J.R.

I read some details of your problem on another thread, if I have understood correctly you have "slippage" on the smallest rear sprocket (ie the highest gear) is that when you are really standing on the pedals? Is it more of a jump one tooth at periodic intervals? If so then its something that I experienced after replacing the chain, a new chain on a worn sprocket, and its the top gear sprocket that gets the most wear, will "hook up" and have one link looped outside and not engaged, hard to describe but when it leaves the sprocket your pedals jump forward as the slack is taken up. When I looked really carefully I could see it happening, it was only when I was really standing out of the saddle and driving my quads hard. I was sceptical that replacing the rear chainset would cure it and it was very difficult to find one for my vintage bike, I did get one at a good price and it resolved the problem. If its continuous slippage then its a worn out chain and possibly sprocket as well, be aware that changing just the chain might result in the new problem that I had. Apologies if I have misunderstood your problem, I assumed that you would have no problems adjusting the derailleur stops, cables etc.

Once or every time? It should not happen in either case, once would be an indication of problems to come, all the time and there is something wrong.

Describe how you carried out the test, what did you connect or disconnect?

Plus at present it is in "no fault found" (but we will still charge you £75 for diagnosing what we already know we are going to tell you) mode. Keep an eye on it and be ready to throw it back at the dealer when it hopefully becomes a permanent fault. With luck it will then be them trying to convince you to contribute towards the timing belt replacement while they have the old one off to replace the waterpump.

I'm not sure that a Haldex coupling on your model year has an external replaceable filter.

Perhaps the fans are triggered from a different temperature sensor, one in the radiator core or circuit? In 4 miles the engine would not have have reached that temperature except if the warm up strategy of shrouding the waterpump was maintained too long (shroud stuck) and there was no circulation through the radiator. Good advice re testing with the aircon

Any puller with a standard angular thread form like that is a toy, it should have a square thread. An exception can be made on a hydraulic puller as long as the thread is a large enough diameter to resist the hydraulic load and the thread is only used for taking up the slack before using the hydraulic tommy bar to create the force.

The best outcome that you can optimistically hope for is that the battery will restart the car after fully charging but it will be irreperably damaged and toast for anything other than local use while you organise a new battery, if you think it has recovered more than that then take it to a battery specialist for a proper test or even invest in an electronic tester. I dont think you will be relying on this battery next winter and be aware that many of them these days fail at the height of summer.

That was not at all my intention, when I read a post the thread title is usually off the top of the screen and I frequently misunderstand because I can not see all the information, a good example is people not putting their vehicle details under their user profile, making a posting requesting info which does not say what year, model or engine their vehicle has, I have often replied asking for confirmation only to later see that it was in the thread title. In this case nobody could really understand the first posting unless they were able to see and read the title at the same time, on my computer you cant, I imagine its even worse on a mobile device. Sorry to have unintentionally upset you.

The thread title reveals all! He is trying to push the driveshaft back from the hub, I would advise giving the force screw head the good news with a hammer but its more effective if the balljoints have not been removed, a kettle of hot water might help.

Water pump sleeve sticking.

Deleted, brain fade!

I wont take your bet, & I am guessing that you were being ironic in saying that your car has appreciated in value, you probbaly appreciate that its an automated e-mail that gets sent out to everyone that does not respond to the first offer. They are still contacting me a year later.

If this were a complaint about a mobile phone then I could sympathise but we are talking about a motor vehicle and none of the above affect its primary function or render it not fit for purpose, they are all niggles with systems that I would never want in any motor vehicle that I will ever own yet for reasons unfathomable to this dinasour who carrys roadmaps seem to be the sole deciding factor in vehicle purchase these days hence the Volvo advert "Like your smartphone but better" And it's not limited to the infotainment system, all the other must have toys & gimmicks bring no end of problems, in the 2 years since I have started using this forum again I have seen it change fundamentally with the newer vehicles and now its very rare to read a thread about a real mechanical or electrical problem that affects the vehicles driveability or reliability, its nearly all Phone/Android/Carplay/Skoda Connect/Driver aids related. Its an observation & not a complaint, I realise the demographic changes with time & people buy newer vehicles but I can't help but thinking what did people really expect when they choose a vehicle for attributes unrelated to its function? Nanny state intervention is also to blame, it sounds like the emergency services are going to be besieged with unintentional calls from drivers everytime the car loses a phone signal that I would never want it to have.

