J.R.

That seat material looks like a wipe clean padded commode cushion Great for urban town centre taxi drivers!

If they bled the system they may have removed or dislodged the particle that will have been obstructing the fluid return through the clutch torque limiter so the problem may take a long time to re-occur, the damage will have been done to the master cylinder though by the natural instinct of lifting the pedal back up. Not sure how long you have left to refuse the vehicle but the hot weather will be the time that the fault will re-occur if it is going to.

Scotland and Wales do indeed have capitals, unlike scotland and wales. Should capital have a capital C ?

Hard to part with a car that you say is not yours , one where your Nan is the main driver, that your Aunty sometimes uses to go to work and that you might use occasionally to go out for a meal with friends. Using taxis or even a private chauffeur driven limousine to occasionally take your friends to a meal will be a lot cheaper than paying for the insurance on your Nans VRS that you cant bear to part with. Buy a low rated car that you can afford to insure, get some hopefully accident & claim free years behind you and then you can graduate to what you would like to drive, it's was exactly like that for me and everybody else 45 years ago and was not a new thing then, in probably 60+ years the insurers have had plenty of time to work out all the angles.

AA guy who came out said not to expect too much as they would probable not want to spend too much on it under warranty and may just try and fob us off. He has seen it all before!

A very widespread problem but one that the dealerships are in complete denial of. You can read from the above what they need to do but you have zero chance of convincing them, they play parts bingo with the customers money but wont when its them that have to pay the bill. I bet it started on the first warm day didn't it! If you contact the previous owner they will probably tell you that was the reason they traded it in.

Why dont you simply remove the steering wheel and look at the clock spring? Unless you dont have the tools you have already spent far more time posting and using an endoscope, I have spent more time writing this than to remove the airbag & steering wheel. Or am I missing something?

On what diagnostic equipment? A standard OBDII reader will not give you fault codes from the Climatronic controller let alone measuring blocks and compressor shut down codes, for that VCDS or the equivalent is needed. A Snap-On pro reader the like of which most garages will have would get to the module and show any fault codes but not (to my knowledge) the measuring blocks etc.

But why not share your knowledge gained from your experience? Surely that is what a forum is for.

Have a VCDS scan done and then check the compressor shut off codes under measuring blocks. Also the system pressure. For whatever reason be it a broken cable, low system pressure or another compressor shut down code the modulating valve is not being commanded, the high side pressure is not going up & hence the radiator fans wont be cutting in. I cant believe that this is really an "aircon garage" that you are speaking of if they have no clue other than playing parts bingo. How much have they already stiffed you for?

If you think they are taking the p1ss its probably because you started it! my nan and auntie as 1st and 2nd driver with 30 and 14 yr no claims bonus

Why dont you actually explain the experience that you have which has formed your opinion rather than telling people what to do? Or do you think that its too difficult for people to analyse information and make their own decisions?

I have, worn & stuck brushes, the second hand one that I eventually fitted after getting fed up of freeing mine off was not much better and would in time have failed so they certainly are not bullet-proof. It has to be the simplest of jobs (in the history of making cars hard to work on) to remove & work on and the OP may even find that its a leaf or part of the pollen filter that is blocking the rotation.

That is pretty much where I am, the clutch after the initial couple of operations is fine but not 100%, you and I have forgotten what that feel like! Mine was 100% after swapping for the modified torque limiter & bleeding but now when "fine" has that small amount of reserve travel. I am hoping that when I replace the master cylinder with one where the pushrod is 100% solidly attached to the piston that things will be 100% once again. To that end I have ordered yet another cheap cylinder (I screwed up the last one ) to modify, I will refit the best of my modified ones and also do an autopsy of the VAG one that I fitted about 2 months ago now I know what I am looking for and how to get them apart, which is not at all easy until you work out the trick.

It wont put the light out if that was the problem and you resolved it, only a fault code reader can do that as its a safety related issue.

I still have one of the boxes to hand (one old Yeti spring not broken or sagging), the Lesjofors part number is 4295088. Knowing that you are the guru on these things Carlston, what would you say the ride height of that should be compared to a standard on a 2006 Octavia TDi estate and also a 2015 2.0 TDi 4x4 Yeti Outdoor ? The Octavia was seriously jacked up, more than 15mm, the Yeti looks OK but its a Tonka Toy anyway!

I used the extra hard (rough road package) springs on my Octavia Estate, the ride and handling were not compromised but the rear sat a lot higher and put the towball well above the regulation height range. I was not concerned by the aesthetics but the person who I sold to was despite buying it specifically for towing. For me I could put a proper load in the back without it dragging its ar5e like a dog with worms! The new springs that I fitted to the Yeti were exactly the same part number & suffix.

I have enlarged the image until its unviewable and there is no indication of screws in the broken off lug, are you looking at the wrong part?

Looks like one of the plastic retaining lugs from the old cover that was ripped off, can you not see the same part on the new cover? It will need removing with long nose pliers.

The OP will not be able to extinguish the light by erasing the fault code if the fault is still present but for £19 its worth a try, beyond that he will need VCDS or similar to see where the fault lies, usually a seat connector, door loop wire fractured or airbag control module gone t1ts up.

8 letters, starts with B, end with T

That price is probably for alloys with the tyres still mounted, if your old tyres are going on the new alloys then you should get a lot more, that said I am years out of date on scrap metal prices but I still see doasyoulikeys beating alloy wheels with sledgehammers in the woods just before the metal recyling yard.

OK, understood, I was asking about diesel engines. All knowledge is relevant and welcome!

If you are religious and studious in your belt inspections you will see signs of degradation well before failure, I have even gone on a couple of years after first noting them before it was prudent to change the belt. My MK1 Octavia did 350000 miles with one belt change at 225000 miles, belt only, not pulleys, nor tensioner or water pump. The belt drive on the PD engine takes more of a hammering and I was more cautious with that although it having been changed at some time in the past I never needed to.

Thanks for that, I will print it out and profit from my insomnia, I have already learned a lot from scanning through the first part, there is a lot of clever tech in our engines. Now I know why my vehicle warms up quicker than preceeding TDi's and why the heater puts out heat so early. To Xman, the auxiliary electric water pumps definitely do not cool the turbo bearings, if one runs after shut off and if it circulated through the oil cooler then it would not do anything for the turbo unless there was an electric pump circulating said oil through the turbo bearings.