bigjohn

There are various "Blue tinge" halogen bulbs available such as Osram cool blue , Philips diamond vision, Bosch pure light etc...... At the moment LED replacements are illegal.

Is it worth changing the injector loom, it's a known fail as it has a hard life re heat and is sat in oil - and it's a cheap job. Especially when messing with the connector made a difference.

Ask a mkII owner considering a mkIII Superb can I ask owners of mkIII's who owned mkII's before are they worse than mkII Superbs re soundproofing?. I can't remember a soundproofing thread on the mkII forum.- might be wrong! I don't find my mkII noisy in any way especially the engine. At 70mph it's fantastic very little noise re wind, tyres, engine etc. The slight negative re mkII compared to my previous mkI Superb was "suspension" noise - ie hearing road bumps etc but it's pd engine was noisy at low speed - albeit fabulous. Another slight fly in the ointment with the mkII I find the interior fan slightly noisy.

Hmm - recent events in the UK https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/doctor-set-100000-payout-after-25204557

Yes to a point but lot's of stuff already CANbus etc on the mkI. A friend of mine had a mkII 2007 pd vrs and ven with a 30 mile each way commute he still had DPF issues - this was from new! - so if getting old I'd avoid!!!

The 1.9 is a fabulous engine, my neighbour has one in an Audi A4 and is approaching 400k miles! The 2.0 diesel changed from pd to CR engines around 2010. Both engines were good but early DPF implementations were poor with the pd engine - The pd vrs was an early adopter circa 2007 - avoid. Things much better on the CR diesel. Don't buy a car that has had a DPF delete - it's against the law to drive and will fail the MOT if spotted. With the scout you need to have the 4x4 checked - previous timely servicing essential. On an older car myself I'd avoid. Also buying at that age beware rust especially in engine subframe and check rear suspension. Rust can be a problem in the body at this age - especially sills, wheelarches , rear hatch. There are some good ones out there though. Also buying a diesel of that age you will find you'll be restricted where you can drive it especially in Europe but beware UK ULEZ schemes.

I think in Portugal you are not even allowed to own one. Austria it used to be illegal to have one in the car but I think things have relaxed a little. In many countries you have to be really careful what you do with footage. Please delete this link if not allowed:- https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/innovation-and-technology/dashboard-cameras-where-its-advisable-to-put-them-away/

Just be aware dash cams in some countries are illegal - especially Austria & Potugal.

Seats are an individual thing - I also have a poverty spec with cloth seats but I love them - me having a "big frame". What I can't cope with are the teeny modern highly bolstered seats fitted to many sporty cars these days. I think the leather seats in the Superb II have similar padding but you get a lot more electric adjustment. Re seat covers - you have to be careful not to obstruct seat air bags etc.

I've sort of ignored rust protection with modern galvanised cars especially when I've been driving large annual mileages commuting for a few decades and finding cars were mechanically cream crackered before any major body issues would bite me. Now I've sort of retired (thanks Covid!) it's back on my radar, Waxoyl is good stuff if applied correctly but the carrier is paraffin that seems to vanish and can leave blobs of Waxoyl sitting on top of crispy rust and it doesn't run well between seems into pits etc. It is also prone to being washed away if applied in areas that will be exposed to water etc afterwards. Back in the mists of times I've restored or repaired many a car - I remember working on a 1973 Volvo 144 that had been well looked after by it's previous owners but still developed rust holes at the rear of the sills near the rear wheel arches but inside the sill section. I wish I'd photographed the section of sill I cut out - it was a cross section of perfect sill at the top down to badly rusted (rust laminates!) at the bottom with a huge amount of blobby Waxoyl sitting above the rust laminates. Afterwards restoring other cars I had much more success "splattering in" Warm Waxoyl mixed with with clean engine oil which oozed and soaked into any remaining rust and seams and lasted the test of time. Latterly I've found Dinitrol works really well without the messing around - although I'm a fan of Owatrol oil on externally facing parts/panels.

Isn't that a worry? How are these being stored and cars don't like not being used.

You're not kidding, pulled back wheelarch liners today to have a look see and Houston.... Fortunately below that built-in garden it was just gleaming silver paint. I suspect if it had been left a couple of years that wouldn't have been the case. I can only presume the plenum chamber drains through this area - hence the leaves etc.. Before and after shots of one wheelarch, I decided Dinitrol was the poison of choice to protect and whilst I was at it treated boot lid(inc around numberplate lights), bonnet and door bottoms as well. Fortunately the only rust encountered was a small stone chip sorted with Kurust + touch-up brush.

Thanks, just looked on mine there is a good collection of leaves etc in this area although still looking rust free thus far. Time to remove front and rear wheel arch liners to clean out and treat with Owatrol etc Now I've started looking further - on my facelift there are no drain hoes along the sills - not good if you ever get water ingress anywhere. Likewise there are no drain holes on the bottom of the twin door. Except for suspension components my 2014 seems to be rust free - just wanting to keep it that way. With the car market as it is at the moment I might be in for the long hall with this one - oh and I rather like it. I didn't used to worry so much as my annual mileage was so high - times have changed.

Call out breakdown company to check? The high speed cranking over is a worry if it's faster than usual - to me that potentially shows less compression possibly due to bent valves if the cam belt has failed or slipped.

Today I noticed bad rust on a 2008 mkII Superb that I walked past - it was bubbling through the rear of the sill near to the front of the wheel arch. On checking my 2014 all looks OK as yet but I've noticed a gap in the wheel arch liner in that area which will allow crud to get in - I will now check it out and rustproof etc. I've also heard of potential rust issues around the rear number plate lights - again mine ok at the moment. I already clean out wheel arches and wipe in Owatrol oil annually and have treated suspension components with the same. My question is - as the mkII ages what are the future rust trouble areas that might be worth some preventative work to preserve?

Likewise water pump. If rad blocked or thermostat not opening the heater would still work presuming not low on coolant or air locked

Not fully sure with the mkIII Octavia but many RHD Skoda models have the air con condensate drain behind the clutch footrest.

Why not let your local garage source the brake parts?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Octavia-Petrol-Diesel-Service-Repair/dp/184425285X

How do you know re 1-2amps ? Is there a parasitic load? Might be worth checking connecting in an ammeter - remember it will initially have a load until things boot up, pumps whir etc - then settle down. Obviously don't try and start with an ammeter in circuit. Don't think your car has the usual culprit as it's the S model - as is mine! I'd expect a new battery to have covers on the terminals etc - my Yuasa did when it was changed earlier in the year. Have you ended up with someone's removed old battery somehow?

Haynes suggests you MIGHT have to loosen subframe mounting bolts to access the clamp bolts. It also mentions to mark the position of the subframe and anti roll bar(which way round and bush position). I never had to do it on my old mkI so I don't have any practical experience of the job.

What battery is currently fitted?

Seems to be a default money spinning answer these days - I'd start with a new battery and possibly a new mechanic. Other than a new battery my son has had no trouble at all with his 2016 1.2tsi - owned since 2019.

You may have a parasitic draw of some sort - any thing like dash cams plugged in? How do you know the battery is OK? Batteries on stop/start cars don't seem to last as long especially because of lockdown's etc. My son's miKIII battery only lasted 3 years from new. Will be EFB or AGM and will need coding.

Similar thread although you've already changed the switch:-