J.R.

Sounds like a master cylinder fault in which case. To rule out rear brake adjustment, pull up the handbrake hard & pump the pedal (engine running) if it comes up and feels firmer then the rear brakes are not self adjusting properly. Despite the numerous recieved wisdom you will read water content in the brakes whilst very undesirable will only be a problem if you brake so hard that you boil the fluid in the calipers, a system filled with water will give a rock hard pedal, don't ask how I know for sure! Same deal with the oft repeated tale of spongy brake hoses, they are all reinforced and only if that were mechanically removed would they swell, plus the volume required to give a long or spongy pedal would be like watching a baloon inflate, its something put out by the sellers, ludicrously they trot out the same line regarding clutch flexible pipes where the system does not hydraulically lock like the brakes and the gullible who have been taken in even say how much better the clutch feels. Most of our vehicles have a spindly plastic master cylinder pushrod which will shear if the clutch slave cylinder is mechanically locked or the end of the flexible pipe is clamped, I did this once by mistake and the pedal pressure to do so was barely above that to operate the clutch, the notion sold that the reinforced flexible pipes swell under the very limited operating pressure making the pedal spongy is inconceivable. I should add that I used braided brake hoses on my competition vehicles but that was as much for show as for go, also you could at the time make them up yourself with various end fittings so make custom hoses for non standard brake calipers, the hydraulic clutch on my bike engined conversions etc, I seem to recall that they should have been an MOT failure at the time although most testers didn't, I can't recall the reasoning but it was a solid one.

Two very good explanations, 100% correct. Muddyboots, your theory is fact and very well explained, I simply called it transmission wind up which any old school 4x4 owner would have experienced and understood, I was not capable of explaining it in writing as well as you did. Its less of a clattery "snatch" on the Yeti because of the inherent damping of the guibo coupling, without it you would feel and hear the tyres resisting.

You are the only one making it personal my comments were general, spoke of "people" and aimed at no-one it's a shame that you have indeed decided that personal insults are the way to go. I made no comments about yours or Phil E's driving abilities, you even wrote "but yes, I agree, losing traction is usually a failing" I have read back through all of my replies to you on this thread and they were all 100% respectfull and I can see nothing from anyone written since my posting that you quoted that has been anything like good natured discussion so I don't understand your reference to waiting to see how it developed nor your response.

Get someone to look at it, we cannot even hear it! If you have the part number for the strut to mount fitted check to see if it is bundled with a bearing, otherwise look up underneath with a torch and compare to the other side, get someone to turn the steering from lock to lock while you are looking at the strut, you will probably see the coil spring wind up and snatch or jerk when the creaking noise happens.

I will swop your problem with mine, I have to enable the LHS foglight of my RHD Yeti for the French CT test quite soon! Yours is a RHD vehicle isn't it?

They may even have assembled it without the bearing, it would have stuck to the old mount and the underside of a new mount without bearing has the same material, colour and ribbed pattern. Take it to another mechanic to diagnose the noise and explain your suspicion.

No lubrication, the strut top is a rubber to metal bonded bush, in any case the rotational movement of the strut is taken care of by a seperate bearing which is a seperate item to the strut top mounting, this also does not require lubrication. They may have made a mistake in thinking that the strut top contains the bearing, look at your invoice, you should have been charged for top mounts, bearings and bump stop rubbers. I just bought some top mounts from Ebay that were advertised as top mounts and bearings, on arrival they were the mounts only, no bearings. Any advice to lubricate suspension be it from the main dealers, garages or a forum is wrong, vehicles for a minimum of 50 years now have had rubber to metal bonded suspension bushes that should under no circumstances be greased or oiled. I know the main stealers slap grease all over the wishbone console bushes and there is even a technical bulletin telling them to do so but it is a bodge to hide the real problem that under certain conditions the articulation of a saggy bush will allow metal to metal contact between the wishbone and the subframe.

Were there to be another cause then pointing it out would not be worming out of their responsabilities.

Why are you asking strangers the question that only you can decide? If as you say you consider it essential then you wait, but you might just find out that it has been deleted because it is a bag 'o' s***e and won't make a return until they can get their act together if that ever happens.

MIL light on the dashboard and fault code that cannot be deleted with a basic code reader, VCDS or similar used, not the end of the world.

Yes Sir! Do you have any other orders for me? Who are the other people hijacking your thread, they may not realise.