Good point.

My ring piece tells me when to replace tyres, they may have loads of tread but be K-rap.

You can get more mileage from taking an evenly worn set of part worn tyres with that sort of depth to the legal limit than they would have given from new to get to that point where the tyre industry recommends that people replace them. I have not bought a new tyre in 15 years with the exception of one to replace a punctured tyre where the other had good tread, I have either bought carefully selected part worn tyres or got excellent mileage out of the tyres on the vehicles that I have bought (only 2 vehicles in 15 years, 3 years and one year ago). Tread wear is rapid from the average 8mm depth on a new tyre down to 5mm when the tread blocks become more rigid and from then on the wear diminishes sharply the lower the tread depth becomes, most tyres are scrapped well early because they have been overdriven when they were new and the outside edge scrubbed out, the outer band will then become illegal when the rest of the tyre has more than 5mm of good tread, I only select tyres that have even wear and that are matched. My current vehicle had good tyres, about 6mm tread depth and thankfully even I drive carefully and measure obsessively the tread depth gradient across the tyres, swopping them around and optimising the pressures to get even wear, after 12k miles on already used tyres it looks like they will give 2 or 3 more times that, I however did use winter tyres for 3 months but they showed no measurable wear.

Thanks, thats good to know. Tyre pressures do not increase as much as people believe as the unit of temperature used in the combined gas law is degrees Kelvin. A track tyre running over-hot at 100°c would increase the original 2 bar pressure( at 20°c) by less than 8 psi but that would be if the tyre construction was rigid and it could not increase in volume, were that the case then the pneumatic tyre would not have been invented, in practice the tyrewall will bulge and the tread contact point will diminish increasing the rolling radius and it is the latter that could affect the TPMS, on a circuit perhaps where most if not all the bends (on an oval) are in one direction but on the road they usually cancel out.

Is that true that all new cars since 2018 have to be factory fitted with the crock of sh1te? Yet another reason to not buy any newer vehicle.

Rather like housemice surely you can remove a rear wiper without having to kill it? What is advertised on that site appears to be some bad taste T-shirts offensive to those who don't want to kill anything, I note that the site is killallwipers, best not to try it on my car

The TPMS detects a differing rotational speed between wheels of each axle when driving in a straight line, there is no tolerance in terms of the angular velocity being minutely less at higher temperatures, the tolerance is between the two wheels on the same axle, unless there is a dragging brake etc they will heat up by the same amount. In those terms there is no problem with resetting the TPMS with hot tyres if all the pressures are correct.

Can anyone translate that posting for me please?

You can also change the regulator/brush pack in situ on the MK1 without removing the alternator, its much cheaper, easier if like me you are away from your workshop & only have limited tools and its nearly always what has failed. I did mine at about 200k miles & it was still fine at 325K when I scrapped it. The warning light came on on the M25 heading for my ferry back to France, it left me in a quandary, could I continue on the journey or should i lose a few days and the price of the crossing? I carried on and learned just how little electricity the MK1 with its mechanical injection uses when running, basically just the ECU and a few sensors plus use of lights & indicators etc. I drove about 170 miles including one engine start at Calais including one hour with the headlights on, there was still enough battery capacity left to restart the next day. A MK2 or later vehicle with electric power steering, injectors etc would be fault code city when the battery voltage dropped even slightly. I dont think that my MK1 even had an electric fuel pump.

Sorry, not coming out to play. You've inferred in this thread that a cheap camera will do the same job as a Skoda camera without coding it but you choose not to back up up your statements by explaining how this can be done. Your mind works in a strange way. I will take your advice.

Its news to me that I did, reliably or otherwise. The question mark at the end of this cut n paste might give you a clue. Won't a €12 Ali-Express camera do the job or have VAG done something to make you have to go to them? You seem to have some agenda but I'm sorry to say that I am not going to bite & play the game.