with somebody else.

Usual BS and 100% incorrect, any emissions related OBDII generic code will remain until erased with a fault code reader that can access the module, for safety related functions like ABS and airbags it has to be a high level one like Snap On or a dedicated Marque one like VCDS. Low level codes like a high resistance or open circuit parking light bulb have a reset counter, if the fault is corrected, you may have replaced the bulb or cleaned a dirty contact then it does a countdown of X number (say 99) driving cycles free of the error being detected and when it reaches zero the fault code is erased, intermittent faults unless they heal up on their own will usually remain. A fault code for an ignition coil will never auto-erase let alone each time the engine is switched off, it relates to emissions which are the reason OBDII codes were mandated. When a garage says "there are no fault codes and/or they have auto-erased" and they relate to emissions it translates to "our reader cannot interrogate the module and find them but we don't know that"

That is terrible, from the silver letter in the photo was I right in where I think the location is? Yours does not look to have sealant in that area, as a jig & tool designer in a previous life that looks like a badly designed component or press tool, the material being overdrawn and cracking, maybe a dry film lubricant problem. Its looks to be stress corrosion and not a breakdown of sealant, no surprise that a repair would crack, I'm actually surprised at how little after 5 years.

Great, but does any of that assist the OP? Touché! 😆

I have already given my assistance to the OP and am waiting to hear what is written on the MOT before I can give any more, I'm not sure what you have quoted of mine because the quoted text just says "snip" on my screen I did not say it was better, I said that common sense had been applied. I was responding to the posting before about MOT tests, it is hypocrytical for you to tell me that I should not respond or discuss it (unless you are a moderator) when that is exactly what you go on to do yourself. Have you actually assisted the OP or just discussed the MOT test and told me that I shouldn't speak of the CT test in my country? Editted, I could not see all the postings while composing mine, I can now see that you did respond to the OP saying what you would do in their shoes.

Hello Daniel. What year is your vehicle? I think "sealings" might not be the correct word possibly due to an auto translation, its difficult to see what the photograph is of and what is the correct orientation. To me it looks like a photo of cracking paint on the side return flange of the tailgate where there is a horizontal swage line, is that correct? It also looks like the side of the panel may have been dented, perhaps the tailage has been closed when obstructed by an object? If it is a paint crack and not a leaking seal or leaking panel joint seal 5 years after a repair on a vehicle at least 5 years old then I cant see a main dealer or lawyer taking the matter very seriously. My apologies if I have misunderstood.

I think the geometry of the vertical tailgate on a Roomster or Yeti would preclude the use of die springs on the gas struts for auto-opening using the remote control. I did it on my Octavia Estate and it just about worked with new gas struts, older weaker ones that still support the weight when open didn't have enough force to take over when the die springs were extended, the saloon versions with their sloping tailgates were much more successfull. I think the over centre geometry and vertical tailgate would even preclude powered boot struts.

Once the car is properly up to temperature including the whole exhaust system, a good proper drive you should not see any water vapour from the exhaust, it's possible that the removal of the catalytic convertor makes your vehicle produce more condensate than an unmodified one but once properly warm it should subside. There is an exception to the above, if the vehicle was driven for a long time with a blown head gasket then after the repair vapour can be apparent for a week or so from where the excess has collected in the silencer boxes unless the vehicle has done a 100 mile plus fast motorway journey to clear it. Same deal for a big quantity of oil or brake fluid in the exhaust system.

More Google Guff, relevant if you are talking about a cooker hood over a wok or chip pan, a road vehicle never heats the damper fluid to even a fraction of its boiling point, the seals would have let go well before that. Misting is a mantra, when the seal wears the fluid leaks and seeps through gravity to around the lower part of the strut and spring pan, when it really starts leaking it will spray from the seal when the strut compresses very fast which it will do once the bump damping is compromised. When oil evaporates from a chip pan it rises like any vapour and condenses on a cool surface higher up, the ceiling, cooker hood, cupboard bottom etc, VAG & the internet would have you believe that this evaporated oil vapour defies the laws of physics and falls to condense on the shock absorber body!

Lets stop using the mantra that they are all trotting out, "misting" is leaking, calling it by another name is a diversion tactic like "global warming" becomes "climate change". Front struts never used to leak systematically from the get go, after the initial bad old days of the late 60's early 70's they would usually go on for years remaining dry and oil tight, a decade in the case of my MK1 Octavia, once you see some evidence of minor leakage its only a matter of time, any oil seal once it starts to leak gets worse fairly quickly as the oil attracts dust & becomes an abrasive paste, the strut will continue damping until sufficient fluid has been lost for it to lose damping initially on bump & then rebound. When VAG vehicles were racking up lots of warranty claims where shocks were leaking on or before the first MOT they coined the get out of jail phrase "misting" to refute claims. My front struts removed today at 102K miles & 6 years old were completely foutu, precious little oil remaining, gas capsule non pressurised, no damping on bump, a tiny bit on rebound. I lifted the gaiters to inspect them at 4 years old 79K miles, they were dry as a bone, damping was fine for a further 18 months when I started to notice some pitching when towing a large overloaded single axle trailer, in short order it was doing it when unladen & not towing, I think from the start of the leak to dangerous was less than 12 months. Anyone mechanic or otherwise who says or writes on a forum"Any shock that has been over-compressed (pot hole etc) will have a slight bit of misting" is talking out of their backside although its probably written in the book of excuses that the service receptionists trot out and they are usually of a type to try so hard to appear knowledgable and convincing that they end up believing what they say.