So much for privacy, just wait till someone gets abducted or attacked or worse by a stalker.

Don't turn the ignition on while the airbag is disconnected.

See if the Police do anything, if they dont then write it off to experience, you did flip his mirror first, be thankfull that he didn't use his vehicle as a weapon. I would be surprised if the DVLA would give out his address to an individual under "finding out who was responsible for an accident", would you feel comfortable knowing that he might do the same but for a different reason?

What is this pressure test that they claim to have done?

Thankyou Langers, thats what I recalled. He will appreciate the info. Although they probably wont have harder solder on the terminal so wont last any longer!

Thats a reasonable assumption, my posting was a reply to your question: "how does it calculate the dfference between MAF values and actual?" If you were measuring block values at a standstill I would not expect to see EGR activation.

When EGR is commanded and everything is functioning as it should then the EGR valve opens, the throttle valve closes partially increasing manifold depression to suck through the EGR gases together with the incoming filtered air, this will result in a lower airflow going through the MAF, if the ECU does not see this, usually becuase someone has blocked off the EGR pipe it will throw up a fault code & MIL light & probably go into limp mode, not certain of the latter. Hence the reason that EGR emulator/simulators exist, when EGR is commanded they tell the ECU what it wants to believe from the MAF sensor rather than the true value that it is reporting.

I didn't comment because the postings were several years old but typical of the massive amount of nonsense posted were those I read that said the engines if fuelled with a lower octane carburant would run rough for 700 miles while the ECU adjusted, complete horse poo, the piezo crystal knock sensors fitted to every engine for the last 26 years minimum send a signal to the ECU which retards the ignition in milliseconds, change to a higher octane fuel and the engine will develop more power (if it had been detonating on the lower grade) within milliseconds also.

Weight reduction, yes these cars just get lighter and lighter dont they, I'm surprised they dont blow away in the wind, I mean the Mini Countryman only weighs 1790kg compared to the original Mini at 580kg, thats some serious flimsyness 🤣 I suspect the progress towards weight reduction on the C Max's may not be in the direction you think, the problem is they are all so heavy now that none of us can push one even a couple of foot to realise the new one is even heavier, in the 70's I could push any car around the workshop single handed, on TV last night Guy Martin & Cameron pushed a Trabant with ease up the ramps onto a trailer, I never had winches on my trailers, 2 people could push any vehicle up the ramps.

450ml is the volume of two cups of coffee or nearly 8 Expressos, its bigger than my flask. WTF do I have to click that I am a human then do 2 different Captcha quizzes just to look at a supersized coffee cup? I had that before with Wilko.

I was polite, I wanted to know if you really believed that there were no additives in supermarket fuel which you have not answered. Have you perhaps confused my posting with Root-Toot who spoke of 'total nonsense!" I am not disputing that some additives in premium fuels which may not be present in supermarket fuel bring benefits and many say that they get better MPG which covers the extra cost, I am not disagreeing with or challenging anything, I simply wanted to know if you genuinely believe that there are no, zero, none, additives in supermarket fuel or had just expressed yourself incorrectly. I recall when fuel, supermarket or otherwise had no additives apart from lead and made my (2nd) living decoking engines, replacing rotten exhausts, changing filthy congealed sump oil etc, then they started adding detergent additives to all fuels including supermarket fuels and I have never had to decoke an engine or grind in valves ever since,(racecars aside) it was late 80's perhaps early 90's. My pal worked for a nationwide company supplying fuel pumps & forecourt equipment and another delivered fuel from the refineries, all the fuels had additive packages, the premium fuels had different ones that they made big claims for but a lot of what they claimed was in the basic additive package anyway, they may have had higher percentages of some and different versions of others, they don't publish what they are.

The steering knuckles will need to be changed.

Do you really believe that?

The oil ash mass or volume as my car records it goes up incrementally with each 10k kms driven, using an additive may reduce the build up but I doubt it, but the ECU will record the calculated figure from its algorithm regardless. Before you had the flush out what level was it recording? Had it gone into limp mode? Were regens frequent? I am asking because my calculated soot levels are a fraction of the calculated ones since fitting the EGR emulator but the regens are frequent and the calculated oil ash volume keeps climbing, nobody has been able to tell me what will happen when the ECU calculation exceeds the service limit. I could do the procedure in VCDS to reduce the figure like yours has been if it were to avoid a shutdown at a critical moment and also if it reduced the frequency of regens, otherwise I wont meddle.