bigjohn

Cruise control may not work for all sorts of reasons including clutch and/or brake pedal sensors

Sachs I think? [EDIT]

The concentric clutch slave cylinder is notorious on many makes of cars inc some Honda's. It's a bit like a set of bellows around the gearbox input shaft with a release bearing on the end of it. I actively pick versions where possible with a simple piston/seal externally mounted clutch slave cylinder. Much more reliable and if it does fail it's a simple cheap job. On that note it's reminded me of another mkII problem with some diesel engined manual cars - the dreaded clutch pressure plate failure that can machine it's way through the gearbox casing inside the bellhousing - another thing to change on some versions.

Edit is available for Freedom subscribers Re Passenger seat - you'll have to offer the amp up for size - it's a common mount position for amps etc in many cars. The other place to checkout for size is in the side compartment of the estate boot.

Could be an indication of a faulty brake light switch! I mean why would you? Back in the day when driving stall prone carburettor cars setting off on steep hills I used to hold the car on the footbrake whilst giving it a bit of throttle when releasing the clutch. A benefit of having size 13/wide feet! No need on modern injection cars as the ECU compensates and as previously mentioned if brake pedal operation is detected then the ECU restricts throttle input.

Under the passenger seat seems a common location for such devices

The 1.4tsi EA111 engine was also fitted to my 2014 1.4 Superb II. I've had from 14 months old 14k miles and thus far it's been fabulous and is over 93k miles now:- It tugs my big bus along surprisingly well Low revved at speed - 60mph = about 2000rpm in sixth gear Has been averaging about 46mpg - I've seen over 50 mpg on some long runs. This may change a bit going forward as I no longer do my long commute (yay!) Oil consumption very low indeed It's very quiet The manual is fitted with an external clutch slave cylinder (reliable as well as easy to change - not that I've needed to) Water pump is separately driven Single Mass Flywheel No EGR valve - this function performed by control of the variable valve timing Since I've owned it, if left for a couple of days it's always had a very brief rattle on first start-up which has never got worse. Checked at the dealer at the time and deemed "normal". Note as it's a 2014 car this will have about the last version of the 1.4 EA111, by then the 1.4 Octavia was the mkIII which had the totally different EA211 NB - important the EA111 engine has regular oil changes and the correct oil filter must be fitted (mentioned elsewhere)

Lots of low voltage messages - is the battery ok? Might be relevant re N75 solenoid control etc. Vacuum pipes can cause issues as well - rigid pipes rub through with vibration, flexible pipes rot. It's sometimes not obvious.

The issue I will have in the future is not what would I change but what would I miss wen I get something else. Unlike some I love the twin door. I usually open as a hatch but use the boot opening when in restricted height areas such as ferry, Chunnel, multi-storey car parks etc. The passenger and boot space is something else and I find it amazingly comfortable. It suits my tall and ample frame (many cars don't) It's sooo refined - it's hard to even tell if stop/start has kicked in with the 1.4 Theoretically we should be downsizing to one car and a smaller one that Mrs BJ likes driving - I'm dreading it.

I don't know whether it's the angle of the glass on the twin door but water sort of "bobbles" and kind of rolls off as soon as you are in motion. Twindoor rear window has never seemed to get dirty with road muck in motion.

Good point - although I use "Rain X" on mine. Makes a huge difference.

I might revert to hand signals again At least it's easy to change the H7 headlight bulbs and on the facelift there is a little lever to flatten the beam for continental driving (remember that!!)

Bumper off/ headlights out job and a very strange bulb - where not LED. Fortunately I've not needed to do this yet!

The view out of the back window of the twindoor - oh and the design of the front indicator bulb fitment.

I'm 6ft 4" and had some issues with my Superb II when I first bought it (2015)- turned out there was too much adjustment for once. For the first time in my driving career I actually pulled the seat forward 1 notch and adjusted the steering wheel so it was further away. Now perfik. Re seats/driving position - everyone is different.

If sold from a dealer they are not allowed to say this so the law is on your side. You'd probably win in a small claims court. - as to whether you get any money back though is another matter. Before you consider replacing subframes / suspension etc check the condition of the rest of the body. Not much point fitting new subframes etc if what it attaches to is rotten. The good news is some can be great due to the original body tub galvanizing - subframes and suspension parts are not galvanised so they rot eventually. Check around rear suspension, sills, radiator as well. The other issue is when that rusty you'll probably encounter loads of bolts/nuts/fitments you can't easily undue. Any captive nuts/fitments can be a real show stopper if they shear off.

Is it the original battery on a 2015 stop/start car? If so it's probably near end of life - especially if it has been lightly used in lockdown etc. The original on my facelift 2014 Superb had to be replaced a few months ago - funnily enough after I left the sidelights on for a whilst diagnosing a troublesome rear number plate light. When the battery is near the end it has much less storage capacity. Replacement will have to be a EFB or AGM battery. NB I find running my car with the headlights on provokes it to charge. I can tell as I have a split charge relay to sometimes run a coolbox from the boot 12v socket.- and I can tell when it's not charging as it turns the coolbox off.

This happened to me just after I bought my Superb 1.4tsi. Filled up in Luxembourg with lovely cheap petrol and being from Yorkshire went past more than one click. Light popped up sometime later for a while, as per OP it went off after a few starts. It was checked out by a German Skoda dealer - always stop at first click now and it's never done it since.

Might still be worth popping in as fault should be stored. if fault doesn't recur after a few starts then light goes out. just checking - had you recently filled up with petrol when the light came on?

You need to measure fuel consumption over a few fill ups rather than just range as fuel gauge calibrations can vary. My 1.4tsi Skoda Superb mk II is supposed to have a 60l tank but usually never get much more than 50l in when I fill up. However measuring fuel consumption it's actually surprisingly good - not much worse than the 1.9 diesel Superb I had previously. Be careful overbrimming with petrol - it can do damage to the charcoal cannister. When I first bought my car I brimmed (multiple clicks) my tank in Luxembourg and a while later it displayed an engine management light. As I'd just bought it and it was under warranty I pulled into a German Skoda dealer that was really helpful - they thoroughly checked my car out and despite our clear language barrier got the message from them - "Von click - halte!". I now stop at one click and have never had an issue since. On a long journey driven carefully mine can average over 50mpg (5.65 l/100km) .

Which engine fitted? Hmm, did they bleed brakes and clutch? Something disturbed - eg bleed nipple? Is the mater cylinder reservoir still full? [EDIT] If clutch ok - engine mounts?

You could investigate a used engine - potentially more money after bad as they say...

How far did you drive with low oil pressure warning? if you ever get that it means stop immediately as without oil pressure you will start getting metal on metal wear of engine components usually starting with big ends. With that amount of debris in the sump I'd say major damage done. There is a chance that this could be some turbo bearing debris from the oil return. (Edit) Also wondering if the original fault wasn't the turbo and something catastrophic had failed with your engine causing the debris and low oil pressure - this in turn caused the turbo failure. I'm afraid stripdown etc probably required

My MkII Superb 1.4tsi stop/start works very well. You don't really notice it when you stop until you drop the clutch to set off and you hear a brief whir of the starter motor. It did have a hic-up last year when stop/start stopped working however it was in need of a new battery - suspect lockdown and cold weather contributed to this! If yours is stopping and then instantly restarting then something is not right. There is a complicated algorithm controlling stop/start including voltage, temperature, motion etc. I'd get it checked out.

Wiring issue